pacer 3,159 #51 Posted September 22, 2015 That HF puller is the one I use - I have successfully pulled about 6 wheels off of D's.Use the 2 clam shells with the flat side under the wheel. Also, I was concerned with boogering up the threads so I got on the lathe and made a 'custom' end piece to go in the end of the screw that would fit snugly into the steering shaft, and also leaving the nut loosely threaded on the shaft. I get it pulled down pretty tightly and give the puller head a sharp rap with a hammer, take another small pull to tighten and another rap, another slight tighten and another rap - usually on about the 3rd 'rap' it'll give a "POP" and there you are. The clam shell puller is THE thing to pull the D wheels - too bad it wouldnt work on all the other models 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #52 Posted September 27, 2015 (edited) I did exactly what @pacer described. Used the impact on the puller tool and 3 hits later it was off. Worked super slick. I pulled the Kohler out of the D160 in hopes I'd get in plunked into the D200 today to test the hydraulics out on it. Turns out the pump has been changed/modified so it doesn't have splines like the D160 tractor. Got on the ole interwebs and found this adapter so I can get the engine connected to the pump:It'll need a few more coupler pieces to make it work but that's not a problem.Parts tractor turned new project tractor:The fuel tank on the fender is due to the seat being adjustable forward/back to accommodate different size drivers I spilled a bit of oil while refilling the rear end today for the hydraulic components. The spindles aren't bent. The bushings are shot in the front axle and so are the tie rod ends. They have tons of slop in them even when tightened down they still wobble. It doesn't help that front is out of alignment the wheels don't point in the same direction. More parts to replace and bring thing tractor up to snuff.I'm trying to track down a snowblower for the D160 tractor (one that started all this) so I can give it to my dad as Christmas present. He needs to find another way to move snow and it'd be a good use for D160 tractor. He has a bigger tractor with a rear mount blower (8ft) on it but it's borderline too big to get into the spaces he needs to with it. He also has an 8n with a blade that works but takes too long. The D160 trans is mostly reassembled. I'm waiting on new axle seals and a few other bits to put that back into the tractor.I'm also on the lookout for another engine for the D200 tractor. Possibly another Kohler or maybe something else. All depends what I can find. Edited September 27, 2015 by 82Caddy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #53 Posted October 4, 2015 I decided to test out how well the hydraulics work on the D160...I rebuilt the carb since it was leaking from the float bowl. All seems well with that. The front axle still has a ton of wobble to it after tightening everything down and tightening the steering box. Going to pull that all apart and see if I can put some oversize bushings in there to remove some of the slop. Probably do the same thing with the front spindles.I ordered some tubes for the front and rear wheels since I picked up 28 gallons of RV antifreeze because it was on sale.I'll start messing with the power steering once a few more parts show up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #54 Posted December 2, 2015 Haven't had much time in the shop to mess with things, but I do have the power steering sorted out on the other tractor and need to get it moved over to the D160 sometime. Need to do some more carb tuning as the exhaust will almost glow red when it gets to working. Here is everything all setup for winter Front and rear tires are all fluid filled, plus another 50# on each rear wheel so both tractors have some weight behind them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_Eddleman 70 #55 Posted December 2, 2015 looks like a great project, I new nothing about wheel horse and got a 73 D18 auto in a trade just to get it running and sell it but now the more I do to it the more I want to keep it. all I need are the two lift valve handles and a part for the back of the PTO. Mine was like yours at first about running I put gas in the carb and it would run I took the fuel pump off and cleaned it and replaced the fuel lines and it fired right up. I have two other brand tractors and am trying to sell one of them to get up the money to fix the horse up a little more. I don't know about the other models of the wheel horse but the D seams like a great tractor to me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #56 Posted December 2, 2015 They're great tractors if (like any other machinery) they are maintained. Parts are a bit harder to find and a bit more expensive but you also have a much larger tractor. Don't get me wrong, it won't do work as easily or fast as a new one of similar size but I can't justify the cost of a new machine. I might have 800$ in this tractor, including buying the blower. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TEAM580 3 #57 Posted December 2, 2015 I have a D180 project tractor that now is a gear drive. Not sure yet what engine it will get. Tom 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike_Eddleman 70 #58 Posted December 3, 2015 I really like the fuel tank location on the parts tractor and the tool box on the back, Being a FULL grown man my belly rubs the steering wheel Move the fuel tank and move the seat back a bit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #59 Posted December 3, 2015 7 hours ago, Mike_Eddleman said: I really like the fuel tank location on the parts tractor and the tool box on the back, Being a FULL grown man my belly rubs the steering wheel Move the fuel tank and move the seat back a bit The parts tractor also has the spring assist seat for a smoother ride and the arm rest seat that was modified to slide way back and way to the front. It's actually quite