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mabsoon

Any issues with C160 tiller (currently used on) working with a 520H (91)?

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mabsoon

Getting a C160 with a tiller, will I have issues with it working with the 520H (91)?

 

thanks

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JAinVA

mabsoon,

    From my experience I think it depends on soil condition.I till a garden with my c101 with a Kohler 12horse.We have worked this garden for over 25yrs and it tills easily.If you are tilling virgin soil you'll  find that the hydro trans allows some surging as the tines load and unload.If you are using the hydro to till an already established garden you should be fine.Most here seem to prefer a manual transmission for tiller duty but I wouldn't hesitate tilling my garden with the 520.JMHO,JAinVA

JimAnderson

Gloucester,Va

 

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Lost Pup

I have a 417-8 and 418 a. Used the tiller with both. Hard untilled soil just takes a few overlapping passes to complete. 

I do adjust the lift chain shackle a link or two as the soil is tilled allowing the tiller to go deeper with each pass. 

The tiller weight is enough after a pass or two to reach full depth. I then ammnd the soil with compost accross the top and

tilll again. 

 

I do prefer the 417-8 for tilling. The first gear low is just right speed for a good job. Again the hydro is fine just keep speed adjusting 

to the same slow crawl and its the same as the 417-8 with no clutch or h/l shift work. 

 

 

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russellmc301

my c-160 with tiller rips up virgin soil just fine.

you could just keep the tiller on c-160 and have a larger herd:D

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mabsoon

Would have to get the C160 running, and since tilling has to happen soon, that makes replacing a piston and who knows what else a back burner.

 

more to the point I was wondering if I was going to have issues connecting the tiller to the 520H.

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WH nut

No problem hooking to the 520 if you have the axle brackets ( Just take off 160)  The lift will be the only problem if the 520 isn't set up. I move my tiller around different tractors without the lift and it works pretty well. I control the depth with speed. Just engage PTO when Im ready to rip dirt. If you can get the 160 going in a little time I would use that. Low gear and low range is easier to control.

Edited by WH nut

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mabsoon

From what I know, piston is out and needs replaced. Motor is out of tractor and all parts are there.

 

Never having disassembled let alone assembled a motor, I think hooking up to my 520H is probably the way I am going on this.

 

But on that note, I do need to have someone (timing and lack of experience dictate) service my 520H before I get into this mowing/tilling season.

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mabsoon

Got the tractor Tuesday and it sounds like replacing the motor may be simpler than the piston (boring the cylinder, getting a NEW piston and possibly connecting rod). Or drop the motor in and hook it up. 

 

Any input on cost of a NEW piston to fit this? And I believe I would have to get it bored first? Or can I order a larger size and have them bore it to that?

 

Thanks for any help.

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WVHillbilly520H

I have tilled with my 520 plenty times only issue is the tiller "pushes" the tractor just have to "feather" the hydro drive lever and yes fresh virgin compacted/sodded soil isn't the best to try (it WILL throw a belt from bucking and jumping on hard soil) and till without first breaking it with a mold board or chisel plow but as mentioned above you really should have the rear (sleeve) hitch assembly cable and rockshaft installed to lift the tiller and the snow blade/tiller quick hitch on the rear axle from the C if you don't already have one, just my experiences on running a tiller on my 520,Jeff.

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mabsoon

Thanks all, this will be a pre-tilled garden (though that was 20 yrs ago) and I have to clear some (2 big 6-8" mulberry tree trunks and two 2" weed trees) out. Probably just cutting down the trunks this year and bypassing the big trees the best I can, I will pull the smaller tree roots out.

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312Hydro

I'd take a look under the seat pan of the 520h. Sometimes the cable tube is already there and with any luck you might find the rockshaft too. I've tilled my garden with the 312h without any problems for about 4'years now. Good luck with your garden!:handgestures-thumbupright::handgestures-thumbupright:

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mabsoon

Ok, so what would I be looking for?

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WVHillbilly520H

The cable tube (red metal not seen in first pic) should be along the fuel line and hydro dipstick and then the rockshaft sits in the hole on either side of the fender bracket next to the dipstick tube 1st pic also with the chain for a clevis hitch(second pic) ,Jeff.

IMAG2022.jpg

IMAG0392.jpg

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mabsoon

OLD POST HERE!

 

Thanks, will have to check that out when I get.a chance. I know I have a cable coming out the front side of the hydro with a long thin slotted u shaped bracket on it. It almost reaches a two holes bracket by the deck lifter bar.

 

i meant to reply this when you had posted yours. I forgot to hit submit. Sorry,

 

I don't see what you show in the pics. But here's what I have. 

Need to know am what I need to pull off and what I still might need.

 

Old post here!!! Just started to post a new and saw I had not published this one. Now the fact that I got no reaponse makes more sense :)

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mabsoon

UPDATE!!!

 

The garden is turned from Virgin ground. It did take some hydro lever manipulation, though I found it better to use the brake and only occasionally bump up the lever.

 

I did have a problem with one side of the attachment rod coming out when I lifted the tiller. This in turn usually threw the belt.

 

This shut me down the first time it happened because I put the belt back in the snow thrower groove and it kept throwing the belt right when I ingaged the PTO.

 

This was frustrating since I had tilled 1 1/2 passes and then ...

 

I figured it out when I did some revamping of the spring bolt and the lift connection (turnbuckle). When I went to put the belt on, I realized "I bet I was putting the belt back on that groove!".

 

Thanks again for all your help.

 

I will do another pass with some weight added to my tiller for depth and then back to the newly bladed (Oregan Gator blades) 60" deck. It's patiently waiting for me to try the chain me to the power pole so I can't push away when you try to drive over me. Pole located convieniantly next to my shed.

 

Ok no comments on that last paragraph!

 

Heee are some pics.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Edited by mabsoon
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WVHillbilly520H

Mabsoon, hey you did good and you got it accomplished, on the attachment "clamps" some guys use "lynch" pins to hold those closed or a small bolt through the hole or tighten them really tight where you can barely move them by hand, then where you have that turn buckle to lift the tiller I just use a small length of chain like in my pic for the clevis hitch and shorten when transporting lengthen while tilling and tilling depth is limited by the tiller itself (approximately 6") gearcase/ tine shaft added weight won't really help, turn over/mold board plow is for depth as well as a brinley spring tooth culivator still sold at Sears and such and towed/lifted by the clevis hitch assembly, the tiller just really mixes the soil up fine for an aerated garden bed, not knocking anything you done there's more than 1 way to do things just pointing out other hopefully helpful things ,Jeff.

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mabsoon

Thanks, in the end I didn't use weights. Figured I had tilled deep enough. I didn't have a chain as long as I think I needed. The one with the clevis hitch on my tractor is 3 links long. I will probably get a section the right length going forward but this was something I had so I tried it. 

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Got the 60" deck back on. Chaining it to the pole worked well.

 

It's mowing great and I set the height up a little bit. Didn't want to mow dirt with the new blades.

having just gotten the mower in Jan I had it a bit low to begin with, but any higher and the wheels constantly have contact with the ground. Gonna have to live with that.

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