kpinnc 10,676 #1 Posted January 10, 2008 Well, it's coming along. I'll have to get some pics up later, but I thought I'd start this now. I'm surprised how well it is progressing, so I'm a little giddy... The lower part of the hitch, where the lower arms mount, is finished and on the tractor. I'm using lower arms from a D-180, so that much, and the hydraulic cylinder, is genuine WH. The rest that is being changed is all fabricated. The lift arms are all made up, and the upper bracket (that supports the lift arms and cylinder) is coming along nicely. Of course, due to the top link, I'm gonna have to cut a rear fender. I'm using a spare I have, because I just hate cutting sheetmetal. At least it looks pretty nice with the notch cut out in the back. I'm using a single hydraulic cylinder, mounted in the rear, so I will have available down pressure on whatever implement goes back there. I'm also using a lift cable in reverse- from the jackshaft on the lift arms to the jackshaft mounted in the tower for the mower deck. I figure I won't need down pressure up there, just a return spring for when there isn't a deck mounted... Anyway, I'll try and have pics up in a day or two. Sorry for talking about it without showing it. My camera is full, and my wife won't let me delete any pics. I guess I'm gonna have to just buy a seperate SD card for red stuff. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #2 Posted January 10, 2008 Sounds interesting Kevin, look forward to seeing the pics. Is your lower mount a D or GT14 peice? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337 #3 Posted January 10, 2008 Kevin, It does sound interesting. I can't wait for the pictures. It sounds like a good project. The guys over on wfm are always fabricating something, but mostly for their hydraulic tractors like the JD 140. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,676 #4 Posted January 10, 2008 Stephen, I made the lower mount myself. It is somewhat similar to the GT14 I guess. Terry, one of the biggest reasons I wanted to do it was because so many people said it wouldn't be worth much using a tractor with 12 inch wheels. There's another thread here that has quite a few opinions on the subject. With so many tractors having 3 points that use 15 inch wheels, I figure 1 and a half inches higher up off the ground can't be that big of a deal. Hopefully, I won't be eating crow... I think the tractors with 3 point hitches are awesome, and I just had to try and have one. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #5 Posted January 10, 2008 Kevin I was probably one of those nay sayers. That was what I was always told though....that a tractor with 23" tires sat to low. Then I see the Sears,early DB riders, & a JD 140H3 at the Wapack,OH fall swap meet I drooled over with a 3 point. Not sure now why Wheel Horse only offered it on the larger tractors? Possibly because the design of the rear fender? I have a small "Sears" size 3 point I intend to install on one of my short frames...it's pictured in another thread. Kevin yours will be something else since you made it...I bought mine off a buddy of mine "WH867". What kind of implements do you intend to use on it? Looking forward to the pics. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg B. 1 #6 Posted January 10, 2008 Kevin, You certainly have my attention. Best of luck, in this endeavor. Greg B. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,676 #7 Posted January 11, 2008 Stephen, if you were a "naysayer" or not, I can't remember. It's OK even if you were. I'm a knucklehead, and telling me "it won't work" just motivates me. If you did say it wouldn't work well, then thank you. It sure does look like it will work OK so far... I've got a Brinly dual gang disc set made up that looks very much like the DD-1000 model, but I welded the brackets for the hitch pins too close together, so it's gonna need some tweaking before I use it. It's an easy fix, hopefully. I talked with a guy today who has 3 Brinly cat 0 implements. He has the cultivator set, and the 12" moldboard plow, and the rear drag blade. I'm not sure if I'll make him an offer on any of those yet, but if I do, it'll be the cultivator. That thing is pretty huge! I already have a 10" plow, but it's the sleeve hitch type. Pop has a Sears Suburban with the three point. He's got quite a few implements too. That tractor really tears the ground up for what it is. I think the Sears hitch setup works very well. They certainly sold enough of them! I would think that your 1045 would be much better suited to adding the hitch, given the rear fender setup on it. I am gonna have to cut the rear fender on my tractor to make it all fit, but I do have a spare one, so I'm OK with it. Truthfully, the rear fender is the part that has kept me from having this done a month ago. I know the round fender tractors, and the "Black Hoods" with the fiberglass rear fenders would be good candidates for a three point hitch, at least considering the room back there on those models. Not sure why WH never made them. Maybe testing mine out will help me understand! Hopefully, it's gonna work well. If not, then we'll know why they didn't do it! Greg, thanks! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #8 Posted January 11, 2008 Kevin...I don't think I could bring myself to modify the back of the 1045. You have me thinking ideas about my 3 point setup though. At one time I had started a project tractor useing a raider dash tower with a pre 64 tunnel to make a C series with round fenders...that would work pretty slick. The C series with the fixed rear fenders & the gas tanks under the hood would be another good canidate...all kinds of free space under them. The Bronco has the pivoting fender & the tunnel sets of the back farther makeing it a little more tricky to mount the top link. Even if you do have to trim those fenders can still be found. Looking forward to seeing it & curious to see your reversed lift cable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
combatmp29r 27 #9 Posted January 11, 2008 Kevin, I agree totally with the telling me it won't work comment. Thats all I heard when I started the V18 project. I'm excited to see your 3point project. I've thought about puting an old Sears typr 3 point on a horse. Yours will be so much better though seeing as how you built it like you wanted it instead of adapting something else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #10 Posted January 11, 2008 Kevin if someone saying no is the encouragement you need to prove them wrong.....then you can't make a straight frame Wheel Horse with front wheel assist, You won't make the show in PA, ...um am I being more encouraging? :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,337 #11 Posted January 11, 2008 As for the 3 point not working on a tractor with 23" tires, I'm not sure about that one. Even with the thread that cover that, I'm still not sure I'm convinced either way. JD has 3 point hitches on their 140 and 300 series, both series uses 23" tires. Kevin, I hope your's works out. It is a very good project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
combatmp29r 27 #12 Posted January 11, 2008 Terry I agree about the 23" tire thing. JD and Sears made too many 23" tired tractiors with 3 point for it not to work. I think WH just wanted to use the 3 point as a selling factor on the Ds and Large Cs. Just my 2cents :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,676 #13 Posted January 12, 2008 Hey Stephen, you wouldn't have to modify anything on the 1045. With the rear fenders you have, it could all be "bolt-on", with no mods to the tractor. If it weren't for the rear fender on the Bronco, mine would all be bolted on. Just a thought... Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #14 Posted January 12, 2008 Kevin the 3 point I have actually bolts up at the fender pivot on top & has a modified rear axle bracket to hold it at the bottom. I'm guessing it came of a early tractor with HYD lift...there is a bar for mine that runs just over the left axle & bolts onto the rockshaft from the outside. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,676 #15 Posted January 12, 2008 I like that setup Stephen. I think it'll work well for you. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #16 Posted January 12, 2008 Just something I came up with on my many trades with "WH867". At this point I'm not sure what I'll stick it on when it's all said & done. Figured I'd throw the pic back on hear & explain how it's set up. Looking forward to seeing yours though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,676 #17 Posted January 12, 2008 Looking forward to seeing it & curious to see your reversed lift cable. Steven, I think I may just use both cylinders and drop the cable setup. If I use it, I'd have to "spring load" the front lift bellcrank in the down position to keep tension on the cable when I don't have a mower deck on it. I don't think I'm gonna want to have something like that up front near the drive belt. If it broke, I'd have a bit of a mess... The only thing I'm wondering is if I use only one lift valve, would I blow the plunger seals in a cylinder if they get out of sync... Anyway, it's still coming along, but it's SLOW. I got the lower cylinder mount finished tonight, and welded it to the lower "hitch". The toolbox (with the upper pivot mounts for the lift arm shaft) and the top link mount is all that's left to finish up. I hope to have them done this weekend. So far, it's all bolt on. The only mod to the tractor is gonna be the rear fender. I got a spare, so that'll be OK. I'm out of practice too with my welding. There are a few Pterodactyl turds on it to clean up... Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nick 13 #18 Posted January 12, 2008 Kevin, Every time I change the bucket to forks on the loader the cylinders get out of sync. One cylinder moves out faster until it stops then the other catches up. Can't say if over time it will hurt anything on your lift system. If you have room maybe a selector valve would work? Something like this SUrplus center selector valve For those less than perfect looking welds you always keep the angle grinder handy. That way you can smooth them out quick before anyone comes along and can see them. Thats what I do Sounds like a nice project hope to see some pictures sometime. Nick in Ohio Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,676 #19 Posted January 13, 2008 Thanks Nick! That's good to know info. I kinda thought that the system would behave that way, because the pressure on the "bottom/topped out" cylinder would just bleed over to whichever cylinder is still moving. That was my thinking (hoping) anyway... Not to mention, at least it's not a high pressure system to begin with. I know the lift cylinder on the Bronco moves much faster than the one off of the D180, I assume due to the cylinder volume. I like the selector valve too. Gonna have to look into that... Yeah, the die grinders are gonna get a workout I'm afraid. My welder is a light duty stick welder. It leaves a little to be desired when I'm burning 1/4 plate steel... For the most part, I'm just tacking parts up with it. I'll use Pop's Lincoln and 7018s to really stick it. Thanks again! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
