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separate rear hitch lift

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I have a 310-8 with clevis hitch on rear would like to have separate mechanism to operate hitch. There are times that I need to use hitch without adjusting height of mower deck or snow blade . Cable system allows hitch to rise when pushing load backwards. Any ideas would be helpful.   Thanks in advance. PS I can not spell hope there are no errors.

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:text-welcomeconfetti:     TO  :rs:     There are quite a few posts on here on this topic.  Try a search of electric lifts.
    I'm thinking a small RC winch..HB has on  sale now for 54$
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What are you looking to run on your hitch where you need to go backwards?

The only thing I could think of is adding a hydraulically operated 3 point hitch, but it would be pretty much custom. Or find a tractor that had one.

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What are you looking to run on your hitch where you need to go backwards?

The only thing I could think of is adding a hydraulically operated 3 point hitch, but it would be pretty much custom. Or find a tractor that had one.

I hope I am doing this right. I have a Brinley Snow(dirt, what ever blade) that I use to push in reverse whatever needs it when the mower deck is attached. Using a cable the dang blade rides up under a load. I hope this makes sense. I have so many leaves in the fall that a vacuum wagon can not handle all of them. Vacuum wagon is attached to the B-82.  So I cut them up with mower on 310-8 ,use a 5 hp blower to pile the leaves up and the use the Brinley Blade to push piles out of yard.

:text-welcomeconfetti:

    

TO  :rs:

     There are quite a few posts on here on this topic.  Try a search of electric lifts.

 

    I'm thinking a small RC winch..HB has on  sale now for 54$

I put a HF winch on my 312-8 and have the grader blade on the regular lift.

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I was looking at you winch attachment, did you add a spacer that raised up the rear fenders etc. It looks like you have a lot more room that I do on the 310-8.

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What are you looking to run on your hitch where you need to go backwards?

The only thing I could think of is adding a hydraulically operated 3 point hitch, but it would be pretty much custom. Or find a tractor that had one.

I hope I am doing this right. I have a Brinley Snow(dirt, what ever blade) that I use to push in reverse whatever needs it when the mower deck is attached. Using a cable the dang blade rides up under a load. I hope this makes sense. I have so many leaves in the fall that a vacuum wagon can not handle all of them. Vacuum wagon is attached to the B-82.  So I cut them up with mower on 310-8 ,use a 5 hp blower to pile the leaves up and the use the Brinley Blade to push piles out of yard.


If you are talking about posting, yep you are doing it right!

You will need something with rear down pressure, which only three points have stock. You may want to look into trading up to a GT-14, C-195, or D series. All have optional rear three points and are slightly bigger tractors.

Your other option would be to rig in an electric actuator or hydraulic cylinder on the rear sleeve hitch. I think @shallowwatersailor has an electric version on his XI, but you may need to look into custom fitting that into a classic style.

See this thread: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/57853-clevis-hitch-question/

I cant find his original thread at the moment, but its out there.

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Thanks for the info , that is kinda what I have thinking but I was thinking about hooking up a electric actuator directly to the arm on the clevis hitch and placing the actuator under the fender on top of transmission where the tube for lift cable is located . I looked at Northern Tool and the actuator's start at about $130.00 (on sale) for a 3 plus inch movement , that does not include the switch which is around $30.00 . Therefore I am at $160.00 before I even start. Head of House (not me ) would have a S_ _ _ fit. Both of us are retired with limited funds. I may have to figure out a manual fit. I have an idea, will take a picture and post . I loved the JB but I think that is way out of price range. I will print pictures so my idiot brother can weld up my final drawings . 

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Here is my original post on installing the JB Universal Sleeve Hitch. Be careful of actuators as some of the lower priced ones do not have the lift capacity needed.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/51761-new-sleeve-hitch-on-523dxi/#comment-476535

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What are you looking to run on your hitch where you need to go backwards?

The only thing I could think of is adding a hydraulically operated 3 point hitch, but it would be pretty much custom. Or find a tractor that had one.

I hope I am doing this right. I have a Brinley Snow(dirt, what ever blade) that I use to push in reverse whatever needs it when the mower deck is attached. Using a cable the dang blade rides up under a load. I hope this makes sense. I have so many leaves in the fall that a vacuum wagon can not handle all of them. Vacuum wagon is attached to the B-82.  So I cut them up with mower on 310-8 ,use a 5 hp blower to pile the leaves up and the use the Brinley Blade to pus

I was looking at you winch attachment, did you add a spacer that raised up the rear fenders etc. It looks like you have a lot more room that I do on the 310-8.

I raise the fender, bracket and gas tank 1 3/4" and added the receiver hitch. Needed more room for the 25-950-12  tires.

