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chorusguy

cleaning suggestions

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chorusguy

I've worked my horses really hard this summer and they are very dirty.  Clay soil here and also sand.  So I would like to hear and see how you clean everything and get ready for storage.  I will keep one available for the push blade for whatever snow we get.  Thanks

 

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Wheel-N-It
A good pressure washing, wax, and wd40 (where needed) alays works for me :D
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rmaynard

I blow all the loose leaves, grass and dirt off with my leaf blower, then I hose the entire tractor down with a garden hose to get the top layer of summer/fall crud off . While wet, I spray it with Parson's Sudsy Ammonia. Let it sit a couple of minutes, scrub with a soft car wash brush, then rinse again. I blow most of the water off, then start the engine to dry it out. I avoid getting water directly on the vicinity of the shifter boot. Grease all zerks and put it in the shed where I shut off the fuel valve and let the engine run until it dies.

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DougC

Mine work year round. I blow them off with compressed air after each use  except in winter. When dirty I use wash mitt dunked in bucket of water then wipe everything  off. while still wet I use a shammy (spelling.....sorry.) to dry off and turtle wax twice a year. The electrical connectors are not weather-pac thats why I dont use garden hose.    :)

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shallowwatersailor

Last year I found a product called "Fluid Film" in a spray can. A snowblower forum member mentioned so I gave it a try. It is basically a lanolin wax in a can and work really well in hard to get nooks and crannies. It was behind the counter at Advance Auto in the "Pro" section, according to the sales person.

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RMCIII

It's a process for me. Usually takes about half a day. Also the same process in reverse when I get ready in the spring.

  • First I blow off all the lose dirt and grass clippings
  • Then I remove any panels, hoods, fenders, ect.
  • Drop the mower deck and turn it on it's side to be cleaned underneath
  • Take off any additional belts, covers that I can
  • I use the pre-mix auto wash/wax that hooks to your garden hose. This is at AutoZone or Advanced. Been using it a couple years now. Works good.
  • I use terry cloth towels to work the wash/wax in real good.
  • Rinse with garden hose
  • Windex and clay bar
  • Hook up the pressure washer and rinse toughly
  • Same steps for the deck
  • Use leaf blower to dry it off and see where I may have missed anything. Repeat necessary steps from above.
  • Once clean, I then hit all my zerts
  • Then comes the scratch remover, swirl remover, wax, then finally polish. All done with a buffer of course.
I have found that not may hit the hard to reach places. My current GT had a massive build up of grass clippings behind the battery, right next to a bunch of relays. Can we say potential fire hazard! I also run it up on car ramps, makes it much easier to get the underside also.

RCIII

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DougC

You Cleveland Ohio guys are really meticulous.   :handgestures-thumbupright:      I bet that tractor looks brand new.

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Tankman
All great cleaning techniques.

1st - I always pull up to the Shop Vac.
2nd - Compressed air.
3rd - All the above.
4th - Last call, WD-40 (wd = water displacement).

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857 horse

I have started using Trufuel as my last tank or 2 before shut down and hybernation,,,,,and yes,,,shut off the fuel valve
 

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squonk

I have started using Trufuel as my last tank or 2 before shut down and hybernation,,,,,and yes,,,shut off the fuel valve
 

Don't forget to open it in the spring! :) :) :eusa-doh:

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shallowwatersailor

One item I have found to be handy is a swivel attachment that goes on the end of my pressure washer wand. I can direct the stream upwards to clean the bottom of the tractor.

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chorusguy

Thanks all.  Can I get more detail about pressure washing.  Concerned about electrical connections primarily. Secondly how you use wd40 to displace water. Thanks

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Tankman

Thanks all.  Can I get more detail about pressure washing.  Concerned about electrical connections primarily. Secondly how you use wd40 to displace water. Thanks

I spray WD-40 in any and all places water might be "hiding". Bolts. threads, hood hinge, lots of places. Grandson chore.

During the snow plowing season, back the Horses into the barn up on lengthy 2 x 6's. Water drips off and the chains aren't in puddles.
The snow blade is sittin' on the 6-bys too. WD-40 I spray along the top edge of the cutting blade, the "water displacement" seeps down behind the cuttin' edge.

Anyway, we're not looking. We're inspecting.

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WHX??

Thanks all.  Can I get more detail about pressure washing.  Concerned about electrical connections primarily. Secondly how you use wd40 to displace water. Thanks

There are a lot of guys against pressure washing because of the obvious water in places you don't want. I think its ok as long as you don't get too crazy and use real hi pressure. I have a pressure reg on one  of mine I dial down. Most washers you can inject  degreaser as well. If you don't have a pressure reg. use distance. ..some washers will take the paint &decals right off so be careful. I hose all my workers off after use so the build up isn't so bad and I have the Toro quick disconnect deck washers on all my decks. I do pay the price for my analness....thing bolts seem rust and set more  and I think I go thru spindle bearings more than I should .....keep em greased helps. I also use regular hose pressure right into the fan inlet of a running motor to keep fins clean. Run the motor till good and hot to dry. I run the decks after cleaning to help dry out too. The Gunk Bubble Brite in a spray can can be helpful on really bad stuff.

