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By Crazy Old Red Horse
Barn find 1975 D180. 608 original hours. Tractor and 48” belly mower look to be still in their original paint. Rear 60” finish mower looks like it has had one coat of new paint added at some point. Open to trades. Please email me with any questions or for additional photos. 35 miles north of Pittsbugh.
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By mkueb
I have an issue with my mid 1970's D160 garden tractor. Plowing snow over the weekend it begain to make an awful grinding sound come from what appears to be behind the motor. Once this happened, all the hydraulic stop working and the forward reverse lever seem to be stuck in the middle position. I shut down the tractor and was able to release the value on the pump and tow the tractor back into the garage. When towing it back to the garage, I noticed the rear wheel where moving ok (with the release valve open) In the garage, the forward / reverse lever will move back and forth. I did attempt to restart the tractor again without any luck. The sound seemed to be the same.
I am speculating that I have a pump issue on the hydrostatic drive. It' not the spline coupler with I know can spin out. I did have this happen about 10years ago and at that time, I removed the pump and had shop replace the shaft. This time, the shaft is definetly spinning the pump making a sound that I can only describe as a high pitch grind combine with what sounds like gravel rolling around inside of the a barrell.
Does anybody out there have any advise? Is there any checks that I can do to make sure it is the pump? I friend has suggest lifting up the rear end and seeing if the wheels spin in opposite directions by hand (with our without valve closed?) Is it possible that I may have damage something in the rear end? I did notice after replacing the spline on the pump 10 years ago, the tractor would still roll backwards with the value closed and the tractor not running. I was not concerned at the time the tractor seem to move fine forward and reverse.
I do use the tractor for many task. I have the rotor tiller, snowblower, deck, category 0 connection with back blade. It's a nice little tractor and I would like to keep it running. It has the Onan 16hp engine which I have only had to rebuild the carb back about 10years ago due to some lugging issues. For the most part, engine is good burns a little oil (I change it every month in the summertime), and runs best on 90 REC gas.
If anybody has any recommendation for how to troubleshoot the most recent problem, veryify it's the pump, rule out any other possilbe rear-end damage, and possible recommend next steps, I would be greatly appreciative. Thanks Marc (FYI, I live in Western Michigan between Grand Rapids and Kalamazoo).
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By Petes Horse
Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering.
This may also explain the oddball rim.
Bottom race. Or is it races now?
-----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!----------------------------------------
So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close.
Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off.
Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly.
The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup.
Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down.
Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new.
The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one.
End view with bearing installed.
To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side.
It's only .030 so not to bad.
Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm.
Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered.
No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out.
End cap with both bearings installed.
Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit.
The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm.
The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual.
I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it.
I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway.
Welp, back to painting parts.......
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By Petes Horse
I've been looking for a while. The bolt holes just line up and the wire is a little tight between the fender and light. No drilling though.
They were at Rural King. I think about three bucks each. Optronics MC42RS RED Marker/Clearance.
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By 1977.d-160
Hi again all,
I was using my D160 to till some hard packed earth (first till) and it was working OK, not great, just OK. First pass, was about an inch and a half, two inches at max. The tiller would work, then stall and I'd have to lift the hydro to get it spinning again. I did this a few times then the engine stalled and the starter would not strike. The lights still worked and I could hear the elec PTO clutch 'click' when I threw the switch on/off. I thought maybe I smoked the ignition switch, but I went out the next day and it fired right up. I tried tilling a little more and same thing happened.
What am I doing wrong? Is there a thermal protection ckt or something that's causing this? How can I till w/o overloading it?
I've read in my 520H manual that you need to run the engine at full throttle otherwise you risk damaging the trans. I assume that's true for the D160 as well? When tilling at full throttle the tiller is really crankin'. So ideally I could run the engine at about 1/2-2/3 throttle in order to slow down the tiller.
Looking forward to the group's thoughts, feedback, opinions, advice so that I can till my plot!
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
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