Diagnosing starting problems

[WH nut 553]

Why wont it move without the brake band?

[Ironhorse1077 21]

Thank you very much for replying.

 

I was told that is because it is all connected with the forward/reverse lever.  I haven't had time to take the console panels off yet for further inspection.

 

  I was able to tow/slide it up the lane back to the garage area with the use of a  wooden sled built from pallet scraps that I slid under the rear end after jacking it up with a floor jack.  Hooked it up to the truck and no problem.  Then after getting it back to a safe work area I jacked it up again added (4) casters so I can maneuver the tractor by myself w/o harming the hydro transmission.  The reason I didn't add the casters first was concern they would break on the less even macadam of my lane as compared to the driveway.

 

I will keep my eye out for a brake band from a broke down hydro, but alternatively, I was advised that I could glue a leather belt around the brake drum in order to take up any imperfections that will likely exist in the brake band after attempting to hammer/bend it back into original shape (there will likely be more of an egg shape than a true circle) and then welding it back together.

[Ironhorse1077 21]

Had a good friend weld the brake band back together, had to straighten out the brake lever and brake bracket also, got drive belt back around the idler pulley, installed plow and got some work done.  Thanks for your advice.  

Wondering if a pair of spacers could be installed on rear axle to give 23x10.5x12 ags a bit more clearance to accommodate a set of chains w/o chewing up the brake band.  They work fine without chains unless the snow gets more than a few inches deep.  I had planned on 9.5 turfs, beet juice and chains which would have been fine, but circumstances conspired against that plan leaving me the option of the 10.5" ags w/ beet juice.