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"D"- Man

How To Make An 18 Automatic Into A 23 Automatique LSE

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"D"- Man
On 6/22/2017 at 0:24 PM, Oldman said:

Chromed. Nice! Yes, finding a local for the chroming process would be ideal. I really agree this will be a build of all builds!

Thanks Dave, Yes chrome is nice; however, "finding a local for the chroming process..."  well let's just say the place I contacted in Toledo, Ohio told me they only chrome steel, and furthermore they farm out all of the chrome plating of Aluminum, pot metal and other materials to the same chrome shop that I was using.  So I guess it's back to square 1.

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"Manic-Mechanic"

Ya, I don't get it? There used to be zillions of shops! Ever since the "great out-sourcing", to China, etc.

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"D"- Man

Needed a measurement for the extended fender supports, so I consequently did a mock-up of some of the parts to sort of determine about how long the extended fender supports would need to be. Took some pics but the lighting was not the best so they didn't turn out too well, but here they are.

 

6538

 

6539

 

6540

 

6541

 

6542

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19richie66

Wow......:thumbs::thumbs:  two thumbs up on that. I can't wait to see this together. Awesome job!

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elcamino/wheelhorse

I know your project is going to be great , a Chevy steering wheel. You have great tastes. Can't wait for the finished product.

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"D"- Man

Thanks gentlemen, I can hardly wait myself.  I wanted to get a picture with the double wide footrest, the double wide fender and 3 tail lights, but I couldn't find the center lens with the clear round insert for the reverse light.

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"Manic-Mechanic"

"Be afraid to get it dirty"! Coming along wonderfully, that polished steel is really popping .......How did you create the switch for the reverse light?

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"D"- Man
11 hours ago, Oldman said:

How did you create the switch for the reverse light?

To be honest, I haven't sorted that out yet, may consider a momentary on switch in line with the motion control lever in the full back position. 

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"Manic-Mechanic"

H'm, yes, I can see it in that region, anywhere around that lever of even a rod to the pump? Just like the one on the clutch pedal? That will be fun to do, have to take pictures of that mod too. I like the toolbox. I liked the steering wheel until someone had pointed out it was a Chevy! Ha ha ha! Well, it's a Horse now!

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"Manic-Mechanic"

I was hoping to see the grill? I am trying to find out if the grill pieces should be squared lengths of angle, mine seem to have a twist?

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"D"- Man

Just picked up the parts from the chrome shop, turned out very good.  2 turning brake disc, the block-off plate and the cups for under the control valves.  May try to upload some pics later.

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19richie66

:popcorn:

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"D"- Man

Here are some pics of the parts I had chromed. Block-off plate, cups under control valves and discs.
It is nigh unto impossible to get good pics of chrome parts with my cell phone cam.

6552

6553

6554

6555

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C-101plowerpower

ooooooooh shiny

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Zeek

Now THAT is some attention to detail! Bravo (nice pics too) :handgestures-salute:

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"D"- Man

Thanks gentlemen for the kind compliments.  The resto is sort of taking a back burner as I am trying to do a bit of an upgrade to our home theater room.  Will try and get back to it once this is sorted.

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a.dumont

Where did you find a new front axle to frame pin? I've got a ton of slop in mine and not sure where to get a replacement.

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"D"- Man
On 10/7/2017 at 8:47 AM, a.dumont said:

Where did you find a new front axle to frame pin? I've got a ton of slop in mine and not sure where to get a replacement.

I didn't find a new one I just used the best one that I had, and cleaned it up the best I could.

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Sarge

That pin isn't too hard for a machine shop to make from scratch using good quality steel alloys . Plus , the axle itself is plenty thick enough for a brass or bronze liner bushing - that makes it more serviceable in the future .

 

Sarge

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"D"- Man

 I finally have the second pair of hubs removed from the axles. I took them over to my neighbors' who has a 12-ton press; however, it would not even budge them. So I then proceeded to take them to a repair shop that had a 200-ton press. Needless to say, they were out the next day, oh and no heat, just a bit of penetrating oil and a lot of squeaking, + $40.00 (he wanted $50.00). I didn't take any pics, maybe after I get the paint on. Not much of an update but I just wanted to add this.

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"Manic-Mechanic"

I remember pushing bearings on the huge press in our maintenance shop, and that squeak would make me want to hide behind the beam! The brakes should be extremely smooth.......

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Sarge

I still have several pieces of sealed wheel bearings that exploded in a press lodged in my face and one ear - I hated pushing those things off and later just learned to cut through them to relieve the stress instead .

 

Have you load tested that engine/pump coupling yet ?

 

Sarge

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"Manic-Mechanic"

I spoke out of turn, sorry.

Edited by Oldman

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"D"- Man
1 minute ago, Sarge said:

I still have several pieces of sealed wheel bearings that exploded in a press lodged in my face and one ear - I hated pushing those things off and later just learned to cut through them to relieve the stress instead .

 

Have you load tested that engine/pump coupling yet ?

 

Sarge

3

Sarge, I have not load tested the engine/pump coupling yet, I have both the cast coupler and the rubber coupler N.O.S.  I know the original was only designed for so much through-put; but, I feel whatever extra weight that all of my modifications will have added is going to be insignificant compared to say a set-up with a back-hoe and front-end loader's weight.  One other consideration is that this certainly is not being built to become a worker or driven hard.

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Sarge

Yeah - I was just curious as it looked like a good overall design . It's too bad they didn't spend more time engineering the coupling on the D's - it's certainly their biggest weak point . Hoping to finish pulling the pump off today to replace the two stub shaft seals for the swash plate and those needle bearings to stop a leak . Also need to figure out why it seems to want to creep into reverse no matter where the linkage is adjusted - I suspect the two problems are related . I much prefer to beat on a C series in comparison to the D - the weight/strength ratio is a lot better due to the D's added weight/size . It's too bad since the D's larger size and weight lends itself to do heavier work - but I feel like you could never truly rely on one .

 

Sarge

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