nice the couple times I have been pulled around the driveway on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #60 Posted December 15, 2015 So, back to the power steering... I did this quite a bit different then most. I haven't seen or read about others doing it this way, not saying I'm the first, just haven't found the others yet. Took a cub cadet super steer front end. I know, mixing brands is a great way to get banned, but is what it is. Designed for power steering, has 1in spindles, has a great turning radius and is cheap. Like I got this one shipped to my door for 35$. It's dirty and needs to be cleaned up but you get the idea. The front pivot point is a 3/4" hole vs the 1" on the wheels horse. Had a few options at this point. Open up the hole in the cub front axle, turn the pivot bolt from the wheel horse down to fit the cub front end or a combination of the two. I bored the cub front out just a hair to ensure it didn't have any wear on it and then put the pivot point piece from the wheel horse in the lathe and turned it down to size. The other beautiful thing about this front end from the cub is that dimensionally, it's almost identical to the wheel horse as far as spindle drop and width. I also decided to go with the trailer hubs and 4 bolt front wheels. Figured might as well add better parts all across the front end if possible. This puts the power steering ram on the left side of the tractor. Interestingly enough, the ram I have is from a JD 430. Turns out, where the brake/clutch pedal is on the left side is almost the exact center of the motion for the ram. So, it looks like I'll be able to mount the power steering ram to the clutch pedal. Just need to figure out how to get it off. I think I'm just going to drill the roll pin out and replace it with a new one. For the actual steering column is a 5 port JD also from a 430 I believe. I didn't grab any pictures of the way I mounted the steering column but its just like I have seen others do. Now to sort out why this 16hp kohler won't run anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #61 Posted December 16, 2015 Well, I must say I joined a Cub forum seeking some help about what wheels/hubs fit this axle. Got some good info, some harassment (not sure if any of it was serious or not but still not getting the warm fuzzies from the group) and my thread got locked for saying the cub parts were going on a different brand tractor. Lasted less then 48 hours on that forum before getting banned. Oh well, just confirms that place wasn't welcoming at all. Makes me enjoy how open and welcoming the Wheel Horse community is. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TEAM580 3 #62 Posted December 16, 2015 8 hours ago, 82Caddy said: Well, I must say I joined a Cub forum seeking some help about what wheels/hubs fit this axle. Got some good info, some harassment (not sure if any of it was serious or not but still not getting the warm fuzzies from the group) and my thread got locked for saying the cub parts were going on a different brand tractor. Lasted less then 48 hours on that forum before getting banned. Oh well, just confirms that place wasn't welcoming at all. Makes me enjoy how open and welcoming the Wheel Horse community is. HaHa... Guess they would love this then, I am doing a Case Cadet. I like the 190 case sheet metal but not the hydraulic drive. I made a new rear frame extending it a little to make it proportionally correct and am using a cub gear rear. Right now it has a vertical shaft vanny in it. I am no purist by any means and my tractors work for a living. There are many that are restored to factory specs and I like that but prefer to be creative myself. I am building a "super" super cub diesel. It will use the yanmar diesel from a green 332 and am adding a turbo. Plan to use some of the other components from the greenie as well. People will talk, people will talk... I say have fun with your project! I have a D180 project tractor that now is a gear drive. (Wheel Horse gear rear) Tom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #63 Posted February 1, 2016 As long as this D200 is a mash up of parts...it continues. I searched and searched for an onan or kohler twin, or 16hp kohler and there just weren't any out there for what I was willing to pay. Everything that had lower hours was 800-1000$ and anything that was within what I wanted to pay needed a rebuild which made it more then I wanted to pay. So we're left with a Predator 22hp v-twin. I bought the extended warranty and I plan to put this engine through the ringer to see how it holds up. The predator was delivered today. I have an dual pulley electric pto (I plan to use the rear PTO and front/mid as well), sleeve adapter for the PTO (1" to 1 1/8"), honda to kohler flywheel adapter, Kohler stub shaft, and jaw coupling hubs to connect to the hydraulic pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spindley 1 #64 Posted May 26, 2017 On 8/10/2015 at 1:12 PM, 82Caddy said: Thanks for the info. Does the fuel pressure need to be under a certain amount? I have a few external pumps I've pulled from cars for transferring fuel from things but I'm not sure of the pressure outputs on them. I have a Bridgeport vertical mill, lathe and CNC plasma table in my home shop so if I need to get creative with things I can but I'd rather not if I don't need to... The motor ran and sounded good for the 15-20 seconds it ran so I'm optimistic it'll be a good engine. I don't have that much into it that I can't get my money back put of it. FYI. The electric fuel pump from Facet is part # FAC-40177. This is a 1-2 psi. Pegasus Racing has them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
82Caddy 851 #65 Posted May 26, 2017 Holy old post bump batman. This tractor is long gone and the k341 is currently setup to go into a short frame tractor. Predator tractor had the electric fuel pump and is something I found on Amazon that is 3psi. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
