Snow blade angling conversion to xi style

[cleat 4,984]

Some previous owner decided to cut off the brackets for the blade angling handle and release.

 

This is on the long frame blade currently on my 520-HC.

 

 

 

Thanks, Cleat

 

 

Edited February 11, 2016 by cleat

[can whlvr 991]

heres some that I have on file,ill get some photos for you later

[/

URL]

[Don1977 604]

While your rebuilding it why don't you extend it out like the xi series blade.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

It wouldn't be factory-stock but an electric actuator might be interesting.

[cleat 4,984]

I thought about that as well but then my cheapness took hold.

 

I can likely fabricate the brackets etc for next to nothing except my time.

 

Cleat

13 minutes ago, Don1977 said:

While your rebuilding it why don't you extend it out like the xi series blade.

I have the extension kit on it.

 

It may also get used on the 416 or my 520 with the standard front axle.

 

Good idea though, I could then sell the extension kit.

 

Cleat

[Don1977 604]

What I meant was to extend the handle out past the foot pad like the xi series.

[cleat 4,984]

Yes, I will, I have Matt's foot control on all of my 520's so that would work best.

 

Do they use a cable for release ?

 

If so then all I need is the one bracket.

 

Thanks, Cleat

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

The front bracket is for the cable (actually more like a thick wire). I used a coat hanger temporarily for the rear one, to give you an idea of size. The triangular piece is mounted to the front bracket, and a cable from the handle lever is attached to one corner, and a cable to the lock pin is attached to the other corner. 

A 3/8 rod goes from the bottom of the handle to the blade swivel mechanism

 

 

 

 

Edited February 4, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[cleat 4,984]

Yes, I know how the old style Wheel Horse blade release functions, but if I could use a sheathed cable like a clutch or parking brake cable, that could possibly simplify things especially if I really offset the handle.

 

I thought it would be 3/8 or 1/2 rod to move the blade.

 

Thanks for any and all ideas, Cleat

 

 

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

Maybe like the xi blade then. A cable goes from the handle, through the pipe, and up to the locking pin. And it clears the footrest

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 4, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[cleat 4,984]

I found this. I may be able to duplicate it with some work.

 

release cable.pdf

 

Cleat

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

2 minutes ago, cleat said:

I found this. I may be able to duplicate it with some work.

 

release cable.pdf

 

Cleat

LOL, great minds think alike

 

Edited February 4, 2016 by WNYPCRepair

[cleat 4,984]

Yes, the xi setup is what I will try and duplicate. If someone can measure as much of the linkage lengths, angles etc that would be great.

 

Thanks, Cleat

[WNYPCRepair 1,875]

4 minutes ago, cleat said:

Yes, the xi setup is what I will try and duplicate. If someone can measure as much of the linkage lengths, angles etc that would be great.

 

Thanks, Cleat

 

 

If I ever get a break from work. Feel free to send me a reminder, I am forgetful

[Tankman 3,515]

On ‎2‎/‎3‎/‎2016 at 3:39 PM, shallowwatersailor said:

It wouldn't be factory-stock but an electric actuator might be interesting.

Would be, take a peek-a-boo. Actuator and brackets available; i.e.: Northern Tool, Amazon, wherever.

I forget but, photos are from another forum member as well as the link for the actuator.

 

http://www.amazon.com/WINDYNATION-Actuator-Maximum-Mounting-Brackets/dp/B012EFMPRE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1447244536&sr=8-9&keywords=linear+actuator+4+inch+stroke

 

Edited February 8, 2016 by Tankman

[Kegler 68]

Great idea, looks like a power seat motor

 

 

[cleat 4,984]

I am working on my version of an xi mechanism.

 

If someone could get at least these measurements that would get me started.

 

 

Thanks, Cleat

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Here you go:

•  Center of pipe to top of handle  -     27"
• Center of pipe to center of rod   -        7-1/2"
• Center of pipe to bottom of frame -     6"

The pipe to the frame is only 3" .

 

The handle is not 90 degrees to the pipe. It sticks out so is probably 95 degrees.

 

The piece to the rod is straight, not like in the drawing. The frame has the "loop" on the end that secures the handle to the frame.

[cheesegrader 433]

I have Matt's foot pedal as well.

The original steup for the 520, with the extension, does not allow for clearance around the pedal when the blade is angled to the right.

The pedal will hit the handle when you try to go forward.

You can try to bend the handle to get it to fit closer to the belt guard, but I agree that it would be easier to just move it to the outside of the footrest like the 523.

I like the cable mod that you are proposing.  Seems much simpler if you can get enough excursion to fully disengage the pin.

If you go with the standard linkage system, I had to move up to 9-guage wire from the original 12-guage.  

Too much resistance at the pin, and the 12 guage wires would always loosen and stretch to the point where they had to be had to be frequently re-tightened.

9-guage solved that problem

[cleat 4,984]

Thanks for the measurements.

 

My blade has a 1/2" hole for the rod so I will use 1/2" rod for turning the blade.

 

I will begin making the prototype on Monday when I go back in to work.

 

Next step will be figuring out how to attach the cable at the ends. I have cable and crimp sleeves at work so will likely be figuring a way to connect eye type loops to the release handle and pin.

 

Thanks, cleat

[cheesegrader 433]

The 523 connection uses a clevis at the pin.

A hole is drilled in the center of the clevis and the cable goes through that hole, with a knot or a crimped ball as a stop.

[cleat 4,984]

Just one more question. Can you please measure the release handle and let me know the length of the handle, distance from center of pivot to end of main rotation handle, distance from pivot to where cable attaches etc.

 

I would like to copy this as closely as possible, no sense re-inventing that wheel.

 

Thanks again, Cleat

[cheesegrader 433]

Here we go, fresh from the frozen barn

Handle length is 4 1/2"

center of pivot to center of handle is 1 1/4"

center of handle to cable attachment is 1/2"

total length of cable pull is 1 1/4"

[ericj 1,576]

the newest blade that you could buy from toro for a classic tractor used a cable release instead of the wire

 

 

 

 

eric j

[cleat 4,984]

Well, I have started making up some parts for the blade angling.

Bracket will bolt to the frame and has been fitted.

Frame has also been drilled and a guide fitted for the release cable to pass through.

Angling rod will be 2 piece with a joiner for fine tuning turn handle position.

Pipes have been bent, larger pipe to be cut down and welded to bracket.

Smaller pipe will have handle and turn bar welded to it.

Small piece of pipe with several holes is to connect release cable to blade lock pin.

 

 

I will keep updating as parts get finished.