522xi and the 50" mid-mount grader blade

[cdsl810 181]

I just bought one of the 50" mid-mount grader blades that was from a 520-H. After looking at the parts diagrams for the 520-H (300-500 series) version and the 5xi version... they are mostly the same. There are 3 differences that I can see: (1) The back frame is longer and may have a different angle plus a lift link attach point on the 5xi, (2) The lift link itself is different, (3) The angle adjust lever is different. Other than that, every other part number is shared between the two versions. ALL of the parts for the 5xi are still available new (even though the complete assembly is N. L. A.). The cost for everything 5xi that is necessary is over $400. But, if I did this, I would have one 50" grader that would work on all of my tractors--just swap the 3 components as necessary. Am I crazy? Would you bother? Am I an addict?????

Seriously, I was simply curious to know if anyone has gone "multi-model" with any of their attachments by just getting the parts that are different for the model that the attachment was not intended.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

I am using a 5xi grader on a C-120 8-Speed. All I did was cut off the rear 3/4" crossbar and drilled a new pair of holes 5" further ahead. Welded 2 shaft collars to the outside of the frame and used the set screws in those to secure a longer 3/4" crossbar. Never did drill out the remains of the original cross bar which was welded in but can do so it will once again fit a 5xi. Would weld shaft collars on there also so easy to change over.

Garry

[Forest Road 594]

I have one for my 314h. Love it wouldn't give it up for nothing. But it's also my LEAST USED implement. It does an unbelievable job cleaning up a 1/4 mile drive meat once every 1-3 years. I've leveled off septic fields, back yards, several driveways, etc.... But once I'm done it usually collects dust for quite some time. Also I prefer it on a manual tractor with dial a height control. It lets you set a depth of cut and forget it. The Hydros don't have such a feature. Makes a huge difference in the final grade. So NO I wouldn't modify it to fit the Xi. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cdsl810 181]

Garry--

So the only critical difference is the location of the rear attach point? The lift link and everything else worked out for you?


Forest Road--

I have a beat-up old 310-8 in the herd. That little thing is surprising at what it can do. Someday, I will get to restoring it. Sounds like the grader blade should hitch right up to that little pony. I hadn't thought about the manual depth of cut feature... thanks. And with the 8 gears, I think it will have enough push. I was just worried about the lighter weight of the 310-8 losing traction while pushing. It does have AG tires and wheel weights on it (and my eighth of a ton on the seat). The 522xi weighs in at more than double the 310-8, with more than double the horsepower. I had made an assumption that it would be the stronger grader. But--what you say makes sense from a practical standpoint. And I know the 310-8 can hold its own. I once pulled the neighbor's motor home about 30 feet with it (flat path, 2" hitch with a tow strap). I thought for sure it would lift up in the front, or stall out. It grunted pretty hard, but inched it forward just fine. I was worried more about the clutch than the gears. The neighbors were shocked, as was I.

Edited August 4, 2015 by cdsl810
Additional thoughts

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

I have differant attachments for the tractor they were intended for. My 520 and 416 can share a snowblower  and a plowblade. My xi has its own blade and snowblower that was made just for the 5xi tractor, coincidentally,  the xi attachments have not been used by me. I am just glad to have them. 

Glenn

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

Garry--

So the only critical difference is the location of the rear attach point? The lift link and everything else worked out for you?
 

I don't think I got a lift link with it so made my own which I usually do anyway. When there is an offset in the link I make one with the pins facing opposite directions which reduces the amount of offset required in the link.
Sometimes there is no offset in the link. The offset in the pins is enough to keep everything in line.

I position the holes in the pins perpendicular to the link before welding them in so installing the hairpins can be done without looking for the holes. I know where they are.

A link made this way keeps wear in the attachment holes at a minimum because the push or pull is always in line with the attachment and lift lever. No more egged out holes.

The link and repositioning the rear bar was all I did.

Garry

Edited August 4, 2015 by gwest_ca