Lawn Ranger 2.0

[Jparkes43 329]

if you hold it in from the bottom and trace your patch, you can use magnets to hold it flush while you are tacking it in.  move your magnets, tack some more, grind some, tack some more.

Hello. Thats a really good idea there! i hadn't thought about that so thanks. Cant wait to get back on with the work. 

James

[953 nut 51,541]

 You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time.

Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. 

 http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

[Jparkes43 329]

 You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time.

Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. 

 

http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

Thats a good 2 cents there! i didn't think about that but it makes sense now you think about it, i will certainly look at some clamps or something similar (magnets etc) but those ones you showed me look great

Thanks one again everyone this is why this place is great. 

james

[DennisThornton 4,769]

 You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time.

Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. 

 

http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

Folks should pay attention to what you just wrote!  It will do just exactly what you predict!  Those butt weld clamps are the cat's meow too!  BUT, butt welding like that does take above beginners skill!  

Another way would be to cheat and get a good repair on one side by just soldering a JUST large enough patch and then fill on the show surface.  Much less or no warping at all.  Won't look good underneath but the weld job may not either!  Lot'
s of care and thought needs to be given to not trapping any residual acid flux 'cause we all know what that will lead to!  Could even solder fill all the underneath to be sure not to trap any flux so there would be a continuous solder seam inside and outside.  Heck, could even solder a perfect fit metal disc right into the hole and flush.  My concerns are that someone with good welding skills will successfully weld in a patch and then scream because of excessive warping!  Less heat/less warping!

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

 You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time.

 

Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. 

 

 

http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

Folks should pay attention to what you just wrote!  It will do just exactly what you predict!  Those butt weld clamps are the cat's meow too!  BUT, butt welding like that does take above beginners skill!  

Another way would be to cheat and get a good repair on one side by just soldering a JUST large enough patch and then fill on the show surface.  Much less or no warping at all.  Won't look good underneath but the weld job may not either!  Lot'
s of care and thought needs to be given to not trapping any residual acid flux 'cause we all know what that will lead to!  Could even solder fill all the underneath to be sure not to trap any flux so there would be a continuous solder seam inside and outside.  Heck, could even solder a perfect fit metal disc right into the hole and flush.  My concerns are that someone with good welding skills will successfully weld in a patch and then scream because of excessive warping!  Less heat/less warping!

soldering? hard solder(brazing) or soft solder(wire soldering)? how would one go and do that? i know i can "weld"(grinder and paint makes me the welder i aint) a patch in, but solder? i am in no way shape or form a bodywork guy but i like to learn

[953 nut 51,541]

Dennis brought up a good point that I had overlooked. Whenever you are using heat on sheet metal it is a good idea to use a ":Heat Dam" to prevent or at least reduce warping. The least heat transfer to adjacent metal will result from stitch welding.Eastwood to the rescue here too, though it is a little pricey ($ 26.99) if you are only doing a small job. A bunch of wet paper towels encircling the work area will do a pretty good job.


 http://www.eastwood.com/ew-anti-heat-compound-1-qt.html

[DennisThornton 4,769]

 You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time.

 

Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. 

 

 

http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

Folks should pay attention to what you just wrote!  It will do just exactly what you predict!  Those butt weld clamps are the cat's meow too!  BUT, butt welding like that does take above beginners skill!  

Another way would be to cheat and get a good repair on one side by just soldering a JUST large enough patch and then fill on the show surface.  Much less or no warping at all.  Won't look good underneath but the weld job may not either!  Lot'
s of care and thought needs to be given to not trapping any residual acid flux 'cause we all know what that will lead to!  Could even solder fill all the underneath to be sure not to trap any flux so there would be a continuous solder seam inside and outside.  Heck, could even solder a perfect fit metal disc right into the hole and flush.  My concerns are that someone with good welding skills will successfully weld in a patch and then scream because of excessive warping!  Less heat/less warping!

soldering? hard solder(brazing) or soft solder(wire soldering)? how would one go and do that? i know i can "weld"(grinder and paint makes me the welder i aint) a patch in, but solder? i am in no way shape or form a bodywork guy but i like to learn

If you can weld you surely can solder!  Just less heat!  I and many others, though there is some confusion, consider soldering low temp with heats that don't approach needing even sunglasses!  Someone else is more than welcome to jump in but to me, silver soldering is usually NOT soldering but rather brazing!  High temp with shaded lens!  Brazing is much stronger than soldering but soldering often provides all the strength needed with WAY less warping than hard soldering/brazing and FAR less warping than welding!  Pure and simple, less heat/less warping!  Less warping/less work to remove it!  I've welded in some patches that just wrecked what I was working on!  Actually did more damage, caused me even more work and left me scratching my head as to what to do now!  Distorted and warped messes!  Then I learned some tricks and other techniques, soldering where appropriate being one of them!

