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Hendricksn

414-8 need electrical help

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You stated earlier that you jumped the solenoid to activate the starter. The battery cable on the solenoid that comes from the battery + lug always has power. Did you jump from that cable to the small terminal on the solenoid to activate the starter? If so that indicates the solenoid is OK.

 

That may be the case and the power available from the ignition switch is not sufficient to activate the solenoid. This may be indicated by a dimmer test light than if the tester is placed across the battery posts. Possible causes are corrosion on the wire terminals and switch terminals and it takes only one to do it. 

When the START is tried do you feel or hear that click in the switching relay?

 

Garry

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I used a screwdriver to jump the 2 large posts. And there's power coming in on the little orange wire when the key is in the START position.

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You need to jump from the large post that always has battery power to the small terminal on the solenoid. If that does not turn the engine over you need a solenoid.

 

Let us know.

 

Garry

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But if I do that. Nothing will happen because there's power coming into it when the key is in the start position. Unless you mean the other large post that goes over to the starter.

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Don't use the key at all. Just jump it like you did but jump to the small terminal. If the solenoid is still good that will make the starter motor run. You can do this with the key OFF. What you are doing is bypassing the tractor wiring to determine if the solenoid is OK.

 

There is a chance the wiring and ignition switch is not providing enough power to energize the solenoid. The solenoid is an electro magnet and does require a certain amount of power to create a magnetic force sufficient to close the internal contacts. Most solenoids have a spring to return the contacts to their open state so the magnet has to overcome that force also.

 

When you bypassed the solenoid before by jumping from one large cable to the other large cable you bypassed the solenoid. We now know the starter works.

By jumping to the small solenoid terminal we will determine if the solenoid works. If it causes the starter to run mission accompliched - solenoid is OK.

 

Garry

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I didn't get a chance to jump that yet. 5 degrees with a -20 degree wind chill. But I do remember the test light being pretty bright when I did the initial test. What would make the solenoid not work? Insufficient voltage?

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I didn't get a chance to jump that yet. 5 degrees with a -20 degree wind chill. But I do remember the test light being pretty bright when I did the initial test. What would make the solenoid not work? Insufficient voltage?

Have seen the small coil of wire that forms the electro magnet fail.

Have seen them overheat and melt plastic components that prevent the plunger from moving the contact plate to the contact/bolts. Suspect this is from cranking for an extended period of time.

Have seen the contact bolts burnt off enough to prevent a good solid electrical contact. This condition will make the thump sound of the plunger moving but insufficient power to the motor.

 

-22F tonight with a -38F wind chill. That's much warmer than last night. 

 

Garry

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It did not work. I put positive power into where the orange wire on the solenoid was hooked up and no click. Just the seat switch light came on on the dash. But on a positive note. Shes running and driving now. But just won't start or shut off with the key

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If the orange wire was connected to a small terminal on the solenoid it should have worked. They only other thing I can think of is the body of the solenoid needs to be grounded which is normally satisfied by the mounting bolts. Adding a ground wire to one of the mounting bolts would eliminate that problem.

 

Is there by chance a 2nd small terminal on the solenoid? If so ground that terminal with the above added wire.

 

The reason I'm asking about the orange wire position is the diagram shows a red wire which has likely faded.

 

Glad to hear it still runs. I was worried the ignition coil got fried.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

Garry

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Yes. There is another small black wire in the solenoid. Which runs into tye main wiring harness and disappears. Not really sure where it goes

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So you have 2 small terminals with an orange and a black going to them on the solenoid.

 

Take your test light and connect the lead to the battery + terminal. Touch the probe to the negative post to make sure the light is working. Now prob the black wire on the solenoid. If the light lights that black wire is grounded. If not it should be so add a jumper from that solenoid terminal to ground. Now do the test again to see if you get a light as you should. If yes go to the next step.

 

Jump the other small solenoid terminal to the hot battery cable and see if the solenoid energizes.

Don't use the key at all. Just jump it like you did but jump to the small terminal. If the solenoid is still good that will make the starter motor run. You can do this with the key OFF. What you are doing is bypassing the tractor wiring to determine if the solenoid is OK.

 

Let us know.

 

Garry

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I didn't do the whole test. But the test light lit up very dimly on the black terminal. And when I touched the test light on there. The seat switch light came on on the dash. And I may add that the volt meter and hour meter don't work. And they did work at one time. And the key doesn't shut the motor off either

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Remove the black wire from the small solenoid terminal. Is there a chance it is dark blue? It sounds like the ignition wire and should not go to the solenoid. Do NOT allow any power into that wire.

See if you can figure out where it goes. It could go to the engine or back to the seat switch and ignition switch.

 

With only one small wire on the solenoid see if the other small terminal has power in it when you try to start the tractor. I should light only with the key in the start position. Test lead on the negative battery post and the probe on the solenoid terminal with no wire. Do a normal start - clutch pedal down and pto OFF. If you do not get a light try the other small terminal to make sure power is getting to the solenoid from the key switch in the START position.

 

Let us know.

 

Garry

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Similar problem only this time on a 310-8. It has the M10. The black wire I assume was supposed to be a ground so I ran a separate wire from the - post on the battery to the on side of the solenoid and boom it fired right up. Now it won't turn off. The gauges shut off with the key so I know the motion is working. But if I remember right there's a kill wire? I don't know. Hoping someone will chime in

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