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Kiss4aFrog

Peerless 820-024 stripped brake caliper mount hole

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Kiss4aFrog

1996 WH 265-6 with a Peerless 820-024. Bought it knowing it didn't have brakes but wasn't told some .......... ......... of ...... and his family too had been in there mucking things up. Not having brakes wasn't a big thing and ordered the pads along with a number of other things it needed before we go out to the yard and do anything.
Pulled the wheel and started taking things apart. The bolts for the caliper didn't feel good coming out. Cleaned up everything, freed up the pins and greased them and started reassembly and one bolt didn't tighten up. That's when I pulled up the parts diagram as the brake arm looked wrong and sure enough it's some kind of backyard, way too thin and no bends to engage the pins to apply the brakes even when I get this back together. It's like someone made a fake arm just for show ?? Who does that ??

I can heli coil them but an wondering how much more hole might be there to go a size bigger on the two bolts and 1/4" ?? deeper into the casting.

Anyone with any experience in repairing this ?? I'm in no hurry as this is a back up for the back up.so time is on my side. Really interested in someone knowing what kind of room there is from the inside of the case to whatever is closest to were I'd like to put a hole. If I pierce the case I can just use a sealant on the threads as the 00 grease in there isn't under any pressure to get out.
 

150828 Fake brake arm 2b wheel horse 265-6.jpg

150828 Fake brake arm 1b wheel horse 265-6.jpg

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stevasaurus

I have not been inside a Peerless transmission...yet, but from the number of 3 piece uni-drives that I have been in, the space does very from one hole to the next, and from little to no room for a longer bolt.   I would take a good look at your schematic, determine what if any sliding gears or other moving parts are close enough to interfere...take an awl or narrow screw driver...stick it in there and see if it hits anything.  The coil thingy may just work for you.  BTW...they make different lengths of those coils.  Whatever you try, when you are done, put the rear end on blocks and turn the input shaft by hand in all gears.  :)

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Kiss4aFrog

Thank you for the response. I forgot I do have a broken trans out of the the JD 160 sitting out in the shed. Not the exact model but close enough so I know what I'm working with. Took a good look at it and I think I'll be safe going a size bigger and out to 1.5 inches without going through the case wall.
Pulled the brake arm but it's at a 45 deg. angle from what I need. I did manage to finally source a new brake arm for $15 and that will work for me.
 

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stevasaurus

I would like to see a couple of pictures of where on the trans you are talking about.  Thanks  :)

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Kiss4aFrog

It is the forward brake caliper mount. There are two bolts that hold it on. They are #42 in the diagram. The red line is where it goes.
 

transmission bolt.gif

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stevasaurus

Dang, there is a lot of poop in that bucket, but it kind of looks like there is some meat where those screws go.  Do you think you could weld or fill that hole with a like JB Weld for aluminum and then drill and re-tap?  :)

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Kiss4aFrog

From what I've seen, I think the best thing to do is go bigger on the bolt. Drill and bottom tap the hole and I should be golden. Might do the other side while I'm in there since I'll have the tools out.

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stevasaurus

Sounds good, but you gatta let us know if it works out.  Just thinking about the next guy.  :)

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stevasaurus

Sounds good, but you gatta let us know if it works out.  Just thinking about the next guy.  :)

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