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105 wiring and switch

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I am frustrated with this wiring, brought it used, restored all. switch was cut at wires. I have tried other switches at least three, not one would turn on engine. jump pto switch and seat switch. trace wiring with OM meter. are the switches made from 1979 to 1981 all the same?
I am beginning to rewire this whole tractor.
Help please
Bill 

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Welcome to the forum.

Post your tractor model number and serial number along with the engine number and spec number. With those we should be able to give you accurate information.

Garry

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01-k802-19984 0233 1981 105  wiring and switch issues. I have three switches all will not work. Even tried working these switch with my c141. Wiring on my B80 looks the same as 105. What aim I not findimg?

TThnnk aal f yyou hhel.
Biil

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01-k802-19984 0233 1981 105  wiring and switch issues. I have three switches all will not work. Even tried working these switch with my c141. Wiring on my B80 looks the same as 105. What aim I not doing.
Biil

20151022_142245.jpg

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Can you tell us where you have power ? Coil, etc... could narrow down quicker...

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A few pages here with one being an illustration of the ignition switch and how the terminals are identified. Click on the small pictures on the first page to enlarge them.
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/3628-tractor-1981-c-105-8-speed-da-tipl-snpdf/

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/670-tractor-1981-c-series-kohler-powered-wiring-detailedpdf/

For starters make sure you have power to both terminals on the ammeter. If not disconnect the negative (-) battery cable from the battery and hook both ammeter wires to the same terminal on the ammeter or connect them together and tape them up so they don't short. Now reconnect the negative (-) battery cable to the battery and let us know what you have now.

Garry

Edited by gwest_ca

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I have power to coil. Yes. And cylenoid,  battery side. Some one cut the wires to switch, and cut off terminal ends. Plus they added wires. Messup.I have built new ends.connected them to the switch, but as I have attach them according to diograms.nothing works.I used my om meter to trace wires back to ever point.and brought a new sylenoid. And a good battery. Also I have bypass safety switches. You would think this would make it run. Inquire into new wiring harness,  not available. I believe there just be one and only one switch for this tractor.  

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Start the whole troubleshooting process by making sure that you have a good ground connection between the battery (-) post and the engine/frame.
Have you checked the 25 amp fuse that is located between the solenoid and the ammeter?

The reason I said to check the ground connection is that the isolation mount for that engine is notorious for developing a poor ground. The battery (-) connects to the frame, then the engine cradle is grounded to the frame through a wire, not a direct connect like previous and later models.

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C-105_E_PARTS_Red.thumb.png.beb419fb66a8

Look at the image above. Item 47 is the wire that grounds the cradle to the frame. The red circle is your ammeter. If the ammeter is bad, you will have no voltage at the ignition switch. It can be bypassed by connecting both wires together. And as I said earlier, don't forget about the 25 amp fuse.

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I hate wiring problems, sometimes  they can be a real bear to figure out. You'll getter done, just hang in there.   PS     :WRS:

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