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WNYPCRepair

522xi front end loader build.

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JPWH
1 hour ago, WNYPCRepair said:

Does anyone have a source for large washers? I need some with a 1" hole, and some with a 3/4" hole

 

 

How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some.

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WNYPCRepair
14 minutes ago, Hank01 said:

How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some.

 

 

Oh, I need a bunch. at least 2 dozen, maybe more. I've searched online but haven't found any by Googling. 

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JPWH
2 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said:

Does anyone have a source for large washers? I need some with a 1" hole, and some with a 3/4" hole

 

 

How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some. I'll check tomorrow and see how many I can come up with. You can search for anchor bolt nuts and washers as well sighn and light pole hardware suppliers.

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WNYPCRepair
44 minutes ago, Hank01 said:

How many of each do you need? PM me your address and I'll send you some. I'll check tomorrow and see how many I can come up with. You can search for anchor bolt nuts and washers as well sighn and light pole hardware suppliers.



I found them at bolt depot at a reasonable price. Thanks, I appreciate the offer, but I will just order a box of each

I found them on Amazon and eBay before, but they were outrageously priced. I just got a box of 25 1" and a box of 50 3/4 inch for $18 plus shipping

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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WNYPCRepair

So, I spent the entire day building a pump mount. 

Not having the laser cut pieces to make a front mount, I did the next best thing. I bought a brand new mule drive from a member here (he can name himself if he wants, and another thank you to him), stripped all the mule drive parts out of it, and made a mount for the pump that fit inside the mule drive. I was quite proud of it, I used the bolt holes on the side, and it was adjustable for the backward tilt of the xi engine. Got it all lined up perfectly, was just about to drill the holes for the pump mount, and realized I didn't plan for any way to tighten the belt. Argh!!!

I'll probably be laying awake tonight thinking about how to do it. 


Oh, to clarify, I didn't use the new mule drive, I used the one off the New Holland, since the PO didn't do any PM, I figured it was in the worst shape of the 3.

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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Snowmobileaddict
1 hour ago, WNYPCRepair said:

So, I spent the entire day building a pump mount. 

Not having the laser cut pieces to make a front mount, I did the next best thing. I bought a brand new mule drive from a member here (he can name himself if he wants, and another thank you to him), stripped all the mule drive parts out of it, and made a mount for the pump that fit inside the mule drive. I was quite proud of it, I used the bolt holes on the side, and it was adjustable for the backward tilt of the xi engine. Got it all lined up perfectly, was just about to drill the holes for the pump mount, and realized I didn't plan for any way to tighten the belt. Argh!!!

I'll probably be laying awake tonight thinking about how to do it. 


Oh, to clarify, I didn't use the new mule drive, I used the one off the New Holland, since the PO didn't do any PM, I figured it was in the worst shape of the 3.

 

Too funny.

 

That's what I was going to do before I decided on getting mine laser cut with the rest of the parts.  I think I found just the mule frame on parts tree for like $85. 

 

 

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WNYPCRepair

Well I think I have the pump mount sorted out. need a longer belt to be sure. It appears I am an inch or two shortimage.thumb.jpg.ff56c3748f0a174ef0cc9b03

image.thumb.jpg.f9278f554b4d36c986002d93

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Snowmobileaddict

Looks like it will work.

 

In case your pump isn't labeled for input/output for a given rotation direction, here is a generic cutaway photo:

 

Gear_pump.png

 

I was embarrassed to mention my build thread that I had hooked up my pump backwards when I first plumbed it and filled the res.

 

I could see the gears on my pump through the ports but I was visualizing the fluid flow incorrectly for the given rotation.  It was a bit of a "duhhhhhhh" moment for me.  ha-ha

 

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WNYPCRepair

My pump is bi-directional, and there were instructions for which is in and out on the website. 

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Snowmobileaddict

Yeah most are bi-directional.  Mine is too.

 

I just was visualizing wrong how the pump moves the fluid when I first mounted it up.   I didn't have a diagram showing the in/out location for a clockwise-facing-the-pump-shaft installation.

