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Hendricksn

414-8 need electrical help

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Hi I have a 1988 414-8 I'm having a little trouble with my new to me 414-8. A little background on this tractor. I got this new one in pieces and I'm working on putting it back together. It's all back together now and the previous owner said it had a wiring problem. Now I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn with the key so I tried to jump the solenoid and it turns with no spark. Now i started checking the safety switches and when you turn the pto on with the lever. After 30 seconds it blows the 20 amp fuse. The 2 connectors on the switch don't look factory but the seat switch and the parking brake switch appear to be original. So I'm stuck. Not really sure where to go next. Any help would be greatly appreciated and it has the M14. Not the K321 that's what also has me stumped. Thanks

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Unplug the engine connector and jump the solenoid and see if you have spark. The magnum is a mag ignition. if she fires you probable will need at least a new switch for a mag ignition system.

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With the model number we should be able to come up with the correct wiring diagrams. There are at least 3 different ones for this model.

 

Garry

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Yes, the big pig tail on the motor all that's for is the charging system and to ground the mag to kill the motor. If you still have no spark you have a bad mag. Have spark, trace wires

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how do I bypass the pto safety switch? I get spark when I disconnect the big plug and I get spark. when I put the pto lever on it blows the fuse so something tells me it has something to do with that. thanks

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In case you didn't know your ignition is self-powered and the ignition wire simply grounds the ignition to shut it off. When it is not grounded you have spark as in when you disconnected the main connector.

 

DO NOT allow any battery voltage to get to that ignition wire - that will burn up the ignition coil.

 

If you can do it, replace the blown fuse with a light. One wire in each fuse terminal. A test light will work also - probe to one side and the ground wire to the other. When the short is present, the light will light. That gives you a chance to check wiring and components without constantly blowing fuses.

 

Does that make sense?

 

Garry

 

Adding - I hesitate to bypass pto switches because they handle both the ignition circuit and starter circuit. Too easy to slip and release the magic smoke from the ignition coil.

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It's something with the bottom connector. When you jump the 2 posts with a wire (blue and orange) you get a short. just like when the switch is open it also shorts

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Both the blue wire and the orange wire should not have any battery power in them - ever. These are the ignition wires I warned you about. What do you mean you get a short? Sparks fly? Blows a fuse?

 

Garry 

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Yes. A spark flies. And if I hold it there. Same thing if the safety switch is connected when the switch is open it dims the test lights and blows the fuse. I took the whole block out so I could move the switches individualy and it's the bottom one. When it's open it blows the fuse.

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I'm guess the block you speak of is the two pto switches.

 

One switch with the blue and orange wire is for the ignition. At rest this switch is closed - blue and orange connected. Push in the button and the switch opens - blue and orange disconnected.

 

The other switch with the tan and/or light blue and the purple wire is for the starter. At rest this switch is open - tan and/or light blue and the purple are not connected. Push in the button and the switch closes - tan and/or light blue and the purple are connected.

 

Are we still on the same page?

 

Garry

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Yes we are on the same page. The problem seems to be with the bottom switch (blue and Orange) I'm not really sure what the top one is doing because nothing happens when I push the button on the switch itself

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You better follow the orange to the seat switch and the blue to the M terminal on the ignition switch. The blue also goes to the magneto ignition in the engine. There should not be power in any of these wires so suspect they are not connected to the proper locations.

 

Make sure the ignition switch has an M terminal. If not it's the wrong switch.

 

Garry

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They Orange is wire nutted to the Orange and the black is nutted to the black and the green is in touched. The ignition has 5 prongs. I'll check for an m terminal tomorrow. And also. The key start won't turn the motor over. I was jumping the solenoid with a screw driver. But the key start was switching power I tested it with a test light.

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I suggest you disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery and isolate it so it does not accidently touch the post again.

 

Follow that blue wire and find out what it is connected to. Let us know what you find.

 

Garry

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Is the blue wire supposed to have power? And just curious what's the purpose of removing the negative side of the battery cable? Thanks for your help I really appreciate it

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The blue wire should not have power in it. If power gets to the ignition coil you will be looking for a replacement coil and that blue wire should be connected to the coil. That is why I suggested you disconnect the negative battery cable - simply a step to preserve the coil. I hope the ignition coil is still OK.

You need to find out how that blue wire is getting power.

 

When disconnecting a battery always disconnect the negative cable first - then disconnect the positive cable last.

When hooking a battery back up connect the positive cable first - then connect the negative cable last.

 

The reason for this is if you accidentally short the wrench on the positive post to the chassis no harm is done because the negative post is not connected.

Now that the positive cable is on if you short the wrench on the negative post to the chassis still no harm done because they are both ground.

 

Garry

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