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Hey Bud, I'm totally impressed at the quality work you are doing.

 

 

Wish you would move to NC so we could do some of this  stuff together

You may need to make a trip to GA to help me with the  pontions! 

Wouldn't that make it a Seahorse?                                                                 :ROTF:                                             :text-lol:

Very good , very good !!!  Best post today :greetings-clappingyellow:

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KIMG0075.thumb.jpg.ee0f3bf847bc6094824efI found my hood bracket and did a little mock up. Like everything on this project I will need to do a little repair to mount it properly.

 

 

 After removing a bunch of stuff that wasn't mine. Now the kids have that worry. Lol I found my work bench too.

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1 hour ago, Hank01 said:

 I found my work bench too.

 

:bow-blue:      I need to do that too, best of my recollection I have a nice work bench and a concrete floor; just haven't seen them lately!  :unsure:

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 I'm done with Santa duties and got to spend quality time with grandchildren. 

Now it's back to :wh: fun.

I got the hood mounting bracket and edge pieces welded on. I had to do a lot of hammering and shaping to get the hood to fit properly. I welded in a transmission support plate to beef up the existing pitted plate.

Now the rough stuff is done I can continue with the frame prep and sheet metalwork.

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21 minutes ago, buckrancher said:

you should be proud of the fantastic job you are doing to save this old horse Hank

I did a lot of the same with mine it's a lot of work

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/9468-brians-854-complete-rebuild/

brian

Thanks for the kind words buckrancher. It was your rebuild that convinced me to buy this little neglected horse. I took note and used some of your ideas for the repairs needed. I don't have your machinist skills so some things will have to be as is.

If it were not for this forum and all the great people who share information I probably would not have attempted this build.

I am looking forward to warm weather to start painting but I have plenty to do till then. 

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Got the blasting cabinet back in operation after reorganizing my shop a couple weeks ago. New bolt, front and rear straps for the battery box and a new rod for the idler assembly. Reblasted the frame and tower stand and started applying JB weld to the worst rust pits.

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Edited by Hank01
Double pictures
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KIMG0104.thumb.jpg.b92fe86812e372cd381671452457641955-1977072462.thumb.jpg.e83e3After sanding the JB weld I went back over everything and did a little body filler. I spent a few hours today reshaping dents and dings.on the hood. I went ahead and primed everything to keep it from rusting. Still have more work on the hood but here is where it's at now. Too wet and cold to paint so it looks like I'll prep and prime as I go and tear down and paint when the weather allows. I still have a few small parts to remake like the brake rod and this rod for the steering.

KIMG0106.thumb.jpg.727d0dc28f54bc825ecb7

 

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I cut the shaft at the welds and with a little grinding, a big hammer and punch I was able to remove the parts from the shaft.

KIMG0115.thumb.jpg.29a83da8e8a8c735f02a2

I found a piece of rod in my metal barrel. A little wire brushing, drilling, and welding and I have a new steering shaft.

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Made a new brake shaft while I was in the parts making mode.

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The original shaft was not salvageable.

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Nice job Hank!

 

I assume you used torch to make bends on the brake shaft?

 

I need to buy an acetylene torch as I need to do similar for my build for the foot hydro control.

 

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Thanks Aldon. I used a plumbing torch with Mapp gas. It's a little slower but it suits my needs.

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11 hours ago, Aldon said:

Nice job Hank!

 

I assume you used torch to make bends on the brake shaft?

 

I need to buy an acetylene torch as I need to do similar for my build for the foot hydro control.

 

 

I was going to reply, then Hank said what I was going to say, but 2 more cents anyway, MAPP might save you buying an Oxy/Acet of all you want to do is heat and bend or maybe light brazing.  

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I had another day of shop time so I blasted the hood again and pecked at the dents some more and started applying Bondo to the rust pits and the dent repairs. The areas that I have sanded are looking pretty good so far. I have only used Bondo one other time in my life and that was 30 years ago and the.outcome was not good. Lol. I learned to apply a little, sand then apply more if needed. This is going to be a very time.consuming process for me. Here is where I'm at after about 3 hours of Bondo and sanding. Any advice.will be greatly appreciated. All the pits are filled in on the underside as well.

