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Synthetic oils

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So can the oil change intervals be spaced out longer with synthetic oil when used in tractors? I'm sure they can but how many hours would it be. Or can it be judged by the condition/color of the oil. I have it in my 312-8 and my Craftsman.

Mike...with a case of oil price sticker shock...

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So if you cant go longer between oil changes is it really worth payin twice as much for the synthetic as the ol' fossil stuff?

Mike...

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And is anyone using it? What do ya think about it? Any difference in performance, fuel economy, ease of starting in winter...stuff like that.

Mike....full-o-questions....

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I have used Mobil-1 in my old Hemi (the 426-CID version) and liked it. The old RB Mopars run really hot and will coke the oil pretty quickly. Never did use it in my tractors, I suppose that I just never thought that it would help since it doesn't really have the chance to break down or heat up, or at least with my usage. I am sure it doesn't hurt though.

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Well I'm gonna keep using it in the Craftsman and the 312-8. Most of my tractors are hi-hour machines. The ones without hour meters look and sound like hi-hour machines :D so they will get regular oil.

Mike

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I use Amsoil 30 wt. in my Scott's (JD made) for last two oil changes, and I think it's running smoother, and I know a little cooler.Seems to start easier,too.

When I finish the W/Horse Gt-14, I'm restoring--I'm going to run engine a couple hours (am installing an hour meter) and then try a change with the Amsoil--as I don't know what, if any maintanence the PO did on her.

More pricey-yes, but I'm trying a little self-experiment with the syn. oils.In my "Yota truck, too--so far--very good !!

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Ok, next oil change I'm going to try it. Do they have straight 30 weight?

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If you are going to use Mobil 1 in an engine that has tappets like the K series, Mobil 1 Extended Performance is the oil to use. The SM rated Mobil 1 and other conventional SM oils have reduced amounts of Zinc and Phosporous to help meet emissions on automobiles but is detrimental for small engines with tappets as the zinc and phosporous acts as a lubricant for the valves. Mobil 1 motorcycle racing oil can also be used but it is about twice the price of Mobil 1 Extended Performance. If using conventional SAE30 use SJ rated oils and not SM. I called Mobil oil and spoke with their technical department to glean this bit of information as to what oil would would work in a 40 year old K181. Hope this helps. Kevin

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If you are going to use Mobil 1 in an engine that has tappets like the K series, Mobil 1 Extended Performance is the oil to use. The SM rated Mobil 1 and other conventional SM oils have reduced amounts of Zinc and Phosporous to help meet emissions on automobiles but is detrimental for small engines with tappets as the zinc and phosporous acts as a lubricant for the valves. Mobil 1 motorcycle racing oil can also be used but it is about twice the price of Mobil 1 Extended Performance. If using conventional SAE30 use SJ rated oils and not SM. I called Mobil oil and spoke with their technical department to glean this bit of information as to what oil would would work in a 40 year old K181. Hope this helps. Kevin

Hey, Kevin, welcome to the site. And thanks for the info.

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Correction/Addendum to what I wrote regarding the Mobil 1 oil. The Mobil 1 High Milage oil was recommended for use in air cooled tappet engines. I just changed the oil in my car this weekend and used Extended Performance and had that on my mind when I wrote. Sorry for the confusion. What do they say... measure twice, cut once? Kevin

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Synthetic is all I use and its all I will use now. Never was a one to want to pay more but I've read some interesting stuff on the subject and the benefits. I always break in with dino oil but once I have some hours on it I'll switch to synthetic. You can break in with synthetic, it just takes longer.

When my dealership changed my Passat's oil (before VW's recommendation to use synthetic) they always had a 3000 mile sticker. With full synthetic the change cycle is 5000. That is what I do, but I do it myself. I use Shell Rotella 5w40 full synthetic, I really like the product.

Cold start up is key and synthetic holds together better at high temps. In the 416-8 I am running Walmart SuperSyn 10w30 as 30wt is the recommended oil. Great price- I like Q and Castrol Syntech but much more $$$. I'm much more comfortable using synthetic in it, because it doesn't hold as much oil as say my Cub with 18hp Vanguard. The Onan I think only used a little over a qt. for a large engine.

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Kevin, the info you had on the SJ vs. SM motor oil reminds me of something I saw at another site a while back:

The story said the EPA had required all SM rated oils to remove up to 50% of the "anti-wear" additives. Don't quote me, but the problem was that those additives were shown to cause either clogging up, or at the very least, some type of degradation to catalytic converters in automobiles.

If the story was true, it is a classic government fix. Don't require auto makers to make better converters, just mandate oil companies to re-formulate thier products and pass the cost on to the consumer. Has anyone else heard anything about this?

Even most synthetics, like Mobil 1, are rated SM. The only thing I know to do in my truck is add oil treatments to try and keep the wear down. As for my tractors, I run straight 30 weight Rotella.

Kevin

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Im using the rotella synthetic 15w40. the diesel oil has up to this point, retianed all the anti-wear additives that we used to get in our convential engine oils. I also run it in my classic cars as well. I like the 15w40 syn for the cold start capabilities as well. Just my way of getting around additives at this point.

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You know I was just shoppin fer oil and almost bought some Rottela 15w-40. How long between oil swaps? Do you have an hour meter or just swap it every year or season or ??? Is it your winter oil or summer oil or both?

Mike.......with lots-o-questions..

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Synthetic or not, most of these engines don't have oil filters, and in my humble opinion, the oil change interval should not change. Impurities in the oil need to be drained off, they aren't filtered out.

Ok boys, totally disagree with me, I won't mind. But my oil will be changed as always. LOL

Dale

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No i guess id agree with that statement, if you dont have a filter, you should base your intervals off a consistant time base to remove the impurities. My unit has a filter and i run 15w40 all year round. Im always checking the condition of the oil vially (no analysis) but i have routinly changed the oil every year. Typically I change mine in the fall just as it gets cold, like about now. The tractor gets limited use during the winter (snow blowing duties) and then its dusted off for the summer and checked again. this time interval seems to work for me. I have 1200 hours on my 520h built in 1988.

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My rule of thumb, and I've heard of a lot of other people doing the same, synthetic if it has a filter, fossil if it doesn't with more frequent changes. Exceptions being racing engines such as lawn mower racers where every little bit helps.

Dale

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