 

I thought it pushed it through between the teeth, not around the outside of the pump housing.  That's why I had to flip my connections 

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WNYPCRepair

Woo Hoo! Bucket is finished, and looks great!

 

56eae9663824a_bucketfinished.thumb.jpg.6

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WNYPCRepair

Test fit of the boom arms, now that I have the bucket. I have to shorten them about 3 inches for each part, so the bucket isn't so far out in front of the tractor.

 

I have an issue though. I bought bushing stock, drilled the arms, cut the bushing stock (1" OD, 3/4" ID) drilled the bushing for a grease fitting, and ordered grease fittings. Got them today, and the grease fittings protrude into the inside of the bushing. Can't grind the ends of the fittings off or the ball and spring will fall out. I'm not sure what to do now. Do I use the bushings with no way to grease them, and just replace them as they wear? The stock isn't expensive. Or is there a special grease fitting that will fit 1/8" thick material? It doesn't really matter at the ends of the cylinders, the cylinders have grease fittings, so I just skip the bushing, but at the top and bottom pivot points of the arm, there is no way I can think of to grease the pins. Ideas?




56eb2316901fb_boomarms.thumb.jpg.2d5a415

 

 

 

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Snowmobileaddict
18 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said:

Test fit of the boom arms, now that I have the bucket. I have to shorten them about 3 inches for each part, so the bucket isn't so far out in front of the tractor.

 

I have an issue though. I bought bushing stock, drilled the arms, cut the bushing stock (1" OD, 3/4" ID) drilled the bushing for a grease fitting, and ordered grease fittings. Got them today, and the grease fittings protrude into the inside of the bushing. Can't grind the ends of the fittings off or the ball and spring will fall out. I'm not sure what to do now. Do I use the bushings with no way to grease them, and just replace them as they wear? The stock isn't expensive. Or is there a special grease fitting that will fit 1/8" thick material? It doesn't really matter at the ends of the cylinders, the cylinders have grease fittings, so I just skip the bushing, but at the top and bottom pivot points of the arm, there is no way I can think of to grease the pins. Ideas?




56eb2316901fb_boomarms.thumb.jpg.2d5a415

 

 

 

 

 

Buy some new grease zerks that are threaded 1/4-20 (if yours aren't already) Then weld a 1/4-20 nut over the hole you drilled in the bushings.  Install the zerk into the nut.

 

I did that a while back on my snowmobile suspension when the wall thickness was too thin to allow a threaded zerk.

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WNYPCRepair
15 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

Buy some new grease zerks that are threaded 1/4-20 (if yours aren't already) Then weld a 1/4-20 nut over the hole you drilled in the bushings.  Install the zerk into the nut.

 

I did that a while back on my snowmobile suspension when the wall thickness was too thin to allow a threaded zerk.

 

 

Cool! I knew someone would have an answer. :) 

I have a whole box of fittings now but they are 1/4-28. :( 

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Snowmobileaddict
26 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said:

 

 

Cool! I knew someone would have an answer. :) 

I have a whole box of fittings now but they are 1/4-28. :( 

 

Ah

well just get some 1/4-28 nuts

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WNYPCRepair
6 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

 

Ah

well just get some 1/4-28 nuts

 

 

I was going to search for them, wasn't sure if that was a common thread or not

 

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Snowmobileaddict
13 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said:

 

 

I was going to search for them, wasn't sure if that was a common thread or not

 

 

I remember when I did my snowmobile up, the 1/4-20 zerks were in the bins at ace hardware.  Like $1.50 a piece

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roadapples

My Ark loader has the zerks in the end of the pin. When I bought it the PO must have lost one of the pins and had a 5/8 bolt in the one end which I couldn`t grease. So I cut the head off the bolt and drilled a 1/8 hole in the end to the depth of the center of the sleeve and another in the side to meet it. Then drilled the hole larger in the end to accept the zerk. Can`t tell one from another. 

