Jump to content
Horse46

K341 rebuild questions

Recommended Posts

Horse46

My C-101 motor swap n refresh had a bit of a set back yesterday. I had to renew the sump gasket on the K341 as it was leaking oil, but I didn't expect to find this as the engine was running fine.
Obviously one part of it is the con rod, but the rest I don't know. There doesn't appear to be any other damage, but I think a rebuild is the only answer.

Has any one used the rebuild kits from that auction site, seller bat4kids? Seems reasonably priced and he ships to the UK.IMG_5011.thumb.JPG.0ad6e3e78532beb418050IMG_5014.thumb.JPG.818448a3276d5a2032934

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
slammer302

It might be hard to see but i would check the governor gear the little weights on it has a small roll pin in them that might be were that came from as long as the oil was full it probably would of lasted a while since their still is sum dipper left on the rod. I have used the kits off of ebay on 16hp kohler it has worked fine for a summer but only time will tell    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

The PO did say when he bought it that the PO had done something to the governor. I wonder if that fell down and then the con rod fin hit it?
As I said it was running fine, apart from not re starting when warm.

Another question, the gears that have the half gears either side are they supposed to move side to side?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Those dippers break all the time from metal fatigue. pull out those balance gears and trow them away.do a complete tear down and inspect everything.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Those dippers break all the time from metal fatigue. pull out those balance gears and trow them away.do a complete tear down and inspect everything.

Are those the half gears? Throw them away?
I do intend to strip as much as I can, I don't really want to but I see no other option.
There is a machine shop at my work place (training school for the RAF) so I could probably get it honed or bored, but do I need to if it was ok before, as no rattles no smoke?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
953 nut

I have used kits from bat4kids and had good results, kits are good and they include some assembly tips.

Good luck.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
slammer302

I got rid of the balancing gears when i did my rebuild they often fail and ruin a motor when the do plus i hear their almost impossible to get back timed unless you have a special tool from kohler. The only way to know if the bore is good is to check it with a bore gauge if it does check out good i would just hone it and and put in a new piston rod and rings and if you have to replace the governor gear it will have to be completely tore down any way.     

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gregg'shorses

The balance gears can be installed without the tool, if you follow the instructions to the letter.  PLUS some " colorful language" doesn't hurt. :lol:

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Shynon

I would do a complete disassemble and inspection, measure and rebuild, throw out balance gears. Auction site kits are good as long as machinist does his job correctly and you assemble in clean environment. If I get a chance I will post pic of what a balance gear will do to a perfectly good motor.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Wheel-N-It
The guys are correct regarding deleting the balance gears as part of your rebuild. I have done that as well with a K341 in a 1975 Cub Cadet 1650. I could not tell any difference whatsoever regarding vibration. I still have the Cub Cadet and it still runs great!
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

OK thanks for all the info guys.
Now I'm no mechanic but I do have a bit of experience, but only on cars and motorbikes. I've never done a rebuild of pulled pistons or valves.
I've done head gaskets on cars, I've done cams on bikes but thats about it.
How hard is this, can a novice pull it off, I will have to get the cylinder done professionally but the rest will be all me.

One other thing, for now, where can I get the bits for the governor if that is what has broken, are they still available?

Mike 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
meadowfield

Missed this thread.... Bakt4kids is great to deal with, the engine rebuild kits are great. I rebuilt a magnum 16 earlier in the year.

I didn't bother with the balance gears and it runs great - it was the shims from those that had gone round the engine a good few hours and caused the damage.

I will add... I should have had the crank pin re ground, I thought for the low duty cycle bendy would have then a few thou of wear would be acceptable. I was wrong, it knocks more now even with a new con rod than before I rebuilt it!! :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Could this be a shim from the balance gears?IMG_5019.thumb.JPG.ea088eeff9888ab33e6d0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Looking at a governor kit I think the bits are from the governor the washer too.
As far as I can see apart from the  con rod, and the bits I think are from the governor there is no other damage, I'm inclined to just replace those bit, junk the balance gears and sew it back up. It was running fine before hand no knocks no smoke.

How much of the engine do I need to strip to get to the governor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
prondzy

To get to the govenor you need to pull all tins off, oil pan, pull crankshaft and bearing plate and pull the camshaft to access the governor. You might be able to see it with oil pan removed for visual confirmation only.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Bloody hell! No quick fix then.:(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Yes, I can see the governor wheel its almost falling past the gear on the cam shaft, I think it's completely off it's mounting, I reckon I could prize it out with a screwdriver.

Do I really need a governor if I'm not revin the arse of it?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

Yes you need it. the throttle cable hooks to the governor lever. You open the throttle and the actual throttle plate is moved by the governor spring tension.With out that it doesn't take much to over rev the motor

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

How common a fault are the governor gear and balance gears letting go?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Another Q.
The bolts in the con rodt cap, do these need replacing or will they not be stretched? Don't want them coming undone after a rebuild!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

New rod bolts torque to 22 Ft Lb, used at 17 Ft Lb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

New rod bolts torque to 22 Ft Lb, used at 17 Ft Lb

Cheers for that :handgestures-thumbupright:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

I ordered my parts tonight, should be with me in a week.
Would it be wise to wait for the parts to arrive before I start breaking the motor down, I only get about 3hrs on a Friday to work on it so time is precious?
I'm only changing the governor, I've taken advise from an engine guy and he said the motor looks new inside, and he has opened hundreds of engines in the last 35 yrs. He agreed that the balance gears were better off in the bin, as he has seen a few make a mess of other small engines.
It's not going to have a hard life, maybe 2hrs a week in the finer weather cutting my lawn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Horse46

Right or wrong I took the plunge today, I'm down to the case bar the valves and a bearing!
I was hoping I could just disconnect the con rod cap and push the piston out of the way and swing the crankshaft out, but nooo. I even tried just sticking the top out, but noooo. I just couldn't get enough clearance, it has to come out.
I have a bit of de coking to do, looks to have been running a bit rich looking at the valves.
I have cleaned as I've gone along, bit of a clean freak, but I bet it will pay dividends come reasembly.
With the balance gears removed there is going to be a big empty space left behind.
I've taken a few pictures as I went along, some for you guys and some so I know how it all goes back together.
I just have to clean and re oil all my parts and wait for my new bit to arrive.

image.thumb.jpg.cf3a43ab37218ccd7cd7bb40image.thumb.jpg.d2eba2cbbef758cf7a7f45d6image.thumb.jpg.c3baabbe87fe2a755adaf4a0image.thumb.jpg.ae87f8e22080321de8dba774image.thumb.jpg.34e7d512b246937a8d66c2d9image.thumb.jpg.6c6d4b9a4f7371273ff27b92image.thumb.jpg.d5b87f6832716c1cacd03986image.thumb.jpg.01feeb54b6a2fc6c8feb6c58

image.thumb.jpg.c4abed66eac259a5c440cf7dimage.thumb.jpg.4a09b3fbd339a53a9a9f48daimage.thumb.jpg.097e608ae85e3b8983c5f936

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...