Finally Bought a Round Hood

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Van, the drive belt # is 9691, that is a 70" A belt, either a 4L700 or A68. I wouldn't be too worried about a new belt without having a belt guard, the guard is a big part of having the belt stop when declutched. The part numbers of the 552 and 701 belt guards are not the same, but that may just be because they have different decals on them; just have to try it. You can adjust the brake band per the manual and see if that helps.

Looking forward to seeing the 701 and you.

Van, the drive belt # is 9691, that is a 70" A belt, either a 4L700 or A68. I wouldn't be too worried about a new belt without having a belt guard, the guard is a big part of having the belt stop when declutched. The part numbers of the 552 and 701 belt guards are not the same, but that may just be because they have different decals on them; just have to try it. You can adjust the brake band per the manual and see if that helps.

Looking forward to seeing the 701 and you.

Thank you for the part numbers Mr. Schmidt. I was talking to Walfish on the phone today and he said the same thing about needing the belt guart to stop the drive belt from turning the transmission pully when the clutch is engaged. So I have learned something new about Roundhoods today.
Well I should report on what I did to it today;
I changed the engine oil twice. The old oil was full right up to the top line on the dipstick but very dirty. On the first oil change I put a few ounces of Dextron automatic transmission fluid in with the new engine oil to break up some of the carbon and other deposits in the crankcase that had been building up over the years. I let it the engine run and get up to operating temp then drained it again and went back with Lubrication Engineers motor oil. I love that stuff!
Then I drained the transmission oil. That oil seriously needed to be drained and replaced with new. It was very milky from years of water mixed with the gear oil. I replaced it with some cheap Wall Mart 90weight but will change it again before Winter and put Lucas in there at that time. I like the Lucas brand because It seems to condition the rear axle seals as well as quiet the sound of rotating straight cut transmisson gears.
Then I put some electric motor oil in the oiling port of the starter/generator. That unit seems a l ittle noisy to me. Does anyone have a good trick up their sleeve for lubing the bushings or bearings in the S/G without taking it all apart?
Then I found a nice spring out of my general spring collection and fitted it to the the clutch linkage to take the slack out of the combination clutch/brake pedal.
Last, I had noticed the ignition coil looked in poor shape, and the connections there were not the best so I replaced that coil and the condenser with a spare set that I had lput back in my stash of Kohler parts. The contact points looked in good shape so I cleaned them up and checked to make sure they were gapped correctly and now I have a nice spark at the business end of the spark plug.
During that process I also richened up the idle circuit on the carb just a tad. I have to get whats left of the old gas out of the tank and put in some fresh non-ethanol gasoline. That I will do one night this week.
Well, thats where we are with the 701 today. I'm looking forward to trying the 552 belt guard Bert has offered to pass forward to the 701. I'll report back on whether or not it fits properly after I get back from the meet and greet.

 

[Brian01 481]

Oh, just bubble wrap it and send it fed-ex to me 

[Bert 760]

As far as the belt guard goes the tab on them that bolts to the engine is a bit different, but I remember seeing a thread on here about welding the proper tab on. Its easy to make it appear close to original even to a trained eye

[Ken B 3,116]

Very Nice Van! As far as appearances go all ya need is a Mrs. Buckrancher seat cover on it and she's done!

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Very Nice Van! As far as appearances go all ya need is a Mrs. Buckrancher seat cover on it and she's done!

Thank you for the information on the seat cover Ken. That sounds like a great idea! One of her seat covers would be a nice finishing touch
Also something I found interesting that I've not seen before on a little tractor;  The left rear wheel hub is a five bolt design. The right rear hub is the old three bolt design. I'm wondering if the three bolt hubs were prone to breakage, and thats why the five bot hubs were incorporated into production. Certainly whoever built the transmission at the factory did not install the very last of the three bolt hubs on one side and the very first of the five bolt hubs on the other side ??? LOL

Edited October 5, 2015 by Wheel-N-It

[AMC RULES 36,941]

At some point, it may have been broken when removed to replace a seal  
but, from the factory...you should have a three bolt hub there Van.  

[Bert 760]

At some point, it may have been broken when removed to replace a seal  
but, from the factory...you should have a three bolt hub there Van. 

 

I was thinking the same thing. 
Ive been around  sense I was a boy and have never saw a three bolt hub break under a load. 
 

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

At some point, it may have been broken when removed to replace a seal  
but, from the factory...you should have a three bolt hub there Van. 

 

Well if thats the case its gonna be removed again cause I discovered yesterday evening that same left side seal is leaking gear oil. That may become a Winter project.

Edited October 7, 2015 by Wheel-N-It

[Racinbob 10,256]

I would definitely replace the seal. I don't see the stop leak standing a chance. I don't like the stuff but I guess it does work on stationary seals sometimes but not on a one that's trying to seal to a spinning axle.

added 10/08/15:

Folks that came in late on this thread are gonna wonder why I mentioned stop leak. I could totally change this post or delete it but I'd rather leave them scratching their heads .....

Edited October 8, 2015 by Racinbob

[AMC RULES 36,941]

When you do pop that seal off Van...
check to see if there is any slop in that axle.     
Give it a wiggle...up, down, left right...see what happens.  

