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chorusguy

removing head and removing carbon k341s

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chorusguy

Sorry for the typo in the previous post. I am looking for someone to walk me through removing the head from a k341 engine,removing the carbon, and replacing the head gasket and head. Many thanks in advance.

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Fordiesel69

1. Remove head

 

2. Place piston at bottom and tape all the way around it to keep carbon from getting down in there.

 

3. Scrap and clean the deck, valves, and ridge at top of cylinder.

 

4. Put a nice film of grease at bottom of cylinder, remove tape, and move piston to top.

 

5.  Scrape carbon from top of piston and wipe everything clean.

 

6.  Move piston down very slow, and just a little at a time and wipe the carbon from the cylinder, keep repeating until at bottom.

 

7.  Put back together and enjoy.

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rmaynard

Be careful scraping. The head will scratch easily being aluminum. Use a new head gasket, and don't forget to torque the bolts to the correct specs, and in the proper order.

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chorusguy

. Remove head

2. Place piston at bottom and tape all the way around it to keep carbon from getting down in there.

3. Scrap and clean the deck, valves, and ridge at top of cylinder.

4. Put a nice film of grease at bottom of cylinder, remove tape, and move piston to top.

5. Scrape carbon from top of piston and wipe everything clean.

6. Move piston down very slow, and just a little at a time and wipe the carbon from the cylinder, keep repeating until at bottom.

7. Put back together and enjoy.

Thanks for the replies. Can I get a clarification on a couple of things?

In step 2, you say put cylinder at bottom. This means the lowest point of travel, correct? And what am I taping? Am I covering the cylinder opening or am I taping the top of the cylinder and the cylinder walls?

In step 4 where am I putting the grease? On the cylinder walls? I don't understand what this step does.

Thanks again

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rmaynard

Personally, I don't do it that way. I run the piston to top dead center (compression) and clean the top of the piston and valves first. While it is up, I also clean the surface where the head gasket sits. After vacuuming the carbon scraped off, I move the piston down about 1/2" and clean any carbon that has formed on the rim of the cylinder. I vacuum the carbon from the piston top and move it back to the top. Blow out anything left with compressed air, put a couple of drops of oil around the circumference of the piston. Move it to the bottom, wipe the cylinder clean and repeat that process again to be sure you are removing any remaining dirt and carbon from the cylinder. 

 

As for the head, I knock off any large hunks of carbon with a plastic or wooden scraper. Then because I have access to a sand blaster, I tape the gasket surface and blast the combustion area. If sand blasting is not an option, you can use brass brushes to remove carbon. Check for flatness as described in the service manual (available for free downloading in the manuals section), and correct if not true. Then reassemble as I stated above.

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pacer

A bit confusing with 2 methods, but FWIW I also use maynards method, seems less trouble. Oh and bythway dont expect any change in running or performance (unless youve got a problem in there) Your poor running is gonna be something else.

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chorusguy

Thanks. It is running pretty rough and the spark plug was really black and sooty looking so I wanna take a look. I did clean the carb last night and will reinstall this evening. Hoping that helps. I replaced the points as well. Time will tell. Removing the head is the last step

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rmaynard

Sooty spark plug is an indication that you are running rich. A good, thorough carburetor cleaning and readjustment should help.

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chorusguy

OK. Cleaned the carb and adjusted it 1.5 on the short needle and 2 on the long needle. Installed it and started it up. Surging and backfiring. Adjusted the low idle and got it to idle fairly well but when I gave it more throttle it started backfiring and surging again. Manipulated the long needle between rich and lean and it never found a sweet spot just varying degrees of poor running. I have taken the exhaust off and it appears that small particles are coming out when it running its worst. Also sounds like the valves are tapping. When it is cycling down just before it backfires it starts producing some smoke. It might be bluish and smoke also appears to be coming out where the points are mounted. Any suggestions?

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chorusguy

I also replaced the points and the condenser and changed the gap from 20 to 18 and it got worse. Changed the gap to 22 and it got worse.

Thanks

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rmaynard

Reset gap to .020. Did you remove the main jet needle valve and clean the inside of the tube and all the holes? You must be able to pass air through the length of tube and all holes.

 

post-2221-0-38729000-1430523060.gif

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chorusguy

Yes did that. Two holes by the threads two holes midway one hole at the point. As it is mid behaving it cycles through better running and poor smoking running. Reset the gap.

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boovuc

Two other things now that you have done what you described above. (And these are the first things you should have done so your cool).

 

1) Make sure the governor is hooked up properly. Get someone to give you a detailed picture of the governor spring attachment points and make sure they are duplicated on your motor.

2) Timing. You changed the points but did you make sure the timing is correct? (Search "static timing" on here for info if not).

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tunahead72

Yes did that. Two holes by the threads two holes midway one hole at the point. As it is mid behaving it cycles through better running and poor smoking running. Reset the gap.

 

Have you checked the throttle shaft that goes into the top of the carb?  Any kind of back-and-forth play there could cause the symptoms you're describing.

 

Two other things now that you have done what you described above. (And these are the first things you should have done so your cool).

 

1) Make sure the governor is hooked up properly. Get someone to give you a detailed picture of the governor spring attachment points and make sure they are duplicated on your motor.

2) Timing. You changed the points but did you make sure the timing is correct? (Search "static timing" on here for info if not).

 

Good advice here, but I'm a little confused about #2 -- Changing the point gap is the same as adjusting timing, correct?

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chorusguy

Ran it again yesterday with regular fuel. Had been running mechanic in a bottle non ethanol fuel to help clean the carb and it ran better. Still some backfiring and intermittent smoking cycles but better. When I took the carb off to clean it I noticed the bottom of the tube that the main jet firs in. The one that the float encircles looked sort of mangled up. Anyway. I just ordered a new carb off if eBay. It doesn't have the correct choke lever but figure I can swap it out with the one I have. We will see. I hope this fixes the issue. I want to give it a workout.

Thanks for all of everyone's help thus far.

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