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Brian01

Brake pedal Set-Up

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Can't get enough....been cruisin' around the yard on it all mornin' lol

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Just been pondering....does anyone know exactly how long an RJ58 lify cable is, from crimped end to crimped end? Thinking of building me so I can use my rear hitch... And don't have $50 to spend on a new one right now.

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Steve, I hate to hijack Brian's post, but I would love to see some more pictures of that hybrid round hood with the extended frame and an eight speed trans-axle.

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No worries 953 nut.

I still have had no luck finding out length of RJ lift cable.

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Just thought I'd share this pic with my new throttle control on.

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Well I know it's not really the proper place for this but...got the lift cwblefrom slammer n put it on, and this morning I built some weights for the front, painted them and got them on...

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OK I know kinda old thread but I need a little advise...I made a brake rod out of a piece of all thread..it works fine but my pedal is way back. How can I make it be like straight up? Different spring? Longer brake rod? I know the suburban 400 is supposed to be like 20 7/8" long..the one I built is like 18 or so.

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The clutch arm looks to be pulled a bit farther than it should be. Mine doesn't go quite that far without a belt and the idler arm against the real belt guard bolt. Is the idler assembly all good? The spring won't change things. As far as the rod length, a longer one would compound the problem. The issue there is the clutch pedal. It's not right. Here's a picture of mine and the difference is obvious.:)

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Oh geez! I forgot we are dealing with an RJ/Suburban hybrid here. That clutch pedal is for the RJ setup. I'm thinking the easiest fix is to find a Suburban pedal or modify that one for the proper geometry.

Edited by Racinbob

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Yes I weldeda tab at the bottom of pedal, as shown in your pic there, that's how I have it connected, so that shouldn't matter either

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No, not at all as long as it works. It's just that you'll have a longer pedal throw to engage/disengage the clutch. You can see the angle in the vertical part of the pedal making the rod connection further forward. There lies the issue in the rod length. :)

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So I need a longer brake rod? Correct?

I think I tried that though, and the pedl broke all the way over before clutch would enguge

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No, not with that pedal. A longer one will only make the pedal fall further back and cause the problem you mentioned. A shorter one will bring it forward some. But, a shorter one will also mean the pedal will have to be pushed further forward to disengage. You could make another one and use a threaded trunnion so it will be adjustable. You could weld a longer tab on the bottom making the rod connection farther away from the pivot point effectively making the pedal throw shorter. Basically, the geometry is wrong with the hybrid setup but it can be overcome.

Edited by Racinbob
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OK I fixed it, somewhat. Moved the rod up one hole on the brake arm. And put the spring in the first hole, where the rod "was"...

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Interesting. Those extra holes are aftermarket. But if it works there's no harm done. :)

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Yeah it has kinda "soft " brakes that way, but may be able to adjust it out.

But does work....looks a llittle better too!

I actually need a brake rod, instead of all thread, because it "gives" whenever you hit the brake.

Edited by Brian01

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You need lift trunnion that ur piece of all thread can screw through and it will let adjust were the pedal is and how far it can travel

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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The 60 tractors had a fixed length rod. The 61's had a threaded trunnion. Since, as manufactured at the time, only one hole to choose from the adjustable only changed the pedal position. The travel was determined on the back end. Belt stretch and brake adjustment. There's not much forgiveness in these oldies. :)

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Yeah, itd be nice if there was a "stop" on the brake pedal, so it cant spin all the way around..I Painted the engine Pulley this morning, gave it a little something ...lol

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Hey, was thinking of trying to find a different spring for the brakes, as you can see in the pics, the one I'm using is really to big around....looks hiddious. Can someone tell me what the correct length spring I need?

Also would like some opinions....I was thinking about removing the engine and painting the block and all? Or should I just leave it be?

I need to get the ol k90 done and put it on there. Is what I need to do.

Edited by Brian01

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