1988 vintage 312-8 starter problems

[NukeProf 6]

As the title says, I have a 1988 vintage Wheel Horse 312-8 with starting problems. With the battery fully charged, it will turn the engine over briefly one time, and then I just get a click and a buzzing sound when I try the starter.

 

I'm pretty sure it must be the solenoid, and I'm willing to undertake the replacement myself, but would like to know if there are other ideas.

 

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[NukeProf 6]

O.K. let's assume that the problem is a stuck or failed solenoid. Do I have the photo below labeled correctly?

 

 

[oliver2-44 8,836]

Start with the simple things

Before you start replacing parts make sure you battery is good fully charged.

Check your battery with a volt meter, it should be reading around 12.5v (minimum )to 13.5 volts. Also check that your ground cable is tight/making a good ground

Pull the spark plug and see if the starter will spin the engine with no compression, if it does, it may be a top starter bearing.

Then connect a volt meter to the solenoid and verify that the voltage isn't dropping significantly after the first crank, which could indicate a failing battery

Then with the solenoid energized read across it with the voltmeter to see if the internal contact is worn and loosing connection.  Also there is a topic on here about how to disassemble and repair a starter solenoid.

 

I have a 1985 WH 312-8 with the Kohler engine and last fall it would turn over one time and drag, speed up a little then drag again. The top bushing was shot. I couldn't find a starter bushing online and my local auto auto electric shop wanted $35 to install a new bushing. 

I checked with NAPA and they ordered me a bushing from J&N Auto Electric. (J&N only sells wholesale) You can also find foreign made starters on ebay starting around $40.

Good Luck!

[NukeProf 6]

Thanks, Oliver. This is very helpful. The battery voltage checks o.k. I'll work my way down the remainder of your checklist and report back.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,485]

O.K. let's assume that the problem is a stuck or failed solenoid. Do I have the photo below labeled correctly?

The starter motor is what you have labeled as the solenoid.

Follow the heavy cable on the starter to the solenoid. There you will find another large cable that goes to the battery (+) post. There should be one small terminal at the base of the solenoid with a purple wire. When you turn the ignition switch to start power is sent down the purple wire which should active the solenoid. You could try applying power from the battery (+) post to that small solenoid terminal. If it cranks OK that tells you the starter and solenoid is OK. Problem is in the circuit feeding the solenoid. It may be just not supplying enough voltage because of corroded/loose connections or worn ignition switch.

 

Wiring diagram is in the owner manual

 

Garry

[NukeProf 6]

Another helpful post. Thanks, Garry.

[NukeProf 6]

Reporting back, now. Voltages look o.k. With the spark plug removed, the started turns the engine nicely. With the plug installed, I only get a buzz.

 

Applying power directly from the battery to the activation post on the solenoid produces the same response. 

 

So it sounds like a starter problem from Oliver's post above. How do I remove/disassemble the starter? As you can see from my picture the oil filler tube is blocking access to it.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,485]

M12 service manual

 

Starter removal on page 10B.4

Starter instal on page 12B.12

 

Garry

[NukeProf 6]

Thanks, Garry. I'm going to replace the battery before I start taking things apart. I've had that battery a few years (can't remember how many) so it's worth a try.

[Don1977 604]

It still sound to me like a bad battery. Have you tried to jump it from a good battery. Checking with a volt meter don't tell you much, once starting to turn the engine the battery voltage can drop off to where there isn't enough voltage to turn the engine. A battery load tester will tell you if the battery is good, bad, or weak.

[oliver2-44 8,836]

Don's recommendation to try to jump start it from another battery is certainly a good final no cost check.

If it is the starter it's actually not hard to remove. while the two starter bolts are hard to see, a socket with an extension gets you ratchet out to where you can crank it. Removing the battery also makes it a little easier to see. 

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Checking with a volt meter don't tell you much, once starting to turn the engine the battery voltage can drop off to where there isn't enough voltage to turn the engine.

 

True, unloaded battery voltage means very little in relation to battery CAPACITY.

 

Do a "poor man's" load test. Leave the voltmeter connected to the battery while cranking the engine. If the battery voltage drops from 12 volts to under 10 volts, suspect the battery. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts, replace the battery.

[NukeProf 6]

Jumpstarting with another battery is not a viable option as I don't have another battery, and I can't get the tractor anywhere near my other vehicles without starting it  . I may try the "poor man's" load test recommended above, but I've already removed the battery and plan to buy a new one tomorrow

 

I do appreciate all the responses I have gotten. So just to show that I'm not a total deadbeat here, if anyone is having problems with their nuclear reactor, I stand ready to assist!

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I do appreciate all the responses I have gotten. So just to show that I'm not a total deadbeat here, if anyone is having problems with their nuclear reactor, I stand ready to assist!

 

Well you know, I just happen to have one of those in my recently acquired very very rare Wheel Horse 520HCA(Hydro-commercial-atomic)... She wont start, and these men in black SUV's keep stopping by. They aren't very helpful!

 

 

 

Edited March 25, 2015 by bmsgaffer

[NukeProf 6]

Well you know, I just happen to have one of those in my recently acquired very very rare Wheel Horse 520HCA(Hydro-commercial-atomic)... She wont start, and these men in black SUV's keep stopping by. They aren't very helpful!

 

520HCA.jpg

 

 

 

Well, I can see the blue Cherenkov glow, so you're gettin' the gammas o.k. Can't be too much wrong!

[Ed Kennell 35,616]

So Brandon, can we count on seeing this 520HCA in the  Big Shows  Friday night parade in June?    You may want to cruise on over to TMI for a tour.  

Edited March 25, 2015 by ekennell

[mey030 9]

I would load test the battery sounds like low amps to me. The cheap flat post Batterys work for a while but crank amps are not enough. Get st least. A 260 CCA batt. Like ones for the big z turns

[NukeProf 6]

Well it's time to close the trouble ticket on this issue. New battery and new spark plug and the old gal starts and runs like a champ.

 

Stupid me for not trying that first.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

Glad to see you got her going again!

 

Dont be a stranger, we have experts (and lots of opinionated non-experts like myself) here for everything wheel horse related!