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plumber

1998 520lxi Service

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plumber

Hi all, I have a new to me 520lxi. I'm going through the tractor before I start to work her. The engine has a few leaks so I'm replacing some gaskets.

I also think that this would be a good time to change all the fluids. For the life of me, I can't find the drain for the transaxle! Can anyone please point me in the right direction? As well, I read in the manual that the transaxle holds 7 qts of fluid, but refill is only 4.5 qts?

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stevebo

This should help lots

to_5xi.pdf

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plumber

Thank you much for the download, that will definitely come in handy.

After reading through the section for the hydrostatic drive, it simply states to change the fluid to remove the drain plug and refill with 4.5 qts.

Where is the plug? Is there a way to get more than 4.5 qts out of there? I'm refilling with synthetic so I'd like to replace as much as possible.

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stevebo

I need to do mine as well. Not sure as I have not gotten that far. Someone should be able to help. I want to say that one of the bolts in the tranny comes out to drain it. 

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plumber

I've already taken a few bolts out I thought were drains. I figured it might be a good time to stop and ask questions before I mess something up.

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Rick_in_CT

I'm going from memory here, but look on the very bottom of the transaxle housing for an allen socket plug.

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Rick_in_CT

Regarding the change quantity of fluid, some of the fluid that will not drain is up in the power steering system.  I don't know if cracking open one of the lines at a high point in the steering system would cause it to flow back into the trans.  I have always measured what came out and put that amount back in, then check the fluid level.  Don't forget to change the trans filter when changing the fluid.

 

Rick

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plumber

I have a Toro filter on hand, and I also plan on removing the filter to the power steering and giving that a good cleaning.

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shallowwatersailor

There is an Allen Head 1/4" NPT plug that is left of center almost flush with the bottom of the case. The refill is only 4.5 quarts so I always buy the Mobil 1 10W-30 5-quart jug. On the 5xi, the refill is a lot easier as the case is vented unlike the Eaton 11 on the 400/500-series tractors. Regarding getting more out than the 4.5 quarts, you would need to dump and refill twice which would give you about 90% fresh oil. DO NOT run it while emptying it.

 

Try to fill the new Toro hydraulic filter at least half way before installing it. I put just over 4 quarts in, run it for about two minutes to get any air out and let it sit for an hour. Go back and check the level, then fill to the mark.

 

On my 523Dxi, Toro recommends that the rear end be higher than the front when changing the coolant. I would assume the 520Lxi would be the same to have the radiator opening (cap) higher.

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stevebo

Plumber. what is the filter number you have? 

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grinchsr

Hey Steve    I just changed mine and used a Wix filter #51410 which I ordered from Amazon for $12.41 with free shipping

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plumber

I have a Toro 79-5270 for the transaxle and a Kawasaki 49065 for the engine oil.

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stevebo

Fram PH2844 is coming up as a cross to the Toro for less money. Can anyone comment on the use of this filter? It is a full flow filter without the anti back flow in it. I assume that is correct for a hydo right? 

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plumber

From what I've read, the Toro filter has a lower micron rating. I got mine from partstree.com for about $14

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stevebo

I just ordered the WIx filter for $13 off Amazon. I understand Wix is a high quality filter. 

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shallowwatersailor

There are two Wix filters listed for that application. The 57102 has a 10 Micron rating with 7-9 gpm and the 51410 has a 21 Micron rating with 7-9 gpm. Napa sells the FIL 1410 which is made by Wix and is the Wix 51410. There is a Napa FIL 7102 for an unbelievable $28.99. Using Napa to cross reference for the Toro 79-5270, they also come up with a FIL 1521 that has a 21 Micron rating and 7-9 gpm. I believe that the Toro Hydraulics Manual calls for a filter with a 10 micron rating.

 

The nice thing about the Wix/Napa filter is that it has flutes on the end which is easier to change than the smooth Toro filter. Ideally it would be nice to cross reference the spec for a filter with the same rating and screw-on size but a longer jacket. I have done this with my truck's engine to gain an extra quart capacity, and the 523Dxi for an extra pint of oil. I like the idea of additional filter and oil capacity.

 

As an aside, I was changing the tranaxle oil in my DC-105 and found a mfr. for a 1/4" NPT plug with a Torx head that has a magnet on it. Where possible, I have installed drainplugs with magnets on my vehicles and the 523Dxi's engine. I also have magnets on the filter jackets., My thoughts are that the magnet catches metallic pieces that would be caught by the filter but allows the filter to remain "cleaner" for more flow.

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plumber

Well, I found the drain for the transaxle, the plug is taking a Kroll soak right now. On to bigger issues. I had a coolant leak, and when I pulled the water pump I heard that lovely sound of something dropping inside the motor!

Turns out the water pump gear was in about 6 pieces.

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Edited by plumber

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stevebo

Plumber-

Sorry to see you have this happen. It always seems to be something. 

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plumber

Well, I got it all back together and running!

One issue I'm having is weak attachment lift. I've still got the 2 stage blower mounted and I got a couple up and down cycles out of it. Now I can't get it to lift over a half inch or so? Does anyone have any ideas?

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Rick_in_CT

Good to hear that you got it all back together. 

 

I have never had this happen with the hydraulic lift, but we should be able to figure it out.

 

Did you previously service the hydraulic system?  I see above you were going to do it, as well as clean the power steering filter.

 

Is forward and reverse working properly?

 

Is the power steering working properly?

 

Did the lift work correctly before the water pump gear problem?

 

If you did perform the service on the hydraulic system, possibly there is some air locked in the system.  Give it a good run driving around and make lots of turns.  See if the lift action returns.  If it doesn't, let us know.

 

Rick

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plumber

After reading the manual, I think I found the problem. The pin for the lift was in the bottom hole, the manual calls for the pin to be in the middle hole. I don't get as much hight, but it lifts up and down flawlessly now. Perhaps the bottom hole is asking for too much?

After figuring out the blower issue, I swapped the blower out for the tiller and broke ground for my new garden. This machine is a real pleasure to run.

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