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WNYPCRepair

522xi front end loader build.

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3 minutes ago, wheelhorse -ady said:

thats correct

correct

 

 

Sorry, I meant mm, I dopn't do weel with metric. :)

That works out to about 3 1/4" square, but they look way bigger

 

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1 minute ago, WNYPCRepair said:

 

 

Sorry, I meant mm, I dopn't do weel with metric. :)

That works out to about 3 1/4" square, but they look way bigger

 

no mine are defo 80x80x5 I built ten of them up to now know my parts list like back of my hand now

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3 minutes ago, wheelhorse -ady said:

no mine are defo 80x80x5 I built ten of them up to now know my parts list like back of my hand now

 

 

Oh, I'm not doubting you, they just look big in the picture. Mine are 3 x 5, they are going to look really big I guess. :) 

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lets start from beginning then eh firstly are my chassis strengtheners there 50x50x5mm box with 55mm bracings the strengthers then mount to my subframe under my tractor this has the main part of the tank the drain plug and the feed and return my masts are capped at each end and drilled ro allow oil to flow from my masts to my subframe. My arms. Are made out of 60x40x5mm the angle is hard to get and. Getting the bucket to tip at all levels proves a bit of a challenge however I have jigs ect set up now to speed production in using 3/8 ports and hydraulic hoses through twin Valveblock and have 3000psi 20lpm pump fitted however ill be upping this slightly . My cylinders are rated at 1.62 ton each there's two on there. 3.24 ton of lift on arms and similar on bucket make sure your return ports and pipes are larger than the feed as I found out it does slow it down

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Subframe is tacked together to test position and fit, all that is left is to weld it together at the intersection of the cross piece and the front/back rails and add gussets. Then on to cutting and building the pedestals. 

I couldn't figure out for the life of me why I couldn't get this nut started on the U bolt. :)

nut.thumb.JPG.5e69247126bff10e3d31ba5847

 

 

 

56e068b96d684_mountedsubframe.thumb.JPG.

 

56e068ec322d3_leftsidemounted.thumb.JPG.

 

 

 

 

And, just for fun....

56e069708a796_brainstractor.jpg.1cf8fcda

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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42 minutes ago, wheelhorse -ady said:

if u need any help or info mate or even for your hydraulic hoses and fittings ill help you out

 

 

Thanks, I am sure I will. I'm a novice at everything, LOL. 

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Subframe done except grinding, sanding, and painting. Both pedestals cut. Tomorrow I hope to weld the top and bottoms on  

 

image.thumb.jpg.0755e3d625cc7b9263a3699a

 

image.thumb.jpg.a657d5291b50fd0b54b7751b

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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Moving right along!  You had time to fix any PCs?

 

BTW, that was a 1/2"x0.5 nut!  If you had two of them you'd have 1 thread per inch.  Would need a matching coarse thread bolt of course!

 

And those 3x5" DO look pretty big!  How many desktop PCs are you planning on lifting?

 

I wouldn't suggest you quit your day job and start a welding shop just yet, but for a guy who couldn't weld not long ago, well, bravo!  You might need a few extra grinding discs for a while longer but man, you've come a long way.  As long as you got good penetration you can fake pretty with a grinder.  Impressive project my friend!  And thanks so much for sharing the trip with pictures!

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22 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Moving right along!  You had time to fix any PCs?

 

BTW, that was a 1/2"x0.5 nut!  If you had two of them you'd have 1 thread per inch.  Would need a matching coarse thread bolt of course!

 

And those 3x5" DO look pretty big!  How many desktop PCs are you planning on lifting?

 

I wouldn't suggest you quit your day job and start a welding shop just yet, but for a guy who couldn't weld not long ago, well, bravo!  You might need a few extra grinding discs for a while longer but man, you've come a long way.  As long as you got good penetration you can fake pretty with a grinder.  Impressive project my friend!  And thanks so much for sharing the trip with pictures!

 

 

I am not as good with flux core, but for 1/4" stuff, my welder isn't powerful enough using gas, I have to use flux core. And, I couldn't see crap out of my helmet, and couldn't get it clean until I was almost done yesterday and realized the glass comes out. LOL. Made a world of difference. But yes, I am more worried about good penetration than pretty. 

Work has been very quiet this week, which I am happy about. :)

 

 

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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x2 on the Welding helmet glass.  It took me a while to realize that I could take the one apart I was using and clean it.  Made as world of difference.

 

Primo job on the mitered uprights.  Looks spot on to me.

 

 

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Seeing/Eyesite improves prettiness!  When it comes to welding and i suppose other skills!  Trying to guess what the weld is doing is just not as good and seeing it!:rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

Seeing/Eyesite improves prettiness!  When it comes to welding and i suppose other skills!  Trying to guess what the weld is doing is just not as good and seeing it!:rolleyes:

 

 

I'm half blind anyway, a filthy helmet doesn't help.

 

1 hour ago, Snowmobileaddict said:

x2 on the Welding helmet glass.  It took me a while to realize that I could take the one apart I was using and clean it.  Made as world of difference.

 

Primo job on the mitered uprights.  Looks spot on to me.

