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Pulleys & idlers for Free

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I've done this with a couple of Mule Drive pulleys and it's as simple as WHX^ described.   I scribe a match mark before I take the 2 halves apart to put it back exactly as it came apart. I also use some of the Blue Loctite on the nuts just for insurance. 

 

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Yes works excellent on muleys Oliver.. This one just happened to have that extra (drain???)  hole in it for reference on reassembly. Leave it open for drainage if used in a horizontal app.

Best thing about this is the pully can be easiliy reseparated for future replace. :)

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Genius!  Between this idea and bringing a bike to the big show, I'd say you're a genius!

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Not really Pullstart....just  got tired of paying those prices!!!

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Good to know. Might try that with some of my pulleys. Thanks for sharing the info.   :thumbs2:

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Excellent write up Jim and great pictures.  If you don't mind, I will move this thread to the "reference section" in a couple weeks.  It is worthy of that.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

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started doing just that back in 2009 works great

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brian

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Love the hardware Brian :handgestures-thumbupright: 

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This one was given to me by another member. It is the clutch idler pully for tractors with that 5003/5010 transmissions. The bearing was seized and I needed it for the mounting stud. I will rplace the bearing in it so if someone else needs one let me know.

 

It helps if grind down the top of the rivet flat for a good center punch. This one has a 30 OD x 10 ID x 9 width (MM) or a very common 6200 bearing. 5 clams on ebay.

IMG_20160216_163526368.jpg

20160219_134436.jpg

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OK now for the what not to do. After drilling the heads off the rivets they punch out easy just make sure you do it on a FLAT surface and not on the top of the vise like I did...otherwise it will end up looking like this. I can straiten this out but the idea is not to do it in the first place! One of those "I knew better not to do that"  things.....56 yo metal bends pretty easy!

20160219_134539.jpg

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