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kudzu3

Opinions please

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kudzu3

I recently acquired a 1969 charger 10, which the previous owner installed a 12 hp kohler, (I guess it is now a charger 12). The engine is kaput. I took the head off and pushed the piston all the way to the bottom with no resistance. The tractor will not be used for work, only a cruiser for my grand kids, so the big kohler is certainly not needed, so I'm thinking maybe I'd be better off getting a good 181 to replace the 12 horse, rather than trying to rebuild the present engine, also, I can't do the job so would have to pay to get it done. I know there's a lot of ifs, ands and buts here, but my question is what do you folks think would be the least expensive way to go? Also, is the present engine worth anything as it is? Thanks

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slammer302

if you already have a k181 to put on it i would go for it. Only if it was going to be for cruising around if you want a worker i would grab a cheap rebuild kit of ebay and slap it in the 12hp and be on your way i've done this before and it has worked out just fine but i do have most of the proper tools for rebuilding kohler engines if you decide to sell the 12hp kohler it is worth around 50$ in my opinion i would hold onto it for spare parts  

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Shynon

I would build the kohler, If you can do the work you can build it for less than $200 using aftermarket rebuild kits on the bay. If no holes in block  it is still worth something, I would not scrap it out. Have seen a lot of Predator engines install and I think you can buy one from Harbor Freight for $99 when they are on sale.

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DennisThornton

I've bought whole tractors with good running motors for $150 or less and often see whole tractors with no smoke motors for less than it would cost to overhaul a motor, but I would still tear into what you have before going any further.  As others have said, an ebay kit and some time...

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wallfish

IMO you should go with a K181 or a cheaper preditor engine. You don't need the power of a 12 hp and an 8 will still push and pull anything plus it's much easier on gas.
Just match up where the crank shaft is now so the belt guard will fit

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kudzu3

I took the big kohler apart today and the rod is broken at the crankshaft, with a good bit of galding of the crank, everything else seems to be in very good condition. I will take it tomorrow to the shop, and hopefully, all I will need is a new rod and turn the crankshaft. If this be the case, I will use the 12 horse. Thank you all for your advise, it is well taken.

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DennisThornton

If it's just aluminum on the crank journal, and I'm guessing it is, hydrochloric/muriatic acid will take it off.  Outside job!  But brush some on, then some more until...  Crank might polish out without turning it!

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maxed500

The predator engine is inexpensive, starts easy, is very compact, and has a nice amount of power.  I bought one to put on my 308-8 and with some easy modifying, had things running well.  My biggest complaint  is that it rattled the teeth out of my head, wow.  any piece with a small amount of play -like the rod that holds the front of the hood on-will make a lot of noise.  I removed it and put a k series 14 horse on and was amazed at how smooth it was.  

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kudzu3

If it's just aluminum on the crank journal, and I'm guessing it is, hydrochloric/muriatic acid will take it off.  Outside job!  But brush some on, then some more until...  Crank might polish out without turning it!

Thanks a heap Dennis, I'm fairly new at this stuff and your info is very much appreciated. It does appear that it is aluminum coating. I was about to leave to take the engine to my fix-it man, but after reading your post, I'll just go get some acid and try your remedy. :bow-blue:

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DennisThornton

@kudzu3  Just passing on what another friend taught me!  What we are here for!  That bearing/journal looses lubrication, heats, expands and eventually grabs so tightly that it won't turn any more.  Bad thing because something breaks but unless the crank was scored before, it's usually ok.  Good luck with it!  Fingers crossed!

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kudzu3

It worked! The muriatic acid removed it all with a just a few minutes brushing it on. I was able to polish the bearing up pretty good following a "how to" on you tube. The previous owner said that the engine smoked some prior to it breaking, so I plan to replace the rings, rod and all gaskets and put it all back together. I think it will work. Thanks all!

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MikesRJ

@kudzu3

Are you going to measure that crank journal and cylinder bore before ordering parts? Kohler engines will allow up to 0.003" of wear to the bore, and you can get over-sizes rings in +0.003, +0.010, +0.020, and +0.030", also the crank journal cannot be more that 0.001" too small without having it turned. Crank journal can be turned down up to 0.010" under and a 10-under connecting rod can be had rather easily. Since it's already open, you might as well do it right.

Edited by MikesRJ
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kudzu3

Yes, I will certainly measure. If the crank journal  has to be turned, can I get a rod with the bearing small enough to fit the crank? Thanks for the great advise.

Edited by kudzu3
advise no longer needed

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Shynon

Crank can be turned .010 under, connecting rods come in standard and .010 under size.

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MikesRJ
:text-yeahthat:

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