 

 



Took some doing, LOL. 

I used the plasma cutter to cut the 5" side, but you (or at least I) can't cut on an angle with the plasma cutter, so I used a cut off wheel in a grinder for the 3" cuts. I'll still have a bit of grinding to do, but they should weld up nice.

 

 

2 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

 If you had two of them you'd have 1 thread per inch.

 

 

There are no threads at all in that nut

 

Edited by WNYPCRepair

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What did Kwik-Way do at the pins for the boom arms? Does the pin just go through the steel, or did they use bushings?

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21 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said:

What did Kwik-Way do at the pins for the boom arms? Does the pin just go through the steel, or did they use bushings?

 

 

No bushings. Just non-greasable pins. And all of mine are slightly oblonged.

 

Absolutely love the project! You went from

im thinking about to I'm almost done! Best of luck! 

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Forest Road said:

 

 

No bushings. Just non-greasable pins. And all of mine are slightly oblonged.

 

Absolutely love the project! You went from

im thinking about to I'm almost done! Best of luck! 

 

 

 



Thanks. I am about to come to a halt if parts don't start showing up. :)

Still deciding what to do about a bucket.

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9 minutes ago, WNYPCRepair said:



Thanks. I am about to come to a halt if parts don't start showing up. :)

Still deciding what to do about a bucket.

 

 

Build one one stronger than the KW. It's to light. Flexes and bends far too easily.

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1 minute ago, Forest Road said:

 

 

Build one one stronger than the KW. It's to light. Flexes and bends far too easily.

 

 

They are 1/8", right? I was thinking of 3/16". Adds a lot of weight, plus I've beefed up the arms too. I probably should order some good 6 ply tires.

 

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10 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said:

What did Kwik-Way do at the pins for the boom arms? Does the pin just go through the steel, or did they use bushings?

 

The Kwik-way loaders do have "bushings" in both ends of the boom arms.  That is to say if you consider 3/4" ID steel pipe for the loader pins to rest in as bushings.  The problem with the KW design is that there are no provisions to keep the pins from remaining stationary with respect to the uprights and/or the bucket.  As such, they end up staying still inside the "bushings" and egging out the hole in the locations shown below.  I'm going to be installing some pin capturing provisions that will prevent the pins from rotating.  Then its just a matter of manually greasing the loader pins every once in a while or machining the pins and/or the bushings and hydraulic cylinder eyelets  to accept a grease zerk to ease greasing. Luckily my loader must not have seen much action in its 32yr lifetime because my holes have no wear or egg shape at all.

 

uprightsjpg_zpsjfkel2mm.jpg

 

bucket_zpsnckctdyh.jpg

 

main%20fraime_zpstnjyjku1.jpg

 

 

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11 hours ago, WNYPCRepair said:

 

 

I'm half blind anyway, a filthy helmet doesn't help.

 



Took some doing, LOL. 

I used the plasma cutter to cut the 5" side, but you (or at least I) can't cut on an angle with the plasma cutter, so I used a cut off wheel in a grinder for the 3" cuts. I'll still have a bit of grinding to do, but they should weld up nice.

 

 

 

 

There are no threads at all in that nut

 

I know.  That was the funniest thing I could think of at the time.  I recently found a potential fit for it though.  I was in the hardware store and found a screw with no threads.

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7 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I was in the hardware store and found a screw with no threads.

 

 

Those are called nails, Dennis. :) 

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Just now, WNYPCRepair said:

 

 

Those are called nails, Dennis. :) 

Yep!  Phillip nails!  :ROTF:

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Both pedestal tops on and one base done, though I do have a mistake I'll have to fix. I was rushing because I was running out of gas for the welder. I think it must have an internal leak as it went from 1000 lbs this am to 0 by 2:30. I wasn't doing that much welding. 

 

@Snowmobileaddict let me bug you again, or anyone else who knows, what size are the pipe fittings at the base of the tank. They looks like 1/2 inch. 

 

Received the the control valve today and the rest of the hydraulics should be here tomorrow. 

 

Gotta run run out for more gas now, and some flat bar stock. 

 

image.thumb.jpg.3e2270108380751d9f2d36afimage.thumb.jpg.2d34812802bea13555170489

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That looks awesome.  Something tells me your "white sheet" won't end up catching fire like mine did. Flame retardant fabric must work better.  haha.

 

The pipe fittings....

 

Upper-most filler port/vent is 1/2" NPT

 

The middle reservoir return port is 3/8" NPT

 

The lowest port, the reservoir outlet is 1/2" NPT

 

There is also a tiny check screw just below the top most port (filler port) that you remove in order to fill the reservoir to the correct volume. 

This is how you fill the reservoir while using the check screw.  Start with the all loader cylinders retracted and fill the reservoir with fluid until oil drips from the check hole.  Then, you power up the tractor and run the cylinders in/out several times and then retract all the cylinders and shut down the tractor.  Then add more fluid till the oil appears at the check hole again and you're done.

 

I can provide you with a height measurement for the check screw and the upper most filler port for reference if you like.

 

-Andy

 

 

IMG_zpsaeurcokp.jpg

Edited by Snowmobileaddict
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