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

 You will have the most satisfactory finished work by but welding the patch flush with the hood. The undermount and fill with bondo method will not do well when the sun hits it. The different materials will expand and contract a different rates and it will show up every time.

 

Eastwood has some neat clamps for holding pieces to be butt welded. A set of 4 will cost $13 plus shipping, these really work. 

 

 

http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

Folks should pay attention to what you just wrote!  It will do just exactly what you predict!  Those butt weld clamps are the cat's meow too!  BUT, butt welding like that does take above beginners skill!  

Another way would be to cheat and get a good repair on one side by just soldering a JUST large enough patch and then fill on the show surface.  Much less or no warping at all.  Won't look good underneath but the weld job may not either!  Lot'
s of care and thought needs to be given to not trapping any residual acid flux 'cause we all know what that will lead to!  Could even solder fill all the underneath to be sure not to trap any flux so there would be a continuous solder seam inside and outside.  Heck, could even solder a perfect fit metal disc right into the hole and flush.  My concerns are that someone with good welding skills will successfully weld in a patch and then scream because of excessive warping!  Less heat/less warping!

soldering? hard solder(brazing) or soft solder(wire soldering)? how would one go and do that? i know i can "weld"(grinder and paint makes me the welder i aint) a patch in, but solder? i am in no way shape or form a bodywork guy but i like to learn

If you can weld you surely can solder!  Just less heat!  I and many others, though there is some confusion, consider soldering low temp with heats that don't approach needing even sunglasses!  Someone else is more than welcome to jump in but to me, silver soldering is usually NOT soldering but rather brazing!  High temp with shaded lens!  Brazing is much stronger than soldering but soldering often provides all the strength needed with WAY less warping than hard soldering/brazing and FAR less warping than welding!  Pure and simple, less heat/less warping!  Less warping/less work to remove it!  I've welded in some patches that just wrecked what I was working on!  Actually did more damage, caused me even more work and left me scratching my head as to what to do now!  Distorted and warped messes!  Then I learned some tricks and other techniques, soldering where appropriate being one of them!

what kind of heat would one be using in this situation? a big 'n heavy soldering iron or a gas flame? and what flux? i'm used to use Griffon S39(i've got stainles and other hard to solder materials, and "normall" copper S39)

Edited October 1, 2015 by C-101plowerpower

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Dennis brought up a good point that I had overlooked. Whenever you are using heat on sheet metal it is a good idea to use a ":Heat Dam" to prevent or at least reduce warping. The least heat transfer to adjacent metal will result from stitch welding.Eastwood to the rescue here too, though it is a little pricey ($ 26.99) if you are only doing a small job. A bunch of wet paper towels encircling the work area will do a pretty good job.


 http://www.eastwood.com/ew-anti-heat-compound-1-qt.html

In the 70's and 80's we used wet asbestos fiber paste to absorb that heat!  Smear it on, weld and pull it off and put it back in the can. Or course some was heated and stuck so we just ground it off throwing fibers all through the air!  We didn't know better!  If I start to cough nadd  misplle asss I typpe perhaps yyoull understttannd!

Actually most anything including wet rags where they will stay put will work.  Just that the asbestos never burned, stuck pretty good even to vertical sides and we could use it over and over, well, I guess until we....cough...

[953 nut 51,541]

Dennis, the asbestos you worked with coupled with the lead you used to fill seams is beginning to explain a few things about you. 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I've soft soldered up a few thousand small holes with just a Weller trigger gun!  Nothing wrong with soft solder if you are not expecting it to be a structural joint!  And really, if done right, it's pretty darned strong then!  A big soldering iron or a cheap propane torch can do wonders with clean metal, flux and solder!  Not everything needs to be welded or brazed!

[Jparkes43 329]

Hello all. 

Some very interesting information there! thanks all i rather enjoyed reading everything and i took everything on board! this is why i love this place. i will have to think about what im going to do now. 

james

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Dennis, the asbestos you worked with coupled with the lead you used to fill seams is beginning to explain a few things about you. 

Indeed!  And with some alcohol as a catalyst!