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

When you do pop that seal off Van...
check to see if there is any slop in that axle.     
Give it a wiggle...up, down, left right...see what happens.  

Thank you Craig I will. Can you give me a part number for that seal, that is if you have bought one recently and have that number handy? I'd like to go ahead and get a pair to have on hand for that day when I can set other stuff aside and work on removing the 5 bolt hub to expose the seal.

[stevasaurus 22,229]

Van, go back up to one of your posts and delete that comment about trying Stop Leak in your transmission.  It only takes a few minutes to replace that seal.  Anybody that even thinks about putting Stop Leak into a Wheel Horse transmission ought to be banned from owning a horse!!!  I wouldn't even think about doing something like that...even if I was selling the Horse to someone I did not like.   

[953 nut 51,511]

Didn't the old time used car dealers use saw dust? I'm pretty sure that or draining all the oil out would stop the leak!                 

Edited October 7, 2015 by 953 nut

[Brian01 481]

Sawdust would deff. Quieten it down.....for awhile. 

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Van, go back up to one of your posts and delete that comment about trying Stop Leak in your transmission.  It only takes a few minutes to replace that seal.  Anybody that even thinks about putting Stop Leak into a Wheel Horse transmission ought to be banned from owning a horse!!!  I wouldn't even think about doing something like that...even if I was selling the Horse to someone I did not like.   

OK Steve, that post has been edited LOL I don't want to be banned from owning a Wheel Horse, that would be more than I could bear! Please don't take away my right to keep and bear Wheel Horses ! That is an amendment to the US Constitution isn't it?

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

Didn't the old time used car dealers use saw dust? I'm pretty sure that or draining all the oil out would stop the leak!                 

Sawdust would deff. Quieten it down.....for awhile. 

Somebody here has been watching too many old black and white Andy Griffith Show reruns LOL

[JPWH 5,295]

Very nice looking tractor! Nice find.
On your s/g, after seeing mine on the inside I would recommend taking it apart and clean real good then determine if more is needed. It's easy to do and then you know what you have.

[stevasaurus 22,229]

I'm sorry Van, but it just scares me when some bad ideas are sometimes presented.  It's just like the Democrats vs the Republicans...if you say something enough it becomes true in the mind of those that do not know better.  Sawdust would be better....I can't believe I just said that.    Do it right the first time.  That's the ticket. 

[953 nut 51,511]

I'm sorry Van,.  Sawdust would be better....I can't believe I just said that.    Do it right the first time.  That's the ticket. 

Steve,   Just a bad joke!

[stevasaurus 22,229]

Don't be sorry Richard...it is true about the sawdust. 

[Brian01 481]

MY RJ58 tranny was leaking right where the sideplate meets tranny, right behind the slot hitch(hard to get to..I seen where someone had tried to weld it before...I wire brushed and sanded it really well...bought some JB waterweld...its some good stuff and is resistant to almost all chemicals (gas, oil, grease etc..it comes in a small tube, you cut desired amount, kneed it with your fingers like dough, and press it on the place firmly...and unlike regular JB, it sets and cures within an hr...then you can sand it, drill it or whatever...mines holding up great so far. No drippage (lol) And it was leaking pretty good too...say I pull it in the garage n park it...come back out 5 or 10 min later and there would be a puddle under the tranny.

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

MY RJ58 tranny was leaking right where the sideplate meets tranny, right behind the slot hitch(hard to get to..I seen where someone had tried to weld it before...I wire brushed and sanded it really well...bought some JB waterweld...its some good stuff and is resistant to almost all chemicals (gas, oil, grease etc..it comes in a small tube, you cut desired amount, kneed it with your fingers like dough, and press it on the place firmly...and unlike regular JB, it sets and cures within an hr...then you can sand it, drill it or whatever...mines holding up great so far. No drippage (lol) And it was leaking pretty good too...say I pull it in the garage n park it...come back out 5 or 10 min later and there would be a puddle under the tranny.

I've used the regular JB Weld before to repair fuel tanks and other things but have not tried the Waterweld yet. Sounds like another good product. Thank you for the heads up on this!

Edited October 10, 2015 by Wheel-N-It

[squonk 38,844]

Don't you guys know that bananna peels work better than sawdust? 

[Wheel-N-It 2,967]

OK just my luck! The transmission is somehow stuck between gears and I cannot get it to go in neutral or anything! The gearshifter wants to lean all the way to the left sorta. What can I do to correct this problem?
This happened right before dark this evening. I had to pick up the back end of the tractor and push it back in the shop. This was after using a come along to winch up a Massey Ferguson 135 tractor onto my equipment trailer to taake it back to my house and try to get it started for a good friend, so I was not happy about having to pick up the back end of the 701 and move it like a wheel barrow after spending the whole afternoon winching the tractor by hand and pulling a trailer on the interstate that is completely beat up from road construction people who have no idea what they are doing!
GRRRRRR!!! Edited October 12, 2015 by Wheel-N-It

[AMC RULES 36,941]

Remove the shifter boot, back out the set screw, then pull the shifter handle out Van...
take a peek down in there.
Bob supplied a pict in this thread...
shows how your forks should be aligned for it to be in the neutral position. 
http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/58945-552-trans/