semper5 43 #1 Posted April 3, 2016 I keep blowing the 25 amp fuses at the ammeter. Can I remove the ammeter? I'm having problems locating a shorting wire, but haven't given up hope in finding it. Has this been an issue for anyone else? Please bear in mind, I'm unexperienced in troubleshooting WheelHorses. I usually just feed them and they go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,680 #2 Posted April 3, 2016 Need to take a look at the wire and components beyond the 25 amp fuse to see what loos suspect. Tell us what model you are working on so we can have a better idea and post a wiring diagram for you to look at. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,925 #3 Posted April 3, 2016 If the fuse is blowing without turning the key on, could be a chafed power feed right from the battery or even the ammeter itself. If it only blows after the key is on look for a shorted wire from the switch on out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,897 #4 Posted April 3, 2016 Ammeter can be removed from the circuit. Just hook the two wires together and wrap a piece of tape around them. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,498 #5 Posted April 3, 2016 Wiring diagrams Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,680 #6 Posted April 4, 2016 Rather than blowing a bunch more fuses put a test light across the empty fuse holder. As long as the short circuit is present the light will be illuminated, when you remove the short the light will go out. could be anyplace from the solenoid to the ignition switch, so check everything carefully. Good hunting. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
semper5 43 #7 Posted April 4, 2016 14 hours ago, 953 nut said: Need to take a look at the wire and components beyond the 25 amp fuse to see what loos suspect. Tell us what model you are working on so we can have a better idea and post a wiring diagram for you to look at. Yes sir, should have thought of including the model... C145. All safety switches were modded so they affect nothing prior to me owning it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,680 #8 Posted April 4, 2016 You need to give us the information Mike @squonk asked for. Is the fuse blowing with the key off? If that is the case it is between the fuse holder and the ignition switch, probably a loose or bent terminal getting against ground or a frayed wire. If with key on, what position (positions)? Use the test light as stated earlier. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
semper5 43 #9 Posted April 6, 2016 Work has kept me out of the garage, I appreciate your help, maybe this weekend I will be able to look again. Last I checked, fuse would blow as soon as I turn the key. But I didn't differentiate if it was a turn of the key, or engagement of the starter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,680 #10 Posted April 6, 2016 8 hours ago, semper5 said: fuse would blow as soon as I turn the key. Good deal; that means that everything on the first page that Garry sent you is good and eliminates a couple of things. When you do your testing use the test light where the fuse would be. As stated before, with the short present the light will be illuminated, when it clears the light will go out. Presuming things have all been functioning normally prior to this problem it could just be a chafed wire going to ground or a terminal that came off and is grounded. Inspect everything closely first, you can probably find the problem visually. In the upper right corner of each page is a list of what connects to what in various key positions. This could help determine where the short circuit is. It is probably not in the lighting group as there is a separate fuse for them. Happy hunting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
semper5 43 #11 Posted April 10, 2016 Yesterday I left work early, and played with wires. I discovered that the battery cables were not tightly connected into the crimp-on ring-terminal. So I replaced both of those. I also realized the positive lead to the ignition coil was chaffed and allowing a slight spark onto the engine shroud. So I replaced that with 12 gauge wiring. Fired right up and stayed there. Onto the next issue... not of electrical issues. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarrellF 33 #12 Posted September 7, 2017 Having the same problem on a D200 think it might be the ammeter 😕 Funny they didn't put a fuse on the ammeter side I'm going to install one to keep from melting wires grrr. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites