JPWH 5,277 #101 Posted March 14, 2016 1 hour ago, WNYPCRepair said: Does anyone have a source for large washers? I need some with a 1" hole, and some with a 3/4" hole How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #102 Posted March 14, 2016 14 minutes ago, Hank01 said: How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some. Oh, I need a bunch. at least 2 dozen, maybe more. I've searched online but haven't found any by Googling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JPWH 5,277 #103 Posted March 15, 2016 2 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said: Does anyone have a source for large washers? I need some with a 1" hole, and some with a 3/4" hole How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some. I'll check tomorrow and see how many I can come up with. You can search for anchor bolt nuts and washers as well sighn and light pole hardware suppliers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #104 Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) 44 minutes ago, Hank01 said: How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some. I'll check tomorrow and see how many I can come up with. You can search for anchor bolt nuts and washers as well sighn and light pole hardware suppliers. I found them at bolt depot at a reasonable price. Thanks, I appreciate the offer, but I will just order a box of each I found them on Amazon and eBay before, but they were outrageously priced. I just got a box of 25 1" and a box of 50 3/4 inch for $18 plus shipping Edited March 15, 2016 by WNYPCRepair 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #105 Posted March 16, 2016 (edited) So, I spent the entire day building a pump mount. Not having the laser cut pieces to make a front mount, I did the next best thing. I bought a brand new mule drive from a member here (he can name himself if he wants, and another thank you to him), stripped all the mule drive parts out of it, and made a mount for the pump that fit inside the mule drive. I was quite proud of it, I used the bolt holes on the side, and it was adjustable for the backward tilt of the xi engine. Got it all lined up perfectly, was just about to drill the holes for the pump mount, and realized I didn't plan for any way to tighten the belt. Argh!!! I'll probably be laying awake tonight thinking about how to do it. Oh, to clarify, I didn't use the new mule drive, I used the one off the New Holland, since the PO didn't do any PM, I figured it was in the worst shape of the 3. Edited March 16, 2016 by WNYPCRepair 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #106 Posted March 16, 2016 1 hour ago, WNYPCRepair said: So, I spent the entire day building a pump mount. Not having the laser cut pieces to make a front mount, I did the next best thing. I bought a brand new mule drive from a member here (he can name himself if he wants, and another thank you to him), stripped all the mule drive parts out of it, and made a mount for the pump that fit inside the mule drive. I was quite proud of it, I used the bolt holes on the side, and it was adjustable for the backward tilt of the xi engine. Got it all lined up perfectly, was just about to drill the holes for the pump mount, and realized I didn't plan for any way to tighten the belt. Argh!!! I'll probably be laying awake tonight thinking about how to do it. Oh, to clarify, I didn't use the new mule drive, I used the one off the New Holland, since the PO didn't do any PM, I figured it was in the worst shape of the 3. Too funny. That's what I was going to do before I decided on getting mine laser cut with the rest of the parts. I think I found just the mule frame on parts tree for like $85. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #107 Posted March 16, 2016 Well I think I have the pump mount sorted out. need a longer belt to be sure. It appears I am an inch or two short Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #108 Posted March 16, 2016 Looks like it will work. In case your pump isn't labeled for input/output for a given rotation direction, here is a generic cutaway photo: I was embarrassed to mention my build thread that I had hooked up my pump backwards when I first plumbed it and filled the res. I could see the gears on my pump through the ports but I was visualizing the fluid flow incorrectly for the given rotation. It was a bit of a "duhhhhhhh" moment for me. ha-ha 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #109 Posted March 16, 2016 My pump is bi-directional, and there were instructions for which is in and out on the website. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #110 Posted March 17, 2016 Yeah most are bi-directional. Mine is too. I just was visualizing wrong how the pump moves the fluid when I first mounted it up. I didn't have a diagram showing the in/out location for a clockwise-facing-the-pump-shaft installation. I thought it pushed it through between the teeth, not around the outside of the pump housing. That's why I had to flip my connections 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #111 Posted March 17, 2016 Woo Hoo! Bucket is finished, and looks great! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #112 Posted March 17, 2016 Test fit of the boom arms, now that I have the bucket. I have to shorten them about 3 inches for each part, so the bucket isn't so far out in front of the tractor. I have an issue though. I bought bushing stock, drilled the arms, cut the bushing stock (1" OD, 3/4" ID) drilled the bushing for a grease fitting, and ordered grease fittings. Got them today, and the grease fittings protrude into the inside of the bushing. Can't grind the ends of the fittings off or the ball and spring will fall out. I'm not sure what to do now. Do I use the bushings with no way to grease them, and just replace them as they wear? The stock isn't expensive. Or is there a special grease fitting that will fit 1/8" thick material? It doesn't really matter at the ends of the cylinders, the cylinders have grease fittings, so I just skip the bushing, but at the top and bottom pivot points of the arm, there is no way I can think of to grease the pins. Ideas? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #113 Posted March 17, 2016 18 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: Test fit of the boom arms, now that I have the bucket. I have to shorten them about 3 inches for each part, so the bucket isn't so far out in front of the tractor. I have an issue though. I bought bushing stock, drilled the arms, cut the bushing stock (1" OD, 3/4" ID) drilled the bushing for a grease fitting, and ordered grease fittings. Got them today, and the grease fittings protrude into the inside of the bushing. Can't grind the ends of the fittings off or the ball and spring will fall out. I'm not sure what to do now. Do I use the bushings with no way to grease them, and just replace them as they wear? The stock isn't expensive. Or is there a special grease fitting that will fit 1/8" thick material? It doesn't really matter at the ends of the cylinders, the cylinders have grease fittings, so I just skip the bushing, but at the top and bottom pivot points of the arm, there is no way I can think of to grease the pins. Ideas? Buy some new grease zerks that are threaded 1/4-20 (if yours aren't already) Then weld a 1/4-20 nut over the hole you drilled in the bushings. Install the zerk into the nut. I did that a while back on my snowmobile suspension when the wall thickness was too thin to allow a threaded zerk. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #114 Posted March 17, 2016 15 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said: Buy some new grease zerks that are threaded 1/4-20 (if yours aren't already) Then weld a 1/4-20 nut over the hole you drilled in the bushings. Install the zerk into the nut. I did that a while back on my snowmobile suspension when the wall thickness was too thin to allow a threaded zerk. Cool! I knew someone would have an answer. I have a whole box of fittings now but they are 1/4-28. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #115 Posted March 17, 2016 26 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: Cool! I knew someone would have an answer. I have a whole box of fittings now but they are 1/4-28. Ah well just get some 1/4-28 nuts 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #116 Posted March 17, 2016 6 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said: Ah well just get some 1/4-28 nuts I was going to search for them, wasn't sure if that was a common thread or not Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #117 Posted March 17, 2016 13 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said: I was going to search for them, wasn't sure if that was a common thread or not I remember when I did my snowmobile up, the 1/4-20 zerks were in the bins at ace hardware. Like $1.50 a piece 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,980 #118 Posted March 18, 2016 My Ark loader has the zerks in the end of the pin. When I bought it the PO must have lost one of the pins and had a 5/8 bolt in the one end which I couldn`t grease. So I cut the head off the bolt and drilled a 1/8 hole in the end to the depth of the center of the sleeve and another in the side to meet it. Then drilled the hole larger in the end to accept the zerk. Can`t tell one from another. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #119 Posted March 18, 2016 I remember having this problem when I added zerk fittings to the pedals on my C141 (they did not come with zerks back in1978). I think I remember going back to the hardware store and getting ones with shorter threads. Although, even the shorter ones would protrude into the bushing area on your application. Welding on a nut is a good low cost solution. Backyard mechanics always come up with creative solutions. Another entry for my WH "tip book" 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #120 Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) Here's how they turned out on a snowmobile application after powder coating: Edited March 18, 2016 by Snowmobileaddict 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #121 Posted March 18, 2016 (edited) 2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said: Here's how they turned out on a snowmobile application after powder coating: Looks great. The only problem is, mine are down inside the boom arms. Tried twice, had to cut the bushings out because the screw was stuck. So I tried the other route @roadapples suggested, worked pretty well, though I need a V Block and a better drill press. Made some real progress today. Got both boom arms welded up and test fitted, one pin done with grease zerk, and checked the cylinder for fit. My bead, just for Dennis Edited March 18, 2016 by WNYPCRepair 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #122 Posted March 25, 2016 I finally got a few hours today to work on this. I am paying now for the time I took off to work on this at the beginning of the month. I've been swamped with work, and my grandson was visiting last weekend, so it has been sitting for a week. Worked on getting the bushings installed in the boom arms, drilling pins and fitting with grease perks, welding on the mounting tabs to the pedestals for the cylinders to attach to. Next is mounting the bucket, installing the cross beam on the boom arms up front, and installing the front angle braces. Then I will be able to mount the cylinders, and get hoses made. I am debating just using the rubber hoses all the way, rather than using the steel lines in between. Still deciding on that. One concern I have is the amount of fluid the pedestal will hold. The PF Engineering plans call for as much fluid as the pump will move in a minute, which would be 4 to 8 GPM in my case. No way that pedestal will hold more than a gallon and a half, by my estimate. Hopefully it will be enough. If not, I will either have to add an external tank, or use the other pedestal as an additional reservoir 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowmobileaddict 403 #123 Posted March 26, 2016 For reference...Total hydraulic system, with reservoir full on my kwikway, with added filter housing was just under a complete 2-gallon jug of hydraulic oil. The kwikway pump is similar range output to the PF pump. That's a design that kwikway used for decades too. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #124 Posted March 26, 2016 5 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said: For reference...Total hydraulic system, with reservoir full on my kwikway, with added filter housing was just under a complete 2-gallon jug of hydraulic oil. The kwikway pump is similar range output to the PF pump. That's a design that kwikway used for decades too. Good news. I was kind of worrying about that, but I thought the same thing, my reservoir is the same size as yours, so I should be OK. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WNYPCRepair 1,875 #125 Posted March 26, 2016 Made the bucket mounting flanges today. Found out one of the boom arms has a small twist (1/8") so the flanges are not perfectly straight. Tacked the flanges on and will try it as is. If it is too much, the only way I see to fix it is to cut the weld apart and re-weld the boom arm, which I do not want to do. I don't think it will make enough of a difference to matter. Made the angle brace brackets and mounted them to the tractor. Made the last pin that needed drilling for a grease zerk, and still have all my fingers. The V block definitely helped, I did one just in a vice and it scared the carp outta me, thought for sure something was going to go flying. I'll be watching CL for a good drill press, the one from HF is junk. Also test fitted the cylinders again. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites