Jump to content
elliot ness

fully hydraulic blade for a C195

Recommended Posts

elliot ness

 Making a fully hydraulic snow/dirt blade for my C-195, got the ram mounted on the blade and the frame work, just need to plum it into the second port of the controls. would post pics, but I guess I'am maxed out on pic space? should get the plumbing finished tomorrow.

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon

I will selfishly advocate that you Become a supporter so I can see pics!!!!!!! 

As a fellow Super C owner:-)

Edited by Aldon
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell
:wwp:      Becoming a supporter will solve the pic space problem.
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
Forest Road

Sounds like a great project. After destroying a few WH blades I bought an old gravely plow blade. Cut it down to a reasonable height and never looked back. Welded tabs to it and used a WH frame, pivot, and springs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
elliot ness

 Finished the blade late last night. It works great,  If you would like pics. email me @     larryandrosekness@gmail.com  going to do the same for my C 160 tractor and other blade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bmsgaffer

I have attached the pictures I was emailed. Looks good! Can you get a video of it operating? We can upload it to a free youtube account and link it here.

S3700001.thumb.JPG.da3651c8ae80275e88841
S3700001_1.thumb.JPG.5dad614656de42b7159
S3700002.thumb.JPG.2ae119fab4bde851a5c12
S3700003.thumb.JPG.127dd3f674354b398d966
S3700003_1.thumb.JPG.d15eb091c55eb9b366b
S3700004.thumb.JPG.00b7437773c5afcfbc22e
S3700004_1.thumb.JPG.a044e79c17ce075fcaa
S3700005.thumb.JPG.0c1019ef798ddb396e043
 

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
elliot ness

This blade moves very fast from side to side, going to try Saturday to make a youtube of it in action.:greetings-clappingyellow:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
boovuc

Great modification!
(sent from Boo's Spine and what's left of his discs). :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
elliot ness

When I take the blade off, I can use the short 2 control lines for a 3-point that I am making. [snap-couplings under the left foot rest] Just move lines to the rear and presto, 3-point.:banana-dance:

When I take the blade off, I can use the short 2 control lines for a 3-point that I am making. [snap-couplings under the left foot rest] Just move lines to the rear and presto, 3-point.:banana-dance:

The more you know, well the more you know. Books are the answer.
 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DennisThornton

Pictures!  Pictures of the 3 point in progress please!  Did I mention to take lots of pictures?

Nice job on the hydro blade!  I'm pretty new to hydros and not sure where you tapped into the system to get power.  Are there plugs waiting to be used?

Just noticed you used 5800 psi hoses!  Doubt you will blow them!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
elliot ness

Pictures!  Pictures of the 3 point in progress please!  Did I mention to take lots of pictures?

Nice job on the hydro blade!  I'm pretty new to hydros and not sure where you tapped into the system to get power.  Are there plugs waiting to be used?

Just noticed you used 5800 psi hoses!  Doubt you will blow them!

Yes on the C-195 there are two extra ports, and any other c-series with hydraulics can be taped into, just find the high pressure side and tap into it with a complete loop.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DennisThornton

I have a C-160 so I'll have to look!
Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WNYPCRepair

Great idea, and great job!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
alswagg

What size ram did you use?  Going to and powe angle to front and belly blade. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
elliot ness

What size ram did you use?  Going to and powe angle to front and belly blade. 

The ram came off of a c125 deck lift that I use for parts.
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Row Cropper

When the trip springs are activated won't that damage the cylinder ram or it's mounting to the blade?  Or, are you going to lock the trip action some way to eliminate that problem?  Nice job with the modification but just noticed this potential problem. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
fireman

I just saw this thread and noticed that too. You need swivels eyes like the 3 point hitched use either welded to the ends of the piston or as the mounts. That a super easy fix. I've said it all along that the ponds should have had live hydraulics on all of the bigger "C" and "D" series tractors like the John Deeres do. Nice job on your modification!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
elliot ness
12 hours ago, Row Cropper said:

When the trip springs are activated won't that damage the cylinder ram or it's mounting to the blade?  Or, are you going to lock the trip action some way to eliminate that problem?  Nice job with the modification but just noticed this potential problem. 

Thanks for the heads up, I never thought about it, I think I shall put a swivel  joint on it. Always good to have more eyes look at a project. Thanks again:text-thankyoublue:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

You  will  need a spherical ball mount at each end of the cylinder as the blade end of the cylinder will have vertical movement unless you can get the blade end swivel on the exact pivot plane as the blade.   I'm guessing you would probably need to move the cyl forward and down below the frame to find this point.  Just remove the springs and trip the blade by hand to find  the best location and to test the new spherical joint.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Row Cropper

I was looking at my plow earlier today and decided the way to eliminate this problem would be to attach the cylinder to the yoke which only moves on one plane.  That could be accomplished by welding a tab somewhere onto the pivoting yoke and it most likely will require moving the current anchor point from where he has the "dead" end.currently located.  That would completely take the trip action of the blade out of the equation and possibly would take some of the stress off of the hydraulic ram.  Just a thought!   

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
PaulC

I like it! I love these type of mods! With the hydraulic cylinder I bet it moves real fast. I just recently added an electric actuator to mine. It's nice but it's pretty slow. The way I mounted mine eliminates your issue but I think your cylinder is to big. Here is a link to my thread in case u want to check it out. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/60463-pimped-my-plow/#comment-558748

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WNYPCRepair

My thought was to use the current rod. Mount one end of the cylinder to the current mount for the handle, or thereabouts, and cut the rod, bend it 90 degrees at the end, say an inch and a half or so, drill it for an R clip, put it through the other end of the cylinder with a washer and the R clip. Remove the blade lock, and the cylinder pushes and pulls the rod, just like the handle. You can move the rod to the top of the frame if you need more ground clearance, there is a matching hole in the top the rod will fit in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

I gotta vote for Pauls design. It does eliminate all the mounting problems of the blade tripping.  

 

Brians idea of mounting on the existing rod also eliminates the blade tripping problem, but the existing blade angle rod and the cylinder rod would have to be rigidly fastened together so they could not bend at the connection.  Even if they were fixed together rigidly as one rod, I suspect the 1/2" rod would eventually bend under the pressure from the blade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WNYPCRepair
8 minutes ago, ekennell said:

I gotta vote for Pauls design. It does eliminate all the mounting problems of the blade tripping.  

 

Brians idea of mounting on the existing rod also eliminates the blade tripping problem, but the existing blade angle rod and the cylinder rod would have to be rigidly fastened together so they could not bend at the connection.  Even if they were fixed together rigidly as one rod, I suspect the 1/2" rod would eventually bend under the pressure from the blade.



You could always replace it with a harder rod, and it will be shorter, so it should be harder to bend, though I did wonder if it was strong enough to handle the increased pressure from the lock being removed. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...