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daveoman1966

1977 c-160 Auto. Swap in a 10-pinion LSD

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daveoman1966

I have (and love) a 1977 C-160 Auto with 10.5 wide shoes, 2-link chains, 75lb weights (2), and my 200lb bone bag, but still spin a lot on ice.  Just one wheel spins and I know that is due to the 8-pinion differential. 

I have a complete 10-pinion LSD from a Raider 12 in mint condition and I want to swap that...in its entirety, into the C-160 gearbox.  I know that will go a long way in reducing the ice-spin, but will it make an exact fit replacement of the original 8-pinion differential ? ? ?

Here are pics of the 10- and 8-pinion differentials.... axles are both 1 1/8" dia.

 

direct replies to:

daveoman@windstream.net

 

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Edited by daveoman1966
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sorekiwi

I went the other way on one of my tractors, from a 10 pinion to an 8 pinion.  I need to think a bit about it, but I am thinking that I had to swap an axle too, I am thinking the 10 pinion used different lengths??

 

The problem with the 10 pinion diffs now ( 50 years after they were produced!!) is that the spring clip thingy in the middle wears out, and it is NLA from Toro.  That severely reduces the locking ability of the diff.  The one in my 1267 still locks up, but the other two that I have owned have lost their traction ability.

 

My belief is the best traction is the spider gear diff, but it is also the weakest of the Wheel Horse differentials, and I have blown up all the ones I have had.

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racinfool40

As Mike (sorekiwi) said if you do the swap make sure you get the axles in the right side of the 10 pinion differential as they are different length's...you can see the offset in the 10-pinios differential end caps...and make sure you use the corresponding axle gears as the axle gears a different between the 2 differentials also...Easy swap just make sure you have everything in the right spots before final assembly...hate to see a short axle in the wrong side...3" sticking out one side and 1" on the other...Been there done it...

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daveoman1966

As in my original post, I will swap out the ENTIRE differential, meaning to include both axles, (although not shown in my pics).

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bmsgaffer

Never having seen one up close, is there enough thickness between the axles when assembled (where the friction ring is) to install a stiff spring?

 

What is the thickness of that ring? Could people install a compression spring in there to add some assistance? It would be retained by the axles, maybe a solution for all those weak 10 pinions...

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stevasaurus

I think I remember a thread on this subject, only in reverse...swapping out the 10 pinion for the 8 pinion.  It had to do with how the ring gear meshed with the 11/44 toothed gear.  Seams like I remember having to file or grind off a little of the 11 tooth part for it to fit.  Since you are going the other way around, you may not have to do that.  :eusa-think:   At any rate, you should be able to see if there is a problem before you bolt it up.  :)  The right hand axle is longer then the left.

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Forest Road

Believe it or not..... you need more weight! My "bone bag" comes in @ 270lbs. Add on cast iron wheel weights to boot. With that being said I also run 4-44lb suitcase weights and 5 gal gas. All kept in a box/rack hanging off a Scotty hitch. It's made a world of difference!

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groundhog47

I'm in the mix to do this also  and very curious as find both axle gears as same id ?pn?(3908 or 8053 or 7197); also have seen some with both axels same but prob 5073LS only. Then some 1'' axels and some 1 1/8", very confused. I ain't giving up though, it's just too much fun except frustration of trying to get that !@#$% spring to stay put long enough to get caps together! It's Steve's fault for makin it look so easy.

 

And Steve glad you brought up 11/44 diff gear mesh, will eyeball that and Dave...thanks for bringin up :handgestures-thumbup:

Edited by groundhog47
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