Drilling into the frame

[randhad 8]

Has anyone had success drilling and tapping the frame? I've used Cobalt and Titanium bits w/oil. I've tried with pilot holes first - slow and steady. Nothing! I just dull the bits.

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,444]

Hmmm.....are you drilling into a welded section, that would be tougher?

Mike........

[slammer302 2,154]

I've had no problems drilling the frame just using cheap no name drill bits from work

[randhad 8]

No, not a welded section. I wish it was, that might make more sense.

 

I'm using the Rigid Cobalt and the DeWalt Titanium brand drill bits.

Edited February 1, 2015 by randhad

[SALTYWRIGHT 859]

YOUR DRILL IS TO FAST. USE A SLOW SPEED DRILL.

[Digger 66 3,476]

Dumb question but , is the drill in reverse ? 

Don't ask how I know .

[Kelly 1,028]

It's just mild steel, nothing special, I've drilled many of them. 

[pacer 3,159]

"I've drilled many of them"

 

Gosh, me too!! that shouldnt be any more difficult than any mild steel - like angle iron which it is - Possibly you have work hardened it a bit, making it a little more harder but still...Like mentioned, a good quality bit and slow speed should do it.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

YOUR DRILL IS TO FAST. USE A SLOW SPEED DRILL.

Yep, try drilling slower, and make sure the drill is turning the correct direction.

[randhad 8]

No, the drill is not in reverse.

 

Kelly, what type of drill bit?

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Use a slower speed and a lubricating oil so that you don't dull the bit. Drill a small pilot hole first. Once that is through it is easier, and then use progressively larger bits.

[oldredrider 2,547]

Rule of thumb for metal...the larger the hole, the slower the drill speed.

[randhad 8]

Thanks All, I'll sharpen the dulled bits and give it another try... Silly question - would the temp of the steel have any bearing? My attempts were on 20 degree days.

[Coadster32 793]

Temp would have nothing to do with it. Slower speed. Work hardening might have happened. If you suspect this, and you can get there, drill from the other side first. Doing this by hand should give you a great appreciation for what a good machine tool can do.   

[randhad 8]

Just to close the loop. For whatever reason, the Rigid and DeWalt drill bits weren't cutting it. I bought a Bit Doctor, sharpened them up and still no-go. Since I had the Bit Doctor I decided to clean up and try some old Black and Decker bits that I had since before I was married (over 25 years). Bingo!

 

Go figure.

 

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

Edited February 7, 2015 by randhad

[can whlvr 991]

I too find box store bits junk,i own a bit doctor and use it often,but heat is a drill bits worst enemy

[Kelly 1,028]

Also I drill 1/8" pilot holes first then go bigger if bigger than 3/8" I go 1/4" then up sometime trying to drill a big hole from the start don't work

[wmsue 4]

Good to know.

 

Thanks for sharing

[AMC RULES 36,941]

So, if the box store bits are junk...

who stocks the good ones these days? 

What is "the" brand to look for? 

[squonk 38,844]

When I worked at Napa. I started replacing my worn/broken bits with the std. Napa Hand Tool  line of drill bits. They were just plain std bits made by the same Co. that made B & D. They were the best bits ever. super sharp and lasted. I was replacing lot's of ball joints on the Chevy trucks and they worked the best on the rivets. That was 15 yrs. ago. Who know who makes the bits now.

 

We had a retired engineer who was a good customer that came in one day and the conversation turned to drill bit sharpening. He said the drill doctor only sharpens the point and there were several different angles in one bit. He offered to sharpen all of my bits by hand from 3/16 on up. I got them back 2 weeks later and it was unbelievable how easy they cut.He told me when the bits are made the machines can only sharpen them so much on one pass and it would cost a fortune for the companies to make bits as sharp as he could!

Edited February 7, 2015 by squonk