Tool box for an 18 Automatic, D-160, D-180 or D-200

["D"- Man 827]

Starting to build a tool box for my 18 Automatic resto-mod.  I have cut some used rear channels, to form the front and back sides, and two half channel pieces to form the left and right side pieces.  I could have used two fender supports for the bottom plate, and the hinge attachment strip, {by simply having them welded together, cut to fit and fill the tank holes} but instead I just bought some sheet metal that was close to the right gauge. I still need to have a hole or two filled, and a lid cut, bent and welded. I will then be using two buckles from the tins of a Kohler K482 for keeping the lid closed.  I have ordered some hinges and hope to have them here this week.  Finally, after primer and paint, I would ultimately like to find some rubber mat material close to the original footrest pads to line the inside, and a knob from a grill to lift the lid.  As a finishing touch I may see how some edge-trim {like what is used on the tank sides and dash} would look. This addition of a toolbox will require elevating the gas tank as well as placing it in a more forward posision, so that a portion of the tool box can be tucked under the tank. I haven't got it all sorted out just yet, but may need to add the elongated "U" shaped seat springs to raise the seat in order to allow a bit more clearance for the tank.

 

Here are some pics of my progress so far.  I should have removed the wooden strip before taking the pictures.

Edited March 14, 2016 by 23 Automatic LSE

["D"- Man 827]

Just spoke with the gentleman at the sheet metal shop, he should have the lid ready for pick-up tomorrow, cut, 1/2" bent down for the sides and front and welded.

[bitten 133]

Looks like a great idea. For my D200 I used a metal tool box and some magnets to hold it on the fender.

["D"- Man 827]

Thanks Bitten, I have seen a couple others "D"s with tool boxes pictured on here, and I hope to be able to have this one look close to something like what Wheel Horse would have, should have or could have done.

["D"- Man 827]

Sheet metal shop did not have lid made.  This was a good thing because I gave them the wrong measurements the first time, but now I have let them know the correct measurements.  It should be done after work today.

["D"- Man 827]

Picked up lid, edges were not bent over to the 1/2" that I wanted but close enough will have to due.  Corners were not welded as promised, so I may just take this to a welder and have him weld them.  Next I am getting the buckle pieces ready for welding.  

[bitten 133]

Please keep us posted.

["D"- Man 827]

Took the cover to my welder, had the corners welded.  Turned out real nice after a bit of sanding, not perfect, but very acceptable.  Also received the two hinges today {no pics of hinges yet} just a picture of the welded and sanded corner.

 

Edited March 18, 2016 by 23 Automatic LSE
pics.

["D"- Man 827]

Drilled the hole for the knob, also drilled some holes for welding the buckle latches to the cover.  Buckle components were from a 43 year old K482 Kohler engine's tins, and we're quite pitted from rust.  After sanding, these two pieces were pretty thin.

Knob, in picture, is a used knob from a grill; however, I will be using a N.O.S. knob on the cover.  Will be taking these latches to the welder to see if he can weld them from the backside of the cover.

P.S. Last picture shows latches leaning against cover, but not yet welded.

Edited March 20, 2016 by 23 Automatic LSE

["D"- Man 827]

Took cover and latch pieces to get welded, hope they turn out right.  I should be able to pic up cover tomorrow.

Edited March 23, 2016 by 23 Automatic LSE
Duplicate delete.

["D"- Man 827]

Picked up cover today.  Had to tweek up one of the latches as it was off level, and the weld bled through.  Began trying to sort out the hinges.  Any preferences or suggestions welcome.  One concern is to have it be water proof.

["D"- Man 827]

I had a go at disassembling the hinges, in order to find out if I could get the cosmetic parts plated. This was a success in part, as I ruined a couple pieces. I have more on order, with the intent of a more careful and knowledgeable disassembly, this time. I am leaning on the "Both halves above" method as a necessity in order to make the water-proof endeavour more of a simpler approach. Current plan is to cut a piece of flat rubber {with adhesive backing} to surround the toolbox top perimeter area. This should act as a seal against the underside of the cover, when closed. P.S. I have taken the cover to the... are you ready for this? ...chrome plating shop! Yep, chrome cover and hinges, but at a cost, 6-8 weeks out till complete. Oh well, I'm sure I will find something else to do in the mean time.     

 

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["D"- Man 827]

Received the cover back from the chrome shop, they had to rework it twice since the area around the hinge was not correct.  The third time chroming, they were sort of like enough is enough.  It is a really nice chrome finish where it turned out good, but if you know the "bleedthrough" area is there it is fairly easy to see.  

 

On a side note, when I picked up the parts, there were several items missing.  They said I picked them up, the first time I was there.  I didn't, I am  going back to pick up the last reworked parts, if they still claim they don't have them I don't know what I will do.  I am estimating the total cost to be about $250.00-$300.00 {this includes cost for chrome plating.}

Here is a picture of the cover with the hinges welded on and plated. 

 

Edited September 4, 2016 by 23 Automatic LSE

["D"- Man 827]

Had a go at cutting a section of the left and right side panels from my parts tractor, to be used as welded on extensions for support to the tool box. I am also considering extending the fender supports as well for a bit more support. Received the panels back from the welder but did not take any pics of the cut-off sections prior to sending them out. You can sort of see from the pics, the area that was added on. I failed to instruct the welder to fill in the extra holes as these will not be needed. I still need to sand the color coat and do a final spray on both panels. The rear end cut geometry is necessary due to allowing for clearance of the three point hitch, when in its fully upright position. Pics are a bit grainy as I did not use flash due to reflections.

[19richie66 16,942]

Nice work!