chipwitch 73 #1 Posted January 28, 2015 I realize there's no universally accepted color code when it comes to wiring harnesses in vehicles, but I have to wonder why the D160 wiring diagram indicates a color code that is converse to every other vehicle I've ever seen (not that I've seen a lot). Can anyone explain to me why Wheel Horse thought this was a good idea? If they had used a positive ground system, I could at least make some sense of it that way. Also, I'm probably going to rewire the entire harness. How do most people handle this? I'm inclined to swap the reds for blacks and vice versa. Good idea? Bad? Thoughts? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #2 Posted January 28, 2015 I havent looked at the diagram that you refer too, but I would be in favor of switching it to modern accepted standards... I haven't heard anyone else mention this, but to be honest I havent seen much in the way of D wiring either... I am assuming there is an electrical problem that you are trying to fix... if its working I wouldn't bother, but if you are having to fix a lot of wires anyway then it would be worth your while. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chipwitch 73 #3 Posted January 28, 2015 Just got a new tractor and the wiring is in rough shape, in general. It's not an overly complicated circuit. Just frayed wires, loose ends and the like. It would be nice to start fresh. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chipwitch 73 #4 Posted January 28, 2015 This is from the "B C D Service Manual." It shows the C pretty much the same. However, the B, though the colors aren't labeled as well, does show a red wire common to the positive battery lead at the solenoid. So, doesn't even look like they were consistent in the same year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chipwitch 73 #5 Posted January 28, 2015 Here's the link if anyone is interested wh_bcd.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
"D"- Man 827 #6 Posted January 28, 2015 I think I would use Red for the B+ battery to solenoid cable. The solenoid to ammeter wire is labeled Red in my 18 Automatic wiring diagram, then light green from there to the ignition switch B terminal. I think when I rewire mine I will use Red here as well, Mark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JackC 616 #7 Posted January 28, 2015 I personally would try to match the original configuration and conventions. If you go to sell it, closer to original is usually better and the wiring will match the WH documentation if someone else needs to get into it. Used wiring harnesses do come up from time to time on eBay or a member here may have one for sale. Joe's Outdoor Power may have a few. JMHO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #8 Posted January 28, 2015 If the battery cables are in decent shape, just slip a section of red heat shrink tubing over the battery terminals to provide a visual clue to which cable is positive and which is negative. A high ratio 3:1 or 4:1 shrink rate may be needed to slip the heatshrink over the terminals. If the cables will be replaced, by all means use the red = positive color code for the replacement cable. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #9 Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) or in the case where you choose a one color harness to save big $$ on buying 8 separate spools of different color wire, laser print some labels and use clear heat-shrink to label the wire ends by function I can't say for sure how these held up - I sold that tractor a few years back. Edited January 28, 2015 by Save Old Iron 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #10 Posted January 28, 2015 It would be nice to start fresh. That's what you would do if I were me . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chipwitch 73 #11 Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) @Savesoldiron... good idea on the shrink wrap. Maybe even using Amazing Goop/Shoe Goo etc. instead of heat shrink Edited January 28, 2015 by chipwitch Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #12 Posted January 28, 2015 @Savesoldiron... good idea on the shrink wrap. Maybe even using Amazing Goop/Shoe Goo etc. instead of heat shrink or maybe even the 99 cent store version Not So Amazing Shoe Goop but seriously, goop painted over with Toluene, makes a smooth, professional looking rubber strain relief 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #13 Posted January 29, 2015 CW, from someone you might recognize on the "other site" 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chipwitch 73 #14 Posted January 29, 2015 Yep, that's where I got it! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chesbaycruiser 82 #15 Posted January 29, 2015 CW, from someone you might recognize on the "other site" I did not know that! Very cool...thanks for posting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #16 Posted January 29, 2015 I did not know that! Very cool...thanks for posting. great for weather proofing and turning the hard plastic feel of shift knobs into no slip grip feel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #17 Posted January 29, 2015 Question in my mind would be is this a positive ground circuit? I believe that Chrysler products had a positive ground setup back in the 1940s. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hodge71 662 #18 Posted January 29, 2015 Question in my mind would be is this a positive ground circuit? I believe that Chrysler products had a positive ground setup back in the 1940s. I think everything had a positive ground back in the 40's and 50's. I had a Ford 2n, 9n and 8n and all of them were positive ground 6 volt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chipwitch 73 #19 Posted January 29, 2015 No, it isn't a positive ground. Diagram shows negative to ground, the wiring just happens to be red. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites