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What brand of gauges are D series owners using for replacements?
I would like a matched set for a D200(oil pressure, transmission temp, volts or amps) with lights.
The ones on mine are in bad shape and don't work, except amps. I think the sending units may be bad or maybe the inside of the gauges are bad from sitting outside for so long.
Early 70’s C161 with front loader bucket and homemade box blade, non-runnin K321?
i purchased this tractor a year ago. It ren for an hour and then stopped, with no compression it had a K341 in it. I replaced the motor with a spare that came with it, now it has died as well.
We we made a mount and winch set up to use the 3’ box blade. The front bucket/hydraulics work well. I’m in Carson City NV.
I also have a mower mower deck and a tiller but I do not know their condition.
Thanks for looking.
Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now...
All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect....
Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully.
Fits long frame tractors
Front-End Loader Manual #810092R1
14 pages 3.5MB
97-40FL01 replaced by 1980-84 model 07-40FL01
1974 model 97-40FL01
1975 model 97-40FL01
1976 model 97-40FL01
1977 model 97-40FL01
1978 model 97-40FL01
1979 model 97-40FL01
1979 serial numbers that have shown up for the 97-40FL01
005022 - Build date 1978 8342 December 08 Friday
005194 - Build date 1979 954 February 23 Friday
With a front end loader for these tractors how important is a ladder type subframe? Does the cross piece in the front have to connect where the towers are? Can the frame where the towers are just mount to the frame and go back to the transmission or is that cross piece critical where the towers mount? Could it be set further back with the same effect or would it not be the same? I know it is important to go back to the transmission so if you hit something you don't snap the frame, but how critical are the cross members?