[callum12 256]

some one in my engineering class has to weld some sheet metal (probably about the same has WH thickness), to stop it from warping he just put a slab of metal i guess copper would be the best but anything'll do and then welded but in 1.5-2 second intervals. he had no warping because he allowed it to cool for a few seconds between welding. if you use a steel slab as a heat sink you can use some of those super strong neodymium magnets to hold everything down. 

callum
 

[953 nut 51,541]

Magnets don't deal well with heat so be careful. The method you described of doing short sections and allowing them to cool is called stitch welding and is a very good technique. Backing up a weld with copper works well for filling holes, it won't fuse to the steel. If you were to use wet rags as Dennis suggested be sure to use wool or cotton, polyester will melt and flash burn. Need to keep this in mind regarding your welding apparel also.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

some one in my engineering class has to weld some sheet metal (probably about the same has WH thickness), to stop it from warping he just put a slab of metal i guess copper would be the best but anything'll do and then welded but in 1.5-2 second intervals. he had no warping because he allowed it to cool for a few seconds between welding. if you use a steel slab as a heat sink you can use some of those super strong neodymium magnets to hold everything down. 

callum
 

"Stitching" is the term and really helps with either torch brazing or welding or mig/tig.  A little higher heat than would be necessary for a continuous weld but you hit and get off.  You can even quench it after each weld. Copper is often used to backup a weld but I think more because the weld won't stick to the copper and the copper helps support the molten metal and prevent burn through.

This warping problem is particularly bad with large flat panels.  You could seriously mess up a hood trying to weld up an 1/8" hole in the center of it and yet have no trouble at all soldering it!

[callum12 256]

make a few practise pieces, see what works, what doesn't. 

callum

[Jparkes43 329]

Hello all. 

Some updates for you to see today. Have been rather busy recently so thats why the lack of updates have been but managed to get small bits and pieces done, in a couple of weeks time i am off school so hopefully i will be able to get more done.

I drained my old gearbox oil our and filled it with fresh Castrol oil of the right grade, it now changes gear so much nicer and runs quieter and smoother. Well worth taking out that old oil it was awful and looked like it did need a change a long time ago! 

Then i also got my belt guard and belt guide fitted a couple of days ago, i have had troubles were the new belt position wasn't fitting with the guard, i wanted a guard for sure and needed that belt guide as it helps it change gear and slackens off nicely so i had to take off a small bit of metal for it to fit but it doesn't look bad and it foes a good job.

That is all for now  











Apart from the painting etc and little bit of welding still to do that is pretty much fully assembled. 

James   

Edited October 18, 2015 by Jparkes43

[bean 85]

I was thinking about you saying that you had to remove the hood to add fuel. actually, as you know,  that is a pretty simple process, just three knurled bolts and pull the pin in the steering wheel.   it looks like the clone has the same 1gal gas tank that the Honda uses. I can go for hours on a gal of gas. I usually just pull the wagon around for yard debris and then to haul firewood in the winter. I really only use a few tankfuls  a year.
btw, did you remove the air filter housing because of clearance, or did you do some performance mods?
if you get time, post a youtube video of the ranger. I'd like to see it in action

[Jparkes43 329]

Hello bean, yes you are very correct on that just the steering wheel and three bolts to remove the 'hood' and yes they use the same tank and it lasts for hours! so its not to much of an issue. welding is yet to come and i'm excited to get back at it as i quite enjoy it. 

I took off to OEM air inlet system because it didn't clear the bonnet and i didn't want to cut away to much. So that style filter i bought because it cleared the bonnet and it also looks nice in my opinion. not really for the performance factor. it has an adapter that goes onto the carb and the the filter is simply clamped onto the adapter

I will do now it is all together! and now that gearbox is more healthy i can more confidently drive it. i just need to get the time to do it, hopefully my dad will be willing to film or i can use my tripod setup one day when the weather is nice.

Thanks for the nice words  and i cant wait to get some more work done to it. 

James 

Edited October 18, 2015 by Jparkes43

[Jparkes43 329]

Hello everyone. Its the start of the holidays and i had made a list of all the things that need doing/buying. 

So today i started with the electrics. 
 

There was a on/off switch on the engine but was quite hard to reach when sitting down and also i never liked it a huge amount. So i had a toggle switch on the dash that needed wiring. So i went off and bought new wires and connecters. wired it all up and it works perfectly i am very happy with it. Might get a few bits done by this evening. i disassembled the old switch and glued the unit together so it plugged the hole in the shroud nicely as it wasn't any different so its just a dummy piece now. 

sorry about the bad quality pictures





Video later on when i have edited it etc. and i will tidy up the wiring later on 

James

[Jparkes43 329]

ok so as promised i got a video for you guys unfortunately my camera on the tripod when i was driving it around the battery died shortly after me starting it making it useless and i didn't realise until later on   so i got a little bit of footage but my camera is now on charge.







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKCnJywaT6o

James

Edited October 26, 2015 by Jparkes43

[bean 85]

I like the black wheels.  looks like your close to painting the tractor.
 

[callum12 256]

i love the look of black wheels on a horse! 
looking great,

callum 

[Jparkes43 329]

Thank you both! Yes the black sure does look nice! Close, not too much to do in-between. lets hope the weather clears up soon because were i am its rain everyday. I will buy my paint soon and get prepping when the time is right. 

James

Edited October 28, 2015 by Jparkes43