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some of you may have seen my other post but i have now ordered all the sprockets, bushes and pulleys i need to complete the drive system (other than the drive belt as i need everything in its final position in order to measure it). i have chosen 08B British standard chain the same size Meadowfield uses on his custom builds. i have got two 21 tooth sprockets to go from the 90 box to the tranny for a 1:1 ratio and a pulley  that is twice the size of the engine output to go on the input of the 90 degree box. this will mean the gearbox is on a 2:1 ratio with the gearbox. all i have to do if it is too slow or too fast is change the pulley on the top of the 90 degree box, this will require no disassembly and the clutch/ belt tensioner should take up the slack if a smaller pulley is used (within reason).

i should be able to find a drive belt that fits but if i can't does anyone know if it possible to get a custom length v-belt? i know there is nut and link v-belt made out of lots of links layered together but the clutch pulley runs on the back of the belt, this would not be possible with nut and link. if not all i have to do is move an idler pulley slightly. 

thanks for looking 
callum  

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Make a belt by cutting down an old one and measuring. Then get the closet size in the right pitch. Are you using spa or spb profile pulleys?

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i measured the original drive belt and A section was the closest so that is what I've ordered for the pulley.
 the original belt was a cogged v-belt, should i stick with cogged? 
some of the bushings and chain arrived today, scarily quick postage! :)
callum 

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Hi all, 
now I've got the bracket mounted i can start looking at the hitch lift again. I've made a rocker shaft that i am still fine tuning before welding, but my main problem is that i don't seem to have much throw (difference between fully up and fully down). could some one tell me by measuring from the back of the hitch how much it moves up and down? or upload a video showing the hitch going from fully up to fully down? this would be really help full. 
thank you very much,
callum

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Hi all, 
finally put together another update video for you, most things are explained in there really. shouldn't be long now until she's drivable again! the hitch lift and bracing the front of the transmission are the main fabrication bits but I'm sure there will be the random bits that pop up, there always is! 
I'm hoping to get her done by the engine of the month but we'll have to see about that! 

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I've hit bit of a problem, I'm struggling to make the clutch work, I've put in the idler pulley and it helps to a great extent but not enough, the belt doesn't go slack enough to aid proper clutching. so if anyone could suggest possible solution that would be much appreciated. here is a short video to further explain:



thanks everyone,

callum

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Try a smaller idler pulley on the clutch or on your 90 degree drive box or a bit longer belt. I had a similar issue with my C165 when I was changing up the pulleys and drive belts so I could go faster.

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You need a bar or finger to trap the belt when the clutch is pressed...

IMG_20141005_181159_zpshrqrdl7q.jpg

its the small piece of metal over the idler pulley that you can see

Edited by meadowfield
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@ meadow field i do have finger bar thingy but i think it need repositioning slightly, what I've  noticed with your setup is that your clutch pulley comes out way beyond the driven and driving pulley, due to space limitations this is not really possible hence the idler. 

@bds1984, i will try the smaller clutch pulley, i can't use a smaller pullet on the 90 degree drive box otherwise i will be going really fast everywhere! I'm also going to try slightly different idler pulley locations as well. 

thanks again, more ideas very welcome,

Callum :) 

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not as yet, I've been doing the wiring recently while i mull over various ideas.
I've got the horn, cig lighter and headlights all wired in and the plough light just needs refitting along with the seat pan to be completely wired in. 

callum

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With all the lights and accessories you've added, will the charging system be able to keep up? I don't want to see you melt down the stator and/voltage regulator.

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Thats a good point ^^^ but if it is able then it will be great, i think if i remember correctly you already had lights on it.

james

Edited by Jparkes43

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I've had that I'm mind, the headlights are only 7W as they are LEDs, the plough light will too be LED, the horn is 5A but thats not continuous. the cig lighter draws what ever i put in it, i'll have to keep in mind that the charging system is only 3A. it will only be used for phone charging and maybe a flashing beacon. 
according to the manual there is a 3A and 6A charging option, mine is the 3A this only uses a diode to rectify the power thus half is lost, all i would have to do is install a full bridge rectifier to upgrade it to 6A charging. electronics really isn't my bag so it might not be possible. 
yes the headlights were installed prior to this project but I've wired them in to the fuse block rather than having an inline fuse. 

