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Hendricksn

520-HC not charging

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Hendricksn

I have an '88 520-HC I just got and the battery isn't charging. I've replaced the RR with one out of another tractor that I know works. There's over 30 VAC coming out on the 2 AC posts. But only 9 volts coming out of the B+ post. I tried jiggling the fuses and no luck. Any help would be awesome thanks

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Hendricksn

After a Jump start while running 12.6 at the battery and 9.8 at the RR

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gwest_ca

The voltage at the regulator DC terminal and at the battery should be the same. If it is not there is resistance in the wiring between the two. Clean all the connections and make sure they are tight.

 

Garry

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Hendricksn

I got 12.4 at the battery and 12.4 at the wire going in. But only 10.4 when I put the voltage meter on top of the B+ terminal

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gwest_ca

You are losing 2 volts to resistance in the wiring somewhere.

 

Have you looked at the wiring diagram to see where that wire goes?

 

Garry

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Hendricksn

I have 12.4 at the wire at the RR. it's only when I put on top of the connector I get 10.4. The red wire coming in is good

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gwest_ca

Sorry I don't understand. You have 12.4 volts in the wire going to the regulator DC terminal but 10.4 volts in the terminal on the end of the wire? If that is the case then the terminal on the wire is not making a good connection. Cut it off, remove more insulation and see if the wire is shiny and bright. If not you need to replace the wire so a new terminal will make a good connection. I always solder the terminal to the wire so corrosion in the future is eliminated.

 

Garry

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Hendricksn

03d8f825a5d58b531191ca0551fc36f7.jpga701e27429a7f4eb6e1599539c18394f.jpg a picture is worth 1000 words

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Hendricksn

That's after being on a charge for a few hours. Not running

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gwest_ca

The regulator terminals were not originally black so take the regulator off and clean the terminals till they shine. Do the same where the regulator mounts to the blower housing because that is how the unit gets its necessary  ground.

 

To keep future corrosion at bay apply dielectric silicone grease to the terminals and connectors after they are cleaned up and shiny.

 

From your pictures you don't know if the wire connector to regulator terminal is a good or poor connection or if the meter probe to regulator terminal is giving you an honest reading. The poor condition of the regulator terminal will affect both.

 

Garry

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squonk

That positive battery post connection looks nasty. I wouldgo through and clean / repair all of the connections

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Hendricksn

Under the terminal it's nice and shiny. And at the bolt I have a nice light when I touch it with the test light. And I wire brushed the battery terminals and applied battery terminal protectant

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squonk

That battery cable where it's crimped to the terminal end is very corroded. That dirty battery top isn't a good thing either

Edited by squonk

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Hendricksn

You think that's the problem solver? I've had them really crusty and they still work

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Save Old Iron

I got 12.4 at the battery and 12.4 at the wire going in. But only 10.4 when I put the voltage meter on top of the B+ terminal

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Engine OFF.

 

Remove the + battery cable from the battery. This is really important so as not to blow up your multimeter.

 

Set your voltmeter to 200 ohms range.

 

One multimeter probe on the (now disconnected) + terminal battery cable and the other multimeter probe on the reg B+ terminal.

 

Depending on how the charge circuit is wired, you should see near 0 ohms resistance between these two terminals when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. You may also see near 0 ohms in the OFF position if your wiring is so configured.

 

If you see an over range indication or very high (and possibly jumpy) ohms reading, you have no connection or a very poor wiring connection between these two electrical terminals. You will need to troubleshoot further to re-establish a good electrical connection.

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Save Old Iron

03d8f825a5d58b531191ca0551fc36f7.jpga701e27429a7f4eb6e1599539c18394f.jpg a picture is worth 1000 words

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The 10.43 DC volts on the RR shows how the HF meter responds to a PULSATING DC waveform out of the RR unit. When the battery is connected to the RR output, the PULSATING DC becomes a SMOOTH DC voltage.

 

Your AC into the reg is confirmed good. Your RR has been confirmed good. This is a wiring / corrosion issue that needs a closer look.

Edited by Save Old Iron

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Save Old Iron

or

 

those inexpensive multimeters are not shielded from electrical interferences - such as those produced by the ignition system. Just for fun, measure the B+ terminal again with the meter sitting near the battery, away from the ignition coil.

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Hendricksn

21 ohms with the key in the run position

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Hendricksn

Also battery connected. There's 11.97 at the battery 11.79 at the b+ terminal when it's disconnected. And when I hook it up 8.8 volts on the clean section of the connector

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Save Old Iron

21 ohms with the key in the run position

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This is evidence a high resistance connection is present in the charge circuit,

 

Bad crimps, corroded terminals, burned fuse holders are the likely suspects.

 

Create a temporary direct jumper wire between the RR B+ terminal and the battery + terminal to prove this theory.

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Hendricksn

And then the battery should charge?

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Save Old Iron

yes,

 

given you have a battery in good condition and your ground wiring is in good shape.

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Hendricksn

Which fuse should I redo? The one for the tach? Or the one that kills the tractor when you pull it out?

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Save Old Iron

If the 30 amp fuse holder located near the starter were to become corroded, you would experience a loss in charging current to the battery. Make certain the replacement holder, fuse and wiring can support a 30 amp charge current.

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Hendricksn

The one down by the lights? In the front of the tractor. Not the 2 next to the battery?

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