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3 hours ago, Hank01 said:

I had another day of shop time so I blasted the hood again and pecked at the dents some more and started applying Bondo to the rust pits and the dent repairs. The areas that I have sanded are looking pretty good so far. I have only used Bondo one other time in my life and that was 30 years ago and the.outcome was not good. Lol. I learned to apply a little, sand then apply more if needed. This is going to be a very time.consuming process for me. Here is where I'm at after about 3 hours of Bondo and sanding. Any advice.will be greatly appreciated. All the pits are filled in on the underside as well.

KIMG0121.thumb.jpg.d979844dfe8642a0101fc

 

After good prep work there's only two things you can do wrong with applying and sanding the filler (Bondo), leaving it too low and leaving it too high.  Yeah, I know, not all that helpful, but if you overfill you sand down and if you under fill you add more and expect to do both, more than once.  Best to overfill a bit and carefully sand down by crisscrossing the contours.  There's NOTHING flat on that Round hood, some areas might be straight but nothing is flat so your sanding strokes should be very varied with all the crowns.  I was very fond of a hi-build sprayable polyester filler (Feather-Fill) for overcoating the finished filler but there's also some finish coat fillers that are applied like the regular filler but go on smoother and sand easier with the finer than 80 grit papers.  Finding all the flaws now is a lot easier than waiting for the glossy red to find them!  Holler if I was unclear or if you have more questions.

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23 hours ago, Hank01 said:

Thanks Aldon. I used a plumbing torch with Mapp gas. It's a little slower but it suits my needs.

 

Hank,

 

So are you using MAPP or MAPP PRO ?

 

I started doing some initial research into acquiring stuff I will need for finishing my project and making/bending up a rod for my foot pedal control is one of those mini projects. Is mapp Pro hot enough to soften rod fro bending?

 

Evidently MAPP Pro burns at lesser temp than MAPP. 

 

From what I have read anyway.....

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Aldon, I use Mapp I get it at TSC.

This is what I use.

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I have oxy/acy torch but only rent tanks for large projects.

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Hank, when you get to the point that you think the body work is ready for paint buy two different colors of primer; apply two coats of color #1 allowing the required dry time between coats. After they have dried apply a good coat of color #2 and let it dry. Use a long rubber sanding block with 400 wet sanding paper using long strokes and the cross hatch sanding method Dennis mentioned, sand the straight portions of the hood. Use lots of water and light consistent pressure as you sand the entire hood (stay away from the ridges and edges ). When you begin to break through to color #1 move on to another area. Any area that has not gone through to color #1 is low, areas where color #2 shows no signs of sanding marks is way too low. Now get a florescent work light or position the hood under a florescent shop light, wet the hood and look at the reflection of the light, it should look straight without any wavy areas. We all like friendly tractors but we don't want our hoods to wave at us as we walk by!  :ychain: For curved areas you will want to use a flexible block and will also be able to use the reflection to see how it looks.

 

Keep on posting, we love to see your progress. 

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Dennis, thanks for the info. Where can I find the feather fill. Will spot putty do the same thing?

 

Thanks for the info 953. I knew about applying a color and sanding then using the light and water but never heard of using two different colors. Great tips. Now to see if I can execute the process.

I knew this hood needed a lot of work but it may be more time consuming than I thought.(so what's new ?) Lol

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Feather fill is a two part catalyzed product that hardens through a chemical reaction, spot putty is basically thick lacquer primer that dries (don't use it), if it is too thick only the top will dry. Any good auto body supply house will cray feather fill or an equivalent product. Be sure you have good automotive lacquer thinner (not the cheap stuff they sell at HD and Lowe's) on hand to clean your paint gun and do it right away.

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31 minutes ago, Hank01 said:

Dennis, thanks for the info. Where can I find the feather fill. Will spot putty do the same thing?

 

Thanks for the info 953. I knew about applying a color and sanding then using the light and water but never heard of using two different colors. Great tips. Now to see if I can execute the process.

I knew this hood needed a lot of work but it may be more time consuming than I thought.(so what's new ?) Lol

Its a labor of love, your working on possible future calendar material there Hank.

 

Glenn

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