Retired Wrencher 4,876 #1 Posted October 8, 2015 This pulley was frozen on the shaft so bad that no heat would budge it after half way. They key was free set pin was out. So it was on the shaft to pulley. This was left out side. I had to use the chisels just to get to move a puller was no help. Once I got it out a way I used a blocks of would to take up the space. But still would not move past half way. So I decide to cut it. Once I had cut back a way using a block of wood [see marks on wood] under the pulley I used the biggest chisel to open it up. Then it finally came off. Beer time on this one. WWWOOOWWW. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,766 #2 Posted October 8, 2015 Holy schmidt! ....and I thought I had some tuffys in the day ... too bad ya had to wreck the pully.... anti seize next time! Enjoy the cold one 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 19,542 #3 Posted October 8, 2015 Congrats on winning that battle Gary!So I gotta ask....why did it HAVE TO come off?Mike........ 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,826 #4 Posted October 8, 2015 I have destroyed 4 pullers this past summer, So I feel your pain.As I restore my GT14, I am polishing every shaft and dosing with liberal amounts of anti-seize,Does not help those of us repairing or restoring now but should I ever need to pull pulleys, hubs or flywheels in the future or should someone else do so, it should make life a lot easier. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,159 #5 Posted October 8, 2015 HAH!! boy these horses can have some stuck on pieces - steering wheel/hubs come to mind.I had a hub in a situation similar to yours - I had got to the point where I said (between a lot of *&%#&^) that I was gonna get that *&%*^$ piece of &^%** off if it killed me!! I had the slot cut in it like you and it still wouldnt budge, I ended up cutting a 45 degree chunk out and it finally came off -- dangest thing. Course axle was ruined too... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedRanger 1,468 #6 Posted October 8, 2015 You Won!!!!! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487 #7 Posted October 8, 2015 I knew you would outsmart it. Job well done.Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennisThornton 4,769 #8 Posted October 8, 2015 You need a bigger "gas axe"! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857 horse 2,581 #9 Posted October 8, 2015 Good Job//!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #10 Posted October 8, 2015 I had to do basically the same thing on this engine I put on my RJ58, pulley wouldnt budge...chiseled at it forever, tried oiling it up real well, nothing...heat and nothing.....and finally just had to take the grinder n cut it off! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #11 Posted October 9, 2015 I thought I was the only person that had to fight stuff like this.Some things will fight you to the bitter end, but persistence will prevail! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,967 #12 Posted October 9, 2015 That beer would have come alot earlier for me! LOL, Glad you got it off without any other damage. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,876 #13 Posted October 9, 2015 Congrats on winning that battle Gary!So I gotta ask....why did it HAVE TO come off?Mike........ Mike redoing every thing. I had a new one to put on. Even with the puller it bent the pully. So from there it was shot. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,766 #14 Posted October 9, 2015 Ever try changing the seal with it still on Mike??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,876 #15 Posted October 9, 2015 Ever try changing the seal with it still on Mike??? Jim I never had. But I think it is pressed in from the back side. No I do not Think I have ever did that. But after sanding down the Shaft as you can see I have the new one on it was all the rust on the shaft from year of neglect. Take care. Gary B... Well I think I am all set now. I sanded down the crank with 80 grit paper.It was the rust on the crank from years of neglect being out side. Here is the new pulley. Cleaning the engine now getting ready for paint. Gary B... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian01 481 #16 Posted October 9, 2015 Remember to add a little grease to the shaft and bore of pulley before reassembly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,766 #17 Posted October 9, 2015 Which tractor of yours is this off of? ..657?You get a chance I would like to see pics of your 10 & 1257's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,876 #18 Posted October 10, 2015 Jim this is on a 607.The 1057 is all apart being restored that is next years project. The 1257 is all original never been touched. I bought this from the original owner. Here is a pick of the 1257 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #19 Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) You're painting it as a complete, assembled unit?What is your proceedure Gary... how are you prepping it for paint? Edited October 10, 2015 by AMC RULES Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,876 #20 Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) You're painting it as a complete, assembled unit?What is your proceedure Gary... how are you prepping it for paint? Craig I will be doing pretty much of the engine not sure how far up the jug I want to go yet. I will wire brush the head to take some of the stains off. I now have the breather box gaskets with the mesh filter for the reed valve. So when this done I will just paint after cleaning. I will use Ford red engine paint. I also have full set of carb gaskets. I think it will look like the 606 I had less the white seat, and painting the hole tractor. I will go in the garage and post a pick of the engine before painting ok.Take Care Bud. Gary B. Edited October 10, 2015 by T1257 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,876 #21 Posted October 10, 2015 You're painting it as a complete, assembled unit?What is your proceedure Gary... how are you prepping it for paint? Ok Craig here are a few shots of the engine. Still not sure if want to paint all if I don`t I will wire bush the jug to take out stains. I had an old rusty shroud so I came up with cutting in half to cover fly wheel. I have in the past painted it all I think this time I will pass on that? See Ya. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #22 Posted October 10, 2015 Yeah, there you go Gary... those before/during picts, I find often times, more valuable than the after shots. Think it's necessary to prime first, or just shoot the color and be done with it?Wondering if the engine's heat is going to affect the final product. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Retired Wrencher 4,876 #23 Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Yeah, there you go Gary... those before/during picts, I find often times, more valuable than the after shots. Think it's necessary to prime first, or just shoot the color and be done with it?Wondering if the engine's heat is going to affect the final product. Here you go Craig. 1st coat.I use 500 degree engine enamel paint it usually stays buy Dupli-Color#1605 Ford Red this also is resistant to oils. I do not prime I just spray it on. As long as it is clean. Close enough I say it is not being Judged. Edited October 10, 2015 by T1257 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #24 Posted October 10, 2015 The carburetor on one of those JD's I just bought was so bad I actually threw it away .When I popped the float-bowl off the float & needle came with it frozen in a substance that looked like yellow 2 part epoxy .I just did a hook shot into the trash can . Not even worth the bother . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