Edited by Don1977

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thanks for the info , that creates a lot more space.

I will be away from the hectic world of the Internet for the next 5 days. Sorry I could not get pictures of my plan, but the" Honey You got to do this before we leave " took way to long. Going to take my drawing pad and draw up my plans in the mountain air and go junking at Flea Markets and yard sales. Never know what you will find. One time I had to transport a wood stove I got cheap 275 miles in the back of Volvo Wagon. Head of household was not happy.

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I did know so much time had passed  since my last post. After looking at the Johnnie Bucket product , cost was way out of Ballpark. Decided to try to locate electric actuator under the seat pan. Found a 700 lb actuator at Mypushcart.com for $119.00 no shipping charges and also ordered Toggle reversing switch part number 27332 from Northern for $12.99 plus shipping. Look in scrap metal pile in and outside of my shed found 2 large pieces angle iron which my brother welded together and made brackets to hold motor end of actuator ( holes on actuator are 5/16 " ) he also welded an additional upright on clevis hitch. I remove seat , seat pan , gas tank and side pieces of metal under gas tank. I know the 310-8 needs a lot of cleaning , rust removal and painting. I did a quick attachment with C clamps yesterday to see if it would work. I know from the pictures that the actuator is not straight and tilted. I had planned to work on it today but that did not work out. Since the backyard is my work shop the ragweed is driving me nuts and project may take longer than I want. Please see pictures.

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is the fuel tank on the motor,most are under the seat,my 308 wasn't but that's the only one ive seen,i guess the 310 is also attached to the motor?

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No the fuel tank on a 310-8 is mounted under the seat pan . I have to make adjustments left or right on the actuator placement due to the fuel tank. That is my next step, get the actuator in place using C Clamps and test fit the fuel tank. More pictures to follow. I noticed that a couple pictures were in the group from an early experiment using a a mechanical means as a lift. That idea sure did not work especially after it slipped off the workbench and fell on my left foot and leg.

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Looks good, I like your idea. Don't forget to replace the shifter boot as you clean up the rest of the tractor.
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I like it!  I like it!  I like it!  But I have some concerns. Maybe unfounded but I would love some opinions!  I know WH and others (including two of my tractors but the actuator was missing on both!) offered electric actuators but not all actuators are the same!

Simply lifting a load, such as a dump trailer or just raising a 200-250lb weighted scraper blade up and down is different than trying to keep a scraper blade at a certain height while it BANGS into an immovable object!  That's a tremendous back force against the threads in the actuator that could far exceed it's rated capacity.  I have 40 acres of rocks with a some sand and soil on top and in between with trees growing among them.  No where can I stick a shovel without hitting a rock!  I suppose if someone were leveling new gravel or even plowing a new garden in real soil without rocks those "shocks!" wouldn't be an issue.  Around here they are a regular event!

This actuator appears to be a great buy!  http://mypushcart.mybigcommerce.com/copy-of-heavy-duty-linear-actuator-12-volt-dc-8-stroke-super-duty-770lb-max-load-with-7-mm-sec-black/
 

This heavy duty linear actuator is a powerful solution for lifting large loads.  With a max static load of 770 lbs and 385 lb max dynamic load, this 8" 12 volt DC linear actuator can take on most applications. Our all new super duty design is dependable and reliable even in the harshest of outdoor conditions.
Specifications:

  • 12 volt DC [electrical]
  • 770 lb max [static load]
  • 385 lb max [dynamic load]
  • [Speed]: 7mm/sec @ 50% Load - 8mm/sec @ no load
  • Current: 1 [Amp Draw] @ no load
  • Current: 2.5 [Amp Draw] @ 50% load
  • Max Current: 4.5 [Max Amp Draw]
  • [Duty Cycle]: 10%  
  • IP67 Weather Rated
The Johnny Products use two versions, one rated less but one rated much higher:
1

IMG_1179_small.JPG

Thomson Linear Actuator
4
 in stroke 600lb force
Sleeve lift 
replacement, all models all years.100% replacement for older Bear and Warner models. K2G10-12V-DN-04R90-JP2
12v 1/2" pin holes. The pin center to pin center retracted measurement is 10-3/8". Used on our sleeve hitches.  Not recommended for the JBJr.

Note: Sorry, we cannot accept any returns on actuators. Whether it's a replacement for one of our products or this is for a home built machine of your design, choose wisely.

$260

 
ADD TO CART

2

IMG_1179_small.JPG

Thomson Linear Actuator
4
 in stroke 1200lb force.
Johnny Bucket Jr lift replacement, all models all years. 
100% replacement for older Bear and Warner models. K2G20-12V-DN-04R90-JP2
12v 1/2" pin holes. The pin center to pin center retracted measurement is 10-3/8". Used on JBJr lift

Note: Sorry, we cannot accept any returns on actuators. Whether it's a replacement for one of our products or this is for a home built machine of your design, choose wisely.

