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Phatboy

Onan P220 for 520 oil drain plug was modifyied need help please..

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Phatboy

Ok guys the oil and grime mess ws caise by a poorly designed oil drain extention,, it is lose in the block and causing a leak,, so can some one please show me a picture of the proper way to make this extention ,, or how to fix this one so it stays tight and doesnt leak,, it had oil and grim all over the block it was a dam mess ,, i hate how hard it is also to remove the shroud,,, i really need to know how to properly extend this,, thanks guy ,, dont know how id tackle this project with out your help... Sorry no matter what i do pic for drain is upside down,,,

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Edited by Phatboy

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Phatboy

I hope picture is right way up thos time

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JAinVA

 If the nipple is leaking at the block you need to remove all but that nipple and tighten it back up.I would not use any teflon tape or ribbon dope there.You can pull that nipple and clean the block threads(brake parts cleaner) and the nipple thread.You can apply what a lot of older timers used for pipe sealant,just plain old enamel paint brushed onto the male threads What you have looks stock to me.What was modified?Luck,JAinVA

Edited by JAinVA

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Phatboy

Is that stock ?? I have seen so many different versions i have no idea,, i just went and tried to take end piece off so i could get the nipple out of the block and it wont turn,, now im worried about screwing up the treads in the block trying to get that apart... I should of just dropped it off at my local dealer this is really getting me upset...

Edited by Phatboy

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JAinVA

I have 3 Onans,2 216 and a 220.They all have that setup.Is the nipple leaking at the block? If that is the case and you can't remove it then you have three choices.You can replace the crankcase,live with the leak or clean the area around nipple/block and apply JB weld.There is almost no pressure there so it might stop the leak.JAinVA

JimAnderson

Glucester,Va

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Phatboy
1 hour ago, JAinVA said:

I have 3 Onans,2 216 and a 220.They all have that setup.Is the nipple leaking at the block? If that is the case and you can't remove it then you have three choices.You can replace the crankcase,live with the leak or clean the area around nipple/block and apply JB weld.There is almost no pressure there so it might stop the leak.JAinVA

JimAnderson

Glucester,Va

Yes it is leaking at the block,, the end piece of pipe is the piece of pipe that wont unscrew where the plug is and im affraid by putting to much pressure on it might screw up the threads in the block,, im going to have my local kubota/ wheel horse dealer come get it and fix it,, before i cause damage,, boy i tell ya one thing i love this 520,, but my 310 was a hell of alot easier to work on i hate the design of this engine, and pooly designed oil drain is a prime example..

Edited by Phatboy

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JAinVA

If think you hate that engine now you may want to consider that as part of routine maintenance the heads need to be decarboned and the valves need to be adjusted much

more often than a Kohler.If changing the oil is a challenge, think about all the tins that need to be removed to do regular maintenance.You may wish you kept the 310.

The things I have pointed out will need to be done to keep the Onan alive and if you don't do it the dealer will love you.If you mow with a 520 you will need to make sure the rear cooling fins are kept free of debris.If you don't do that religously then the rear valve seat gets loose and the dealer will really love you.Don't take my word for this because

these things have been discussed many times on this forum.I have modified my belt guard like many here to increase air flow over the rear cylinder and I don't use the Onans for mowing. Luck,JAinVA

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cheesegrader

Relax.  Have a cold adult beverege.

New to you tractors are always full of gremlins.

You will love the 520 once you get used to it, and it gets some needed care.

That drain looks like stock to me, too.

I have not had the pleasure of an oil leak at the pan (yet), but I doubt it will be an expensive fix.

You are doing a great job catching up on a neglected horse.

 

 

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ericj

you have to back hold the nipple to get the cap off it's not that difficult. i have loosened the motor and turned it for easier access. i use soft set pipe dope the yellow stuff, works great . good luck

 

 

 

 

eric j 

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Phatboy
38 minutes ago, ericj said:

you have to back hold the nipple to get the cap off it's not that difficult. i have loosened the motor and turned it for easier access. i use soft set pipe dope the yellow stuff, works great . good luck

 

 

 

 

eric j 

I got the cap off and changed the oil yesterday ,, that was easy, i noticed grime around the block and a few of the guys suggested to take shrowd off and clean behind it,, so i did ,, the problem is that the part that screws in to the block for oil drain is very loose and i cant tighten it cause the piece that is at the other end of the nipple wont come off so i can turn and tighen the part that goes in The block...that is the problem,, i checked all the bolts on the engine all tight ,, the back of the flywheel does not have any oil on it,, but below it on the block did and all around the back side and pto side did also,, there was even oil grime on the muffler bracket so the only loose thing that i could find that was loose is the drain tube so i have to start there,, so all that being said once the dealer gets it all straight  and fixed i am very diligent as far as keeping thing s the way they are supposed to be,, it be well maitained after that,, ill have time to learn what i need to, to do it the right way...and be able to do what is nessasary,, but i have not had it but 2 days and is why i wanted one that was perfect as can be expected so i would have time to learn..well even with only 400 hours on it ,, it still has a cpl of issues... As to why i came to you guys for help...

Edited by Phatboy

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Theroundhousernr

I have learned over the years of playing with tractors and many other hobbies. Perfect is very hard to acheive or find and one can go crazy over it. Sometimes the cream of the crop paint wise have mechanical issues to be dealt with and others that look abused turn out to be mechanically sound. Its a toss up and perfect should be left for the trailer queens.

