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cod

hood support (?) break down

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cod

Has anyone ever tried to separate the hood support while it's still on the tractor?  This past summer I tried to get the rock shaft out of my spare 418A and I had to give up as I they don't sell dynamite at the local hardware store.  It occurred to me that I might be able to remove the sheet metal on one side and then take it and the entire shaft to work and see if I can press it off there.  I went out today and found that there's a center plate ( just in front of the parking brake ) that appears to be spot welded in place that prevents the left side from coming off.  I can see the marks from where it was welded and I'm thinking about drilling them out to see if the side comes off once they're removed.  Right now I can't see of a way to press the rock shaft out with the hood support around it and I can slip bolts through the "new holes" to hold it together when I'm done.

 

That said, any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cod

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Ed Kennell

I'm not familiar with a 418A, but do they have a hairpin clip that locks the rock shaft in place like the Cs?

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daveoman1966

Here are pics of the 418-a HYD lift and the MANUAL You could use a die grinder and cut-off wheel to split the tube of the rockshaft (# 7 or #19) to release pressure, then drive it out.  Having done that, I can provide a replacement rockshaft. 

for further details, send direct email to me at this address:  (just clik the link)

daveoman@windstream.net

418-A HYD LIFT.gif

418-A MAN LIFT.gif

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cod

Ed,

 

Thanks to Dave's pictures, you can see there are hair pin clips that help keep the rock shaft in place.  They came out just like they should and I hoped that the shaft #1 (first diagram) would just slide out with some heat and a couple of whacks with a hammer.  WRONG!!!  The little propane torch I have just doesn't cut it and I have to find it's big brother.

 

Dave,

 

Thanks for the picture and if I end up destroying the rock shaft, I'll be in touch.  I was really hoping that the hood support ( the dashed outline in the upper left ) would come apart but I suspect they spot welded it for strength.

 

Cod

 

 

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roadapples

This isn`t going to help at all, but since you brought it up I remember as a kid they did sell dynamite at the local hardware store here in Fairfield. Hard to believe the way things are today.

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JPWH

Cod if you are using propane try mapp gas on part 1. Get it as hot as you can then spray on pb blaster let it set a day then repeat. It may take 2 or three applications. Patients and perseverance will pay off. Good luck.

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DennisThornton

I agree with Hank, sometimes it takes time.  Sometimes it takes more times.  Heating and cooling seems to help.  PB Blaster and the like needs time to soak deep into the trouble locations.

 

Then again sometimes a bigger torch and hammer is the right combo!

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doc724

Dennis and Hank have the right approach.  Use patience.  If PD blaster does not work, buy some Kroil-it is 4X the price but works better.  I have had to pull the rock shaft out of two late 70's model tractors.  You cannot swing a hammer in there, however if you pull on the lift lever (make sure you have removed item 5 and 41 in Daveoman's pix), the rock shaft will hit the side of the tower and should slide off.

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cleat

I have had 2 of these so stuck that I cut the shaft then put it in my 20 ton hydraulic press and still needed heat from an acetylene torch before they would break free.

 

You can be sure that when they go back together they are liberally coated in never-seize.

 

Cleat

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DennisThornton
12 hours ago, doc724 said:

Dennis and Hank have the right approach.  Use patience.  If PD blaster does not work, buy some Kroil-it is 4X the price but works better.  I have had to pull the rock shaft out of two late 70's model tractors.  You cannot swing a hammer in there, however if you pull on the lift lever (make sure you have removed item 5 and 41 in Daveoman's pix), the rock shaft will hit the side of the tower and should slide off.

Yep!  I keep my Kroil for special occasions.  It is pricey!  But if it works where nothing else does then it's worth it.  As a side note, I do think that using other stuff and then Kroil with no better results is not fair to Kroil.  If another product only partially creeps in but blocks Kroil from going any further or making full contact to the problem spots then it's not Kroil's fault.  So using everything else first and then saying Kroil didn't work either might not be a proper test...  Probably better to heat again as hot as you dare or what is appropriate to burn off and out any other product and THEN try Kroil would be a better approach.

12 hours ago, doc724 said:

 

 

Edited by DennisThornton
Odd duplicate post. Hopefully I've just deleted the duplicate...
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woodchuckfarmer

seafoam deepcreap works pretty good too.

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doc724

Dennis,  I got a good chuckle out of your comment ..."I keep Kroil for my special occasions".  I do exactly the same.  Not only is the stuff pricey, it is difficult to find!.  I bought a big spray can back in 2013 when I was restoring my C141.  It was somewhere in the neighborhood of $24-26 back then.  I still have it, but it is getting low now.   My special occasions:  getting the roll pin out of steering wheels, deck pulley removal, wheel hub removal, oh, and rear hitch pin removal of course.

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