Jump to content
GT14

Engine Upgrade C-175 Auto

Recommended Posts

Starting my own swap on a 76 c160 just like you the price was too good to pass up. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds good jiwion82 keep us posted on your progress!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got all of the essential parts ordered to start mocking it up. I decided to switch all the pulleys on the engine to 1" bore. The electric pto should be here next week some time. Now to find time to dig her out and get started. I think I'm going to make a custom hood, but that not as important as getting her up and running again. 

 

Edited by jiwion82
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry not pics but I just finished putting a Predator twin on a C-175 hydro....did alot of measuring and pic taking then took the ole Series I Kohler off the shaker plate and noticed it had 2 adapters under the engine to raise it up....so I set the new twin on them and measured....it is only 1/2" low ...not low enough for me to worry about cause the belt guard lines up just right.....had to move the engine to the left and drill new holes in the shaker plate....engine shaft is 1"....WH drive pully is 1 1/8"....so a call to McMaster-Carr and ordered a split adapter (7 bucks) and an "off set key stock (1/4" X 5/16") and I can use the original WH engine pully....elec clutch from an ole WH has 1.0" bore so no problem there......cut the inlet port off of the HF muffler leaving about 3" stub...found out that a SS handicap rail fits right over the 3" stub with a tight fit (will weld later) and the 90 degree elbow  allows for making twin upright stacks or mount parallel and run both pipes forward into the stock WH muffler....The WH throttle cable is perfect...no need to cut or move.

 

The only interference is the WH hood has a slight inward angle on the bottom edge...straighten that edge and the hood fits tight but just right.

So for 549 bucks and a 50 dollar C-175 I have a mean machine that sounds great with twin SS stacks....now to see how long the China engine lasts before it punches a hole in the block like the ole Series I Kohler?....(I do know that it will do the famous WH WHEELIEEEEE!!!!)

 

Send me a pm if you want to know more about the swap....(now to find a couple Harley shortie mufflers and make neighbors go "AHHHHHHHH!

 

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:banana-gotpics:We need pics!! Sounds like you did a great job. I have about 17hrs on mine with no issue.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/23/2016 at 8:25 AM, GT14 said:

:banana-gotpics:We need pics!! Sounds like you did a great job. I have about 17hrs on mine with no issue.

 :text-yeahthat: :auto-layrubber:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, GT14 said:

Finally installed the PTO

 

IMG_1782.JPG

IMG_1783.JPG

IMG_1784.JPG

What make/model PTO did you go with? It looks like a single pulley. True?

 

I am somewhat new to wheel horses but have not yet seen a need for multiple pulleys when there is a dedicated pulley for tranny as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two PTO pulley sheaves are for different implements.small for power larger for more speed (mower decks) smaller for more power (snow blowers)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is only one large pulley 5 3/8"

 

DB Electrical PTO0003 Electric Pto Clutch

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been using the Electric PTO for mowing, (about 15 hrs) really like the performance compared to the mechanical clutch.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The PTO is working flawlessly you can barely hear the Predator load down when it engages (48inch deck 3/4 throttle). When disengaged the belt stop quickly, very happy with this setup.

 

 

 

Edited by GT14
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gt14, what made you go with an electric pto vs using the manual linkage? Was it easier to go with and install vs. making new mounting brackets for the original? I'm asking as I am about to pull the trigger and stuff one into my 75 c100.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would also like to know how you wired the electric clutch up as well! I'm also thinking about doing this for my dads tractor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

GT14.....I am hopefully  putting in a HF 22 hp during my upcoming holiday break.  Regrading the clutch, did you fabricate the bracket that mounts to the engine block and secures PTO or is that a part that is available somewhere.  Tx

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/17/2017 at 6:40 PM, Ernie1990 said:

Gt14, what made you go with an electric pto vs using the manual linkage? Was it easier to go with and install vs. making new mounting brackets for the original? I'm asking as I am about to pull the trigger and stuff one into my 75 c100.

Sorry I did not see this earlier, I went with electric because there is not side thrust bearing in the Predator.

On 12/19/2017 at 10:54 AM, USHorse said:

GT14.....I am hopefully  putting in a HF 22 hp during my upcoming holiday break.  Regrading the clutch, did you fabricate the bracket that mounts to the engine block and secures PTO or is that a part that is available somewhere.  Tx

I fabricated the bracket.

On 10/18/2017 at 6:16 PM, Ernie1990 said:

I would also like to know how you wired the electric clutch up as well! I'm also thinking about doing this for my dads tractor.

I ran a wire off the battery to a 15amp inline fuse. Installed a heavy duty push pull switch in the dash. Put a quick connector at the clutch.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/24/2017 at 1:26 PM, Jnmardister said:

My k301 just died so I’m probably gonna do this as well.

You will be very happy with the swap, the Predator is a strong runner.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure is, so much power I usually run half throttle. I have been using it to plow snow and push stone/dirt.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, GT14 said:

Sure is, so much power I usually run half throttle. I have been using it to plow snow and push stone/dirt.

Working a Hydro at half throttle can lead to overheating, may want to add an electric fan or oil cooler to supplement the fan on the drive pulley.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Working a Hydro at half throttle can lead to overheating, may want to add an electric fan or oil cooler to supplement the fan on the drive pulley.

Good point, most of the pushing is winter, but will look into electric fan addition.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I picked up the motor a few days ago. Finished the break in and now I’m getting ready to put it on the tractor. However, I’m not sure about the motor mounts and the shaft bushings. What did you use for bushings. Also how did you get the motor to be exactly where it needs to be?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/5/2018 at 9:11 PM, Jnmardister said:

I picked up the motor a few days ago. Finished the break in and now I’m getting ready to put it on the tractor. However, I’m not sure about the motor mounts and the shaft bushings. What did you use for bushings. Also how did you get the motor to be exactly where it needs to be?

If you going with OEM drive pulley you need to go from 1" to 1 1/8" . I made a bushing just wide enough for the pulley and bought an electric clutch with a 1" bore. Or you could buy another pulley with a 1" bore.

For the engine mount I used 3/8" flat stock and clamped them where I wanted them front to back then used a straight edge to align drive pulley with with hydro. (mine was about 1" offset} Tested hood clearance.

Then marked engine bolt locations, drilled and tapped, welded the flat stock to the frame. Engine runs so smooth vibration is not a problem.  Hope this helps.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×