    

  If you are not comfortable with the repair , taking it to a reputable mechanic is a wise choice. In my opinion, once you learn to pull that engine, it makes working on the onan ten fold easier. I can pull an engine off a 520H in about fiften, twenty minutes. Then its up on the bench and smooth sailing. Fighting that darn thing on the tractor, forget it.

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Phatboy
1 hour ago, Theroundhousernr said:

I have learned over the years of playing with tractors and many other hobbies. Perfect is very hard to acheive or find and one can go crazy over it. Sometimes the cream of the crop paint wise have mechanical issues to be dealt with and others that look abused turn out to be mechanically sound. Its a toss up and perfect should be left for the trailer queens.

    

  If you are not comfortable with the repair , taking it to a reputable mechanic is a wise choice. In my opinion, once you learn to pull that engine, it makes working on the onan ten fold easier. I can pull an engine off a 520H in about fiften, twenty minutes. Then its up on the bench and smooth sailing. Fighting that darn thing on the tractor, forget it.

Thanks buddy ,, yea i wasnt expecting to find this and garage is literally full with 2 tractors and xmas decoration boxes all over and lawn furnature,, i was simply un prepared for all this , bit i will be prepared for it all next time i hope and more organized and knowlegeable,, i have had my 310-8 for 15 years and always loved them,, but only in the last year habe really taken ot on as a full time hobbie and passion,,, i have alot to learn i mean lots!!! Lol but thanks to all my friends here ,,,,, i think ill manage lol ,,

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Martin
8 hours ago, Phatboy said:

Yes it is leaking at the block,, the end piece of pipe is the piece of pipe that wont unscrew where the plug is and im affraid by putting to much pressure on it might screw up the threads in the block,, im going to have my local kubota/ wheel horse dealer come get it and fix it,, before i cause damage,, boy i tell ya one thing i love this 520,, but my 310 was a hell of alot easier to work on i hate the design of this engine, and pooly designed oil drain is a prime example..

 

That drain design has been used on many models since the 60s so it is not a design that is just limited to the 520 or Onan in general. I agree it is not the best design and looks ugly with all the fittings. The easiest way to deal with this (something that you can fix yourself, very easily) is to remove the drain pipes (nipples) and elbow, piece by piece and seal it as you reinstall. First, drain the oil from the engine. Next, you will have to deal with the 4 engine pan bolts that attach the engine to the plate on tractor frame, loosen the front ones until the nuts are flush with the ends of the bolts, take the rear ones out all together.  Now raise the rear of the engine and place a wedge of wood or similar block of something under the pan to provide just enough clearance to get that elbow to rotate without hitting the plate. Now remove all of the drain pipe components, piece by piece. Clean old thread sealant from pipes and oil pan. Check threads for any damage or stripped condition. Hopefully over the years the nipple that threads into the engine pan hasn't been tightened so much as to damage the oil pan. The two pipe nipples are easily bought new if they need replacing as is the elbow and cap. Most times all that is needed is to clean the threads and reinstall piece by piece using thread sealant that is oil resistant. More than half of my horses (from the 1965 875 right up to the 1995 416s) have been purchased with this design of drain leaking. The biggest problem with the Onan engine is that it is aluminum, the pipes come loose more often than the cast iron pans of the Kohlers. With the aluminum though, the threads are more susceptible to loosening and damage. 

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lynnmor

I replace the nipple going into the block with a new one so that I have fresh threads.  If it has been operated with the nipple being loose, the threads will be "polished" and would have to be given a full turn to tighten.  That full turn would probably be way too much risking a crack in the aluminum.  When installing the new nipple, I clean the threads COMPLETELY with the tractor raised in the rear to prevent oil drips.  I use red high strength thread locker on the clean threads.

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Bow_Extreme

This is a common problem with Onan Engines.  It's no big deal.  I find it easiest to remove the 4 engine mounting bolts so the engine is free to move.  I always disconnect the drive belt and remove the drive belt cover.  Drain the engine oil first and slightly tip the motor to drain out enough oil that it doesnt leak out when you remove the nipple pipe.  I use a fairly expensive high pressure sealant that is stable in oil and gas areas and coat the threads.  This sealant can be bought nearly anywhere including Lowes.  Once coated, thread that nipple back in and tighten it up.  Do not over tighten!!  Once the sealant sets up that nipple is not going anywhere.  These engines are not mounted to rubber bushings so the vibration in the motor tends to loosen these oil drain pipes up.  

 

If you want, you can also buy a quarter turn valve from the Toro dealer for $25 and screw that on there.  Then you attach a hose when you want to change the oil, turn the valve and your oil will drain.

 

 

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Phatboy

All fixed now ,, took engine bolts out and lifted up and spun off old nipples ,, amd went to lowes and got new with a shut off valve for changing oil red one to lol.   But dealer said it was gonna be 2 weeks to get it in so i just saod screw it ,, called my brother and we knocked ot out , all done and shinny again..

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ericj

i would put a plug in that valve just so it doesn't get accidentally knocked open, cause that would just be my luck, glad you were able to do it yourself, not really that big of a deal, now that you were able to do this, you might be able to something bigger next time. good for you

 

 

 

 

 

eric j   

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WNYPCRepair
57 minutes ago, ericj said:

i would put a plug in that valve just so it doesn't get accidentally knocked open, cause that would just be my luck, glad you were able to do it yourself, not really that big of a deal, now that you were able to do this, you might be able to something bigger next time. good for you

 

 

eric j   

 

 

:text-yeahthat:  sounds like good advice.

 

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