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TEAM580

Breakage ?

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When the transaxle breaks, what exactly breaks?

Is anyone making better parts for them?

TIA.  Tom

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Hate to be so glib about this, but the weakest link (component) will be the first to go. Any moving part that has had a hard life is subject to failure if put under extreme stress.

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Depending what, and how it broke...
replacement parts should be available to repair the one you have. 
More info from you would help diagnose the issue.      
:text-feedback:

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I would like to know what breaks.

I'm sure there are common failures.

What fails on the differential?

Are any of the gears weaker than others?

I do not have a bad one but am going to use one for pulling and would like to know what I need to improve on.

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I dont think there really is much of a "common failure point" if you are using a 1.125" 8 pinion rear end.

Things I have seen (on this forum) break more than once, in order of the frequency in which I feel I see them occur:

- Sheer the woodruf key on hubs
<<insert huge gap in frequency of occurrence here>>
- Break an axle
- Internal Bearing failure
- Bolts start to loosen in differential, colliding with another gear causing mass internal destruction if not stopped immediately.
- Internal gear failure from 30+years of little to no maintenance or gear-mashing abuse.

These things are pretty beefy, but if you pull competitively you will break something. But it doesnt happen often enough that we have anyone making "stronger" transmission parts because of it. Just have some good condition spares laying around. None of the axle gears are available any more and the differential carrier bearing (known as the 1533) is also NLA and either requires good used replacements or some have creatively machined the case and differential to fit in a standard bearing. I doubt you would want to do that as it eats away some of the thickness of the trans case at that point.

Edited by bmsgaffer
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I have a 1983 C125 with 8 pinion, 1 1/8" axles.  I had a transmission failure last winter when plowing.  A differential bolt broke and ½ of the bolt got into the gears.  The other 3 bolts were loose.  http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/55562-c125-transmission-locks-up/   The only other failed parts have been the seals.   If someone hammers a hub to get it off of the axle the snap ring or end of axle will fail.  
Good Luck,
Joe


 

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I think what I am going to do for the puller is make a spool and use a one piece axle with keyways for a long key instead of  the half moon keys.  

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On ‎11‎/‎1‎/‎2015‎ ‎5‎:‎55‎:‎20‎, TEAM580 said:

I think what I am going to do for the puller is make a spool and use a one piece axle with keyways for a long key instead of  the half moon keys.  

 

Unless your going over 40hp not really worth the bother.   Used to be a guy making steel hubs and steel differential cases not sure if there still avaliable 

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I've had the misfortune of breaking stuff inside the tranny over the past few years while pulling...

 

The most common breakage I've had are the pinion gears inside the diff. Usually you get a warning when you start hearing a bit of crunching, then on your next pull, it all lets go with a big crunch.

These are in classes where we run 1000 lbs.

 

I should state I am using 3 speed tranny's with 1" axles and these have 4 pinions inside the diff. These are commonly known as the weaker WH tranny's.

The last one I broke, I removed all the broken pinions, and welded the axle gear to the diff housing on both sides. The side benefit is the rear end is now locked.

I've not have any problems since doing this (other than it's hard to steer now...lol)

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If you are pulling a Wheel Horse it is important to get your hands on a bevel gear transaxle. They were found in the old GT series and few others. The 8 pinion will work to a point but once you start getting the horsepower up and using 26x12x12 tires like we used you will trash the rear end just about every time out. Next you may need to get a heavier set of hubs or get a steel set made. 

       I pulled Wheel Horse for several years. We were getting around 30 - 35 hp out of our Kohlers at about 7,000rpm back in the late 70's and early 80's. We finally had to switch to Cub Cadet. We put our wheel Horse sheet metal on the cub. Hope this will guide you. I pulled for 39 years.

Be Very, Very careful with a welded rear end. In a stock class they will work OK but if you get in a modified class it can start wiping on you and throw you off. I have seen it. Not good!. The club I belonged to outlawed all locked rear ends back in the 80's. Be safe.

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