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prondzy

Kohler small block rebuild tutorial

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WHX??

Great thread Mike with excellent pics... I don't know how I missed it, mods this needs to go to someplace special for reference, I'll just shut up now so I don't ruin it!

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BOB ELLISON

YES please continue with any and all rebuilds. I have a 1977 B80 I want to rebuild the engine and fix it up to cut grass

I got a lot of information from this. I want to start with the k181 8 hp and maybe try a k341 that I have extra for the c160.

there is no knowledge like old knowledge , Not saying your old but these old kohlers are not todays engines.

I would rather have a old kohlers then a new one any day . Thank you PRONDZY

   

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WNYPCRepair
6 hours ago, WHX6 said:

Great thread Mike with excellent pics... I don't know how I missed it, mods this needs to go to someplace special for reference, I'll just shut up now so I don't ruin it!



Yeah, this should definitely be pinned

 

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WHX??
On ‎3‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 10:19 PM, prondzy said:

find some more time to finish writing this thread. 

Take your time Mike, we all know how time consuming doing a write up like this can be!

 

Couple of questions Mike, I notice you use some type of grease for an assembly lube, this is to protect during first start up I presume?

 

Also you don't paint until assembly is complete?

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prondzy

WHX6, Yespecially the assembly lube is for startup this is a very critical point for all these new clean parts to be rubbing together. Clean motor oil can be used I just feel this light weight grease will stand up better at initial start up.

 

I would have painted the block and Tins before assembly after the machine shop but this motor went on the 702 I posted in Real Patina thread.

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grine_22

Nice thread, enjoyed reading it. 

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JPWH

Great detailed explanations.

Thank you for taking the time to post this build.

Now I think I can build my k181 for my 854.

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Coadster32

Great threa, and thanks for taking the time to do this. Points set at .020...not .200  (typo I'm sure)

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Mike'sHorseBarn

I suggest this thread be pinned to the top of the Engines section. I had a hard time finding it a second time lol

Edited by Mike'sHorseBarn
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Mike'sHorseBarn

I'm an idiot. Found it in the reference section!

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stevasaurus

@Mike'sHorseBarn   Welcome to the Reference Section Mike...this is something that @formariz and I spent some time fixing a couple of years ago.  Now that you found it, if you read any threads that you think should be pinned again...let me know.  This should be the 1st place to look for fantastic threads.  :)

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Mike'sHorseBarn

Thanks Steve!

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The Gman

:popcorn:

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kwalshy

First off, I love this thread.  Thank you for sharing your photos, explanation and more important....the time to post all of this.

 

I just got my Kohler K series 10hp block back from the machine shop after a bore over, valve seats recut and new valve guides installed.

I decided to read this post again before reassembly and after reading this thread again I thought about the valve tappets. 

 

The reason I ask is because I forgot to designate which tappet came from what valve during disassembly and now during reassembly I'm hesitant....

I measured the valve tappets with my micrometer and I have the following 2.768" and 2.756", so they are not the same length.

so which one goes where?  or doesn't it matter?

I don't want to move any further in my rebuild until I know what to do....yes I'm a first timer at a rebuild like this....shame on me for not keeping track with the tappet to valve relationship....

 

Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you

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oldredrider

The 10hp tappets can go in either location as they are adjustable. Only on the small block (8hp and smaller) does it matter.

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kwalshy

Thank you!:D

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ol~horses

fascinating!

 

ol~horses

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LengerichKA88

@prondzy Thank you for taking the time to do this, helps us “Redhorns” (don’t wanna cuss and say “G*€$N”) who are just starting out get an idea of what’s ahead. 

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Burnerman

Great write up! Just 1 thing I think I missed was the valve adjustment. Do the valve ends get ground down on the smaller Kohlers to achieve proper valve lash?

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Pullstart

@prondzy I was looking through this as a refresher...

 

have you ever done valve guides yourself?  It looks like Norman at isavetractors suggests a grade 8 bolt turned down to fit in the guide for driving it out and in... but I don’t know if this is a slide hammer job or a hydraulic press job?

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prondzy
7 hours ago, pullstart said:

@prondzy I was looking through this as a refresher...

 

have you ever done valve guides yourself?  It looks like Norman at isavetractors suggests a grade 8 bolt turned down to fit in the guide for driving it out and in... but I don’t know if this is a slide hammer job or a hydraulic press job?

No Kev, if i need guides they are only a couple bucks each, installed/removed by the machine shop.

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Gregor

This thread is invaluable to me. I read the whole thing. Some parts several times. My wife hollered dinner is ready a 1/2 hour ago. Oh well. I am in the process of rebuilding my K161 right now. There is some great info here. The only thing I didn't do was remove the cam. The lobes looked perfect, the weights for the ACR moved freely, and the governor looks good as far as I can tell. I am familiar enough with motors to understand the workings of the crank, rod, piston, valves and the like. Governors and ACR weights scare me a bit. :confusion-confused: They just don't have them in Lawnboys and small block Chevys. After measuring everything, I decided not to bore the block or grind the crank. They seem to be fine. I have no particular plans for the motor at this time. When completed and running, it will probably go on a shelf and just be pretty. It won't have to work hard. Thank You so much for your effort.

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