Callum :) 

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draw bar hitch arrived yesterday, still no luck with the clutch, I'm going to try a squeeze a idler behind the clutch pulley i think that will really help. 
i was going to bid on a plough yesterday, needless to say i forgot about the auction! luckily it didn't sell and I've contacted the seller and enquired about a buy it now price. 

sorry for the slow progress, i want to make sure everything is done right the first time

callum

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Just an idea, but how about something like this around the engine pulley? The size of the rod and plate used can be adjusted to fit the application. As can the width of belt to "capture" when it's slack.

Personally, I think you're using a clutch pulley too great in diameter, and thus the belt is too long. Plus, drive belts are almost always actuated from the outside in, not inside out as you have it. JMHO


Belt_Idea.thumb.png.f6a6c593db424ddc0066

Edited by MikesRJ
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thanks for the picture, i would like to have the clutch work from the outside of the belt but it would require a fair bit of giggling around, considering the horse is on the floor and i have no means of putting it on a table this is to be greatly avoided! haha

the belt capture looks good, i could use that on the 90 degree gearbox pulley, so when the belt is tight does it contact the belt capture? if so i could have some little bearings on there to avoid wear. this would have the affect of making the pulley smaller which would solve my issues. i will sort some method of mocking up a smaller clutch pulley. 

thank you very much for your help, very much appreciated,
callum 

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thanks for the picture, i would like to have the clutch work from the outside of the belt but it would require a fair bit of giggling around, considering the horse is on the floor and i have no means of putting it on a table this is to be greatly avoided! haha

the belt capture looks good, i could use that on the 90 degree gearbox pulley, so when the belt is tight does it contact the belt capture? if so i could have some little bearings on there to avoid wear. this would have the affect of making the pulley smaller which would solve my issues. i will sort some method of mocking up a smaller clutch pulley. 

thank you very much for your help, very much appreciated,
callum 


i think that if you put some bearings on the belt capture it won't work as good, you'd want as much friction you can get on that piece, just my
:twocents-twocents:

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I would not use the bearings. The whole purpose of the belt capture is to maintain the belt at a small radius when the tensioner pulley is removed.

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ah i see, i thought it helped to pinch the belt in, so the capture helps the belt to slip when the tension is removed? i suppose with out the belt capture the belt could simply fall off while clutching. 
last night i was thinking about the belt, there is very little space between the clutch pulley and the gearbox pulley hence i can't put an idler in here. but if i was to use a bearing and its outer race to run against the back of the belt i could use that as an idler and have the belt capture.
i'll draw something and show you (I'm terrible at explaining these things!)

callum 

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so here is an idea I've got, i'll finally be able to get out to the work shop and do something tomorrow, i'll let you know things go. 

11721985_1683037438596445_915088153_n_zp

callum 

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I'd still look at how it's done on a standard transmission, a small bar or tab trapping the belt to the idler works well. That why I copied it for Bendy.

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I'd love to do what you've got on bendy but on yours you are able to have the clutch pulley come out much further than the outer diameter of driven and driving pulley. to get the correct ratio i have had to use quite a large pulley on the 90 degree gearbox this means that the clutch pulley doesn't come out past the diameter of the gearbox pulley. this is why i need an idler. as standard my clutch pulley as a tab on the clutch pulley so i will still be using that. the main problem now is getting enough slack on the belt when clutching. 
out of interest which pulley does the belt slip on bendy when clutching? 

thanks for you're help,
callum 

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The belt should be pushed off the engine pulley when clutched, otherwise the engine will be trying to spin the belt when clutched, burning up all the guide tabs.

Did you flip the operation of the clutch or is that how it came? (you drew it differently in your previous video, so I dont know if im thinking backwards or not) I think your idler is taking up too much slack and I think your clutch should be working the other direction... :scratchead:

Actuating from the inside out should be fine, as that is how all the WH clutches work.

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the clutch is as standard, working from the inside out. due to the confines of the chassis couldn't get enough movement on it to get it to work with the uni-drive. i'll upload an update later but i think I've sorted it, i've made a nylon roller on the lathe with pinches the belt in a bit to help. I've been mocking up with a long belt and clamping it behind the 90 degree box pulley. I've measured what belt i need and i will order it tonight and the next size either side of the measurement just in case. 

sorry if my diagrams are confusing, the logical way would be to do it from above but for some reason I've been doing them from below. i guess it makes more sense to me when I'm working under the tractor! 

callum

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