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I am hoping one of you knowledgeable lot will be able to help me out. I am fixing, as a surprise for my father, the ignition (that he took apart initially!) on our Wheel Horse 312-8. As we are in the UK we have struggled to get the ignition and loom which would have made this slightly easier. as the previous loom had melted slightly and a few wires came 'melted together'. And it is here where my problem lies. I have managed to get an ignition from a reputable provider here in the UK, but failed to get the loom. After visiting various local dealers they recommended I just connect the wires using spade connectors.
From images of the ignition prior, I have been able to connect most of the wires into the new ignition with ease however where some of the wires were twisted and burned together I am struggling to work out which wires go to the remaining terminals. I have found various manuals (most helpful one attached) and think I have followed them well. However I am left over with a small red wire of which I am unsure as to where it goes.
The three wires I was left with were: a white wire, a large red wire, and a small red wire. I know that the small red one but join either the big red or the white but I am unsure.
What I would have ideally is someone being able to send across a photo to ensure that I can't get this wrong or to be able to say definitively where it joins. Furthermore if you can see any basic errors you feel I may have made an help on that would be graciously accepted.
This is my first post but as I try to fix more and more parts it certainly won't be my last!
Hope you can help gang!
***This is all the info I have on the mower:
Toro 312 - 8 Cast Iron Kohler 12 HP Engine
42" side discharge
Manufactured circa 88/89
Vin/Model No: 78346
Serial Number: 3900161
Parts & Service Manual - E1 12K802/ R1-12 K01 8 Speed ***
Well, I put the washers on the flywheel side of the engine and that seems to be working better as far as the starter to flywheel, but the engine won't start. I have a new coil, condenser, plug wires, plugs (not sure about the correct gap though), and a new electric fuel pump with filter. The mower ran one time and mowed the yard a month ago but has not started since then. It started one the first crank when I put all that in new. Is it possible the coil has failed? I even put the old plugs back in to see if that was the issue. The were not burnt. What should I check to test possible failures of the coil or fuel? I think the fuel is going to the carb but not sure if this is enough pressure? Not ready to give up yet...
Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered.
It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago...
With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end...
I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off.
There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750...
Thoughts and experience?
My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.
I tested the clutch switch. good
Replaced the key switch.
Seat switch is bypassed.
I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before.