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doc724

I remember having this problem when I added zerk fittings to the pedals on my C141 (they did not come with zerks back in1978).  I think I remember going back to the hardware store and getting ones with shorter threads.  Although, even the shorter ones would protrude into the bushing area on your application.  Welding on a nut is a good low cost solution.  Backyard mechanics always come up with creative solutions.  Another entry for my WH "tip book"

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Snowmobileaddict

Here's how they turned out on a snowmobile application after powder coating:

 

PC6_zpsihpgvrvi.jpg

 

DSC02228_zpsemy2e0b7.jpg

 

 

Edited by Snowmobileaddict
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WNYPCRepair
2 hours ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

Here's how they turned out on a snowmobile application after powder coating:

 

PC6_zpsihpgvrvi.jpg

 

DSC02228_zpsemy2e0b7.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Looks great. The only problem is, mine are down inside the boom arms. Tried twice, had to cut the bushings out because the screw was stuck. So I tried the other route @roadapples suggested, worked pretty well, though I need a V Block and a better drill press. :)

 

 

 

Made some real progress today. Got both boom arms welded up and test fitted, one pin done with grease zerk, and checked the cylinder for fit. 

My bead, just for Dennis :) 

bead.thumb.JPG.a48eee96c526808860e6d2c1b

 

56ec81950107a_armwithcylinder.thumb.JPG.

 

pin.thumb.JPG.ee354133916535fa006a4d37b9

 

56ec81a2bc84e_botharms.thumb.JPG.af7933b

 

 

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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WNYPCRepair

I finally got a few hours today to work on this. I am paying now for the time I took off to work on this at the beginning of the month. I've been swamped with work, and my grandson was visiting last weekend, so it has been sitting for a week. 

Worked on getting the bushings installed in the boom arms, drilling pins and fitting with grease perks, welding on the mounting tabs to the pedestals for the cylinders to attach to. Next is mounting the bucket, installing the cross beam on the boom arms up front, and installing the front angle braces. Then I will be able to mount the cylinders, and get hoses made. I am debating just using the rubber hoses all the way, rather than using the steel lines in between. Still deciding on that. 

One concern I have is the amount of fluid the pedestal will hold. The PF Engineering plans call for as much fluid as the pump will move in a minute, which would be 4 to 8 GPM in my case. No way that pedestal will hold more than a gallon and a half, by my estimate. Hopefully it will be enough. If not, I will either have to add an external tank, or use the other pedestal as an additional reservoir

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Snowmobileaddict

For reference...Total hydraulic system, with reservoir full on my kwikway, with added filter housing was just under a complete 2-gallon jug of hydraulic oil.

 

The kwikway pump is similar range output to the PF pump.  That's a design that kwikway used for decades too.

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WNYPCRepair
5 minutes ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

For reference...Total hydraulic system, with reservoir full on my kwikway, with added filter housing was just under a complete 2-gallon jug of hydraulic oil.

 

The kwikway pump is similar range output to the PF pump.  That's a design that kwikway used for decades too.

 

 

Good news. I was kind of worrying about that, but I thought the same thing, my reservoir is the same size as yours, so I should be OK.

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WNYPCRepair

Made the bucket mounting flanges today. Found out one of the boom arms has a small twist (1/8") so the flanges are not perfectly straight. Tacked the flanges on and will try it as is. If it is too much, the only way I see to fix it is to cut the weld apart and re-weld the boom arm, which I do not want to do. I don't think it will make enough of a difference to matter. 

Made the angle brace brackets and mounted them to the tractor. Made the last pin that needed drilling for a grease zerk, and still have all my fingers. :)  The V block definitely helped, I did one just in a vice and it scared the carp outta me, thought for sure something was going to go flying. I'll be watching CL for a good drill press, the one from HF is junk.

 

 

Also test fitted the cylinders again.

IMG_9881.thumb.JPG.a7bc028bca06a1545da52

 

IMG_9885.thumb.JPG.934e17f8ce6d994df7726

 

IMG_9886.thumb.JPG.6813d76b25a01121e9052

 

 

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