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Tankman
After pressure washing, compressed air "blow dry".
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USHorse

Wow...I feel like a slug compared to what I have just read.  My fall storage prep usually consist of "I oughta clean the tractor up...followed by in the Spring...."look what I didn't do last fall".  I am now inspired.  Are u all coating painted sufaces with wd 40 to prevent a rust factor or as a degreaser?  

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RMCIII

Chorus - 1 thing I have learned over my short life time of ups and downs, if the water kills the beast, then look to the connections, they will show the weakness! Your engine was designed to take on water. It was built to withstand rain and snow, if you are concerned about the water, then maybe you are concerned about more than what we know! Every single one of my SUVs, cars and garden tractor engines receive a thorough pressure washing at least twice a year. If I short something out that means it needed replaced anyway. I recently replaced the knock sensors on my 05 Tahoe. When we removed the back sensor it was corroded really bad. My mechanic told me I needed to stop cleaning the engine. I asked him about the seal that kept the water out. We dug a little deeper and found out that the intake has a seal on the rear of it to help protect the sensors. The seal had gone bad. I then asked my mechanic if it was still my fault for washing my engine. He gave me the mechanic answer."I can't be for sure, BUT it may be wise to stop washing the engine.
Here is my theory after 30 plus years of using water in, on and around the engine. If it has a weakness the water will find it!

RCIII
 

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DennisThornton

Toro specifically states not to pressure blast!  At least the xi's.  

So I make sure that I pressure blast!  Yes!  Blast!  But NOT where it will harm anything!  Don't pressure blast the electrical connections or anything that wouldn't appreciate water!  That's all!  I don't want to be mean, but Toro can't IQ check every user....

My 2 cents is remove what you can by hand, big leaves and debris.  Blow out what you can't remove by hand. Pressure blast what you can't what you can't blow out.  Then hand rub what's left!  

I like spraying something that might stop rust and I really like TC-11 and Fluid Film.  Others will have their favorites but these are mine.

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WHX??
15 hours ago, Tankman said:

After pressure washing, compressed air "blow dry".

Leaf blowers work good for drying and cleaning tops of decks

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TDF5G

Well just for the record,  I've cleaned up my '77 B-80 every fall for the past twenty-one years, before attaching plow blade and chains for winter.  I blow it off with compressed air first to get the dust and leaves.  Then I clean off grease and oil gunk and grime with kerosene or mineral spirits in a spray bottle with a parts cleaner brush and rinse off with garden hose.  Then wash it with soap and water, clean tires and wheels with Westley's bleach white tire cleaner.  I avoid spraying water directly in behind the instrument panel, the plastic cover is still there behind the gas tank (I remove it and blow out before washing).  I blow off excess water with air compressor.   I've never had any problems with rust or corrosion or electrical issues. Never pressure washed it.

 

I've never wiped it down with WD40 or anything to inhibit rust.  I would think that would make it a dust magnet when mowing.  I keep it in an outdoor shed in summer and heated basement garage in winter.   I do like to keep it clean.  I like the looks of a clean tractor or any vehicle, especially the wheels and tires.  It's a lot nicer to work on a clean tractor too.

 

I'm going to take a trip to the car wash soon with the C-105 I bought recently because it's such a gunky mess.  I'm planning to let it run while I'm washing it.  I was going to borrow a pressure washer and do it at home, but I figured I make a mess, so I'll leave the mess at the car wash instead of at my place.:rolleyes:

 

Edited by TDF5G
spelling and grammar
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Ken B

One thing to remember is the seals on sensors and the like were designed to keep out moisture and the occasional cleaning from a garden hose, WITHOUT the added pressure of a pressure washer. IMO if you need a pressure washer to clean any parts of your engine engine because it is that dirty then you have bigger problems, such as oil leaks that have collected all the dirt and crud you can imagine.. Open the hood on any of my vehicles and you will find that they are spot less. A little Simple Green or Purple Power if needed and the light pressure from a garden hose..  Who wants to listen to all that racket from a pressure washer anyway if not truly needed?  Ya gotta fix the oil leaks when they show up.... 

 

Back in the day (in my young and dumb days)  I brought a truck or two with a greasy ass mess under the hood to the local car wash to clean and let them deal with the mess. Thru the years I have learned that certain things just ain't right and that there are a lot of things that I regret doing... I also know that greasy engine cleaning at the car wash these days is seriously frowned upon, if they catch you making said mess you can be held accountable for the EPA clean-up...

Edited by Ken B
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953 nut
On 11/20/2015, 6:14:21, squonk said:

Don't forget to open it in the spring!   

 

Mike, is there a story behind this?  Please share.

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TDF5G

I took the C-105 to the car wash yesterday afternoon.  It was mostly mud from farm use.  I did feel a little guilty when I saw the old lady come out after I left and swept my mess into the pit while I was loading it up on my trailer..  It was only a little mess.  But I figured she's just doing her job also, it goes with the territory.  :mellow:

 

I attached a pic of the lady that swept up my mess. 

IMG_2524.JPG

Edited by TDF5G
attached pic
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AMC RULES

:roll:  I wish we had the audio...

of what she was muttering.  :eek:

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857 horse

After 40 years,,,,,,i have a lady that cleans some of my mess's,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

BUT ......I CAN POST PICS NOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!  loloololol

 

craig knows somthing...mine mutters after she cleans behind me......

 

Edited by 857 horse
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