$260

 
ADD TO CAR


I may grab the same actuator for another project and I may even duplicate this project.  I don't doubt that this project will work but I do wonder if it will survive my rocks!

Anybody have an experiences or thoughts!

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To Wheel- n- it Where can I get a shifter boot? There is a lot of cleaning to do , scraping and painting. Rusteoum  Red takes for ever to dry. Could be the humid climate down here.  

To Dennis : I originally found the actuator on Amazon which had a couple of testimonials from some people who had purchased the actuator. I think one said he has used two of them on the blade of a small home made bulldozer.  True or false who knows. I looked at a lot of actuators before I purchased anything and settled on this one because I figured I could waste $119.00 but not two to five hundred on something that may not work from the get go. I wonder if I could get Bud down to Richmond for a few days. He could solve all the problems and maybe find something for the hood of Ole Shep.

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Yeah, good price on the actuator.  Made me remember that a friend is holding one for me!  Guess I better go get it before I buy another!  Yours from China?  Got any branding on it?

Hopefully it will work fine for you but when I hit a rock and it tries to force the whole tractor into the air I'm hoping there's a lot of thread bearing surface dealing with that pounding!

Don't be trying to tie up Bud's time!  I need him here first!  B)

Please let me know of your progress and anything that I might help with!

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That's asking a lot of that seat bracket. The tractors with the gas tank under the seat have problems with hood stand breaking at the front mount for the fender pan.

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Unfortunately it was made in China. Hard to find anything made here any more. I purchased the 6 inch model based on the experiments with the mechanical model before it jumped off the work bench and damn near broke my foot. I worked on the tractor about 3 1/2 hours yesterday trying to get things set up correctly and taking measurements. Before I put the pan and seat back on the tractor I plan on attaching a Brinly plow  and see how it lifts and holds. I don't plan on plowing or anything like that because my Subdivision's name is Granite Acres. Two guesses as what is 3 to 4 inches under the top soil. Hard pan ( that's what we call it ) and granite. Not rocks but boulders. In fact there are two granite quarries ( both closed in the 50's)within 500 yards of my house.

as for Bud since he is retired the Forum members ( Supporters Only) could pass him around to each other homes to work on WH 's and give us ideas on things we could tinker with. He could travel see parts of the US and Canada maybe even Europe and do a great service.Mrs. Bud could teach the wives sewing , upholstery and painting for our projects. ( I will not say a word to my wife, let her be surprised ) Do you have heat in your barn in case I need a new home after the surprised look on my wife's face.

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That's asking a lot of that seat bracket. The tractors with the gas tank under the seat have problems with hood stand breaking at the front mount for the fender pan.

I have been thinking about the stress on the seat bracket but have not arrived at a solution yet. I may end up at my brothers again to have him do some welding on a brace .  I know about the hood standing breaking , found one of my mounts  broken when I removed the gas tank. O well the 310 was build in 87, something has to break every once and a while.

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Ummm.  Guess I don't have the only stones and rocks!
Good idea for Bud's spare time!  We could help schedule him!
Amazon has the same unit but no reviews yet:
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Linear-Actuator-Stroke/dp/B012YAY9NM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1442785577&sr=8-12&keywords=linear+actuator

That may be too much for the seat bracket but that seat bracket looks like it could handle a lot more than my rear end!

Stay in touch!

 

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Well this past Saturday was a bust. I am going to have to made a new bracket ( ok  my brother has to do more welding if I can catch up with him). No matter how I tried to move the bracket within the seat stand the actuator was coming in at an angle in order to clear the gas tank. I spent yesterday and this morning try to figure out a solution with the existing bracket but nothing worked. I hope this pictures that I took on Saturday shows the problem for those who are interested. I am going to take the stand , gas tank and actuator to my brother' s this weekend ( I hope) and take another whack at it. I am afraid if I leave the actuator at an angle something will break and I will end up with a big mess.

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I like your setup but visually dislike the angle but I don't think that is going to be a problem.  I'm just concerned about impacts with your rocks and the angle ain't gonna fix or hurt that!  Now having said that, WH, Craftsman and others have used electric actuators in applications like this and I gather without too many issues.  I just can't help but to feel that those impacts exceed the "static" ratings of the actuators!

If there was a REALLY heavy spring to absorb that shock I would think "Fine!".  I've seen such springs on heavy equipment for just that purpose!  I'd just be happier if the threads didn't have to take the whole shock and in my case repeated POUNDING!  Maybe I'm paranoid!

Hopefully others will chime in!

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