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LED headlight upgrade

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When I got my Work Horse, I found out one of the 4411 headlights was burned out. I've always been critical of tractor headlights, from the 1157s on my Cub Cadet to the 4411s on the Farmall, and the lone 4411 on the Horse sent me over the edge. Seemed like if I squinted I could see better than with the headlight on.

I didn't want to pay the $74 for the Trilliant direct replacement and the market is flooded with cheap Chinese LEDs, so I picked up a set of 4" round "off-road" type LEDs from Amazon for $35. I made sure to get the 30 degree spot pattern as I've always been dissatisfied with how the LED beam never throws very far.

Got to work on the project a few nights ago and it went smoothly by my standards.

Quick summary:

Bent the two tabs on each headlight hole (intended to orient the 4411) backward until I was left with a good 4" round hole. No sheet metal has been cut off or modified such that the original 4411s couldn't get dropped back in.

I test fit the new lamps and found they were a great interference fit, so I grabbed a C-clamp and squeezed them into place. Because the new lamps are meant to mount on the exterior, they have a slight 1/2" hood on the top to keep weather off the lenses. I intended to cut it off eventually but left it on during test fitting, and it worked well so I kept it around.

I removed the headlight bezels during fitting and haven't decided if I like them on or off. I think I get more light off but the grill looks nicer complete.

Had to make a change to the wiring harness, going from a double spade connector to a single, and covering it with a length of shrink tube to prevent shorting. I might switch to a double bullet connector but again, I'm leaving well enough alone.

Took it for a ride around the yard and the lights didn't drop out, but I cut a piece of aluminum to back them up just in case. I'll try to get some beam shots and a finished picture tonight. I'm not quite sure if I like the 30 degree beams vs the 60 degree floods (haven't had a chance to try them), but the 30s definitely throw like they're supposed to. I think once I aim them properly, I'll get the spill I want. Also, the light pulses at less than operating speed so I think I'll run a direct line from the battery, switched like stock, so it receives a constant 12v up to 13.5v when charging.

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Edited by clip
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Digger 66

Run one flood & one spot or projector .

Lots of guys are doing this on their wheelers . 

 

Or pick up a Rigid-industries LED bar & affix a magnet to the back for temporary sunshine while you're plowing .

Edited by Digger 66

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AMC RULES

:confusion-shrug:  Waiting patiently for those night time picts.   :eusa-clap:

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Digger 66

There's a before & after pic at the bottom HERE

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clip

Digger, I've seen a single 60 degree on Amazon and Ebay for around $18, was thinking of picking that up and running it in place of one of the 30s, was also thinking about getting two light bars like you suggested and mounting them inside on the sides of the hood where it angles inward, so they'll be angled toward the ground. I was thinking that would give me quite a flood sideways (and one in the back!)

 

Craig, starting to get dark here. Stay tuned!

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Digger 66

Honestly check out http://www.rigidindustries.com/ .

They're far & away better than the junk on flea-bay .

I'm redoing the incandescent lighting inside my sled trailer soon & will go with these . 

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clip

Took a few sets of pictures, the first are at 1/15 sec shutter speed, ISO 3200, f1/4. This is as close as I could get the picture to resemble what I was seeing. The fence line ends 90 feet away, that rock is about 150 feet away, and the low brick wall way out there is about 300 feet away. These were taken at operating speed.

 

IMG_0305.jpg

 

From 90 feet

 

IMG_0304.jpg

 

At 150 feet you can see the trees directly to the right of the rock are being lit by my headlights, but the mailbox is catching someone's headlights down the road.

 

IMG_0302.jpg

 

Here's the control shot at 1/30 sec, everything else constant. Only light is from the outdoor light on the shed.

 

IMG_0310.jpg

 

1/30, operating

 

IMG_0306.jpg

 

1/60 sec, idle

 

IMG_0286.jpg

 

1/60 operating

 

IMG_0282.jpg

 

 

1/60 at grill

 

IMG_0298.jpg

 

 

Edited by clip
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AMC RULES

:scared-eek:  Big difference when throttled up.  :text-coolphotos:

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doc724

Clip,

 

What actually holds the new lights into the hood, just the interference fit to the sheet metal?

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clip

Doc, it had been an interference fit for wiring, testing and the first ride around the yard (I was impatient :)), but the next day I secured everything with a 14" 1x1/8 aluminum flat bar. I held that on with 2.5" 1/4-20s in the original 4411 retaining clip locations. Will provide a picture soon.

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doc724

Clip, thx.  I don't need a pix.  Based on your description I can visualize what you did.  That is a good low cost solution.  Nice clean install as  well!

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clip

For future reference, a picture of the aluminum bar and cable management.

0ECABBD7-58AF-4976-868D-6B8C3C1FF755_1.j

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After studying the wiring diagram, I noticed the headlights are receiving AC instead of 12v DC. Suspect this is why they flicker at idle. Ordered a 10A bridge rectifier to convert to DC in hopes that'll end the flickering. I think they'll still dim at idle but will hopefully be constant.

The other option is to run the lights directly from the battery or the DC accessory terminal on the keyswitch, but I think both of those get their current from the DC rectified lead from the alternator. I'd rather use the dual leads and keep the DC lead free to charge the battery.

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doc724

I put LED taillights on my 1998 314.  No flickering.  My neighbor put LED headlights on his JD 314 (it is a late 1980's machine approximately).  His LED's flickered.  He thought it was because that engine vintage uses points for ignition.  Not saying his analysis was correct, just sharing.

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clip

What source did you use for your LED tails? Straight off the battery? Also, can you post a link to the LEDs you used?

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nikond3100

yes I would love to no that 2 as my wh has no eyes lol

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clip

Never got to put the rectifier on, but at 50% throttle and up the LEDs are flashing too quickly for me to tell so it doesn't bother me. Also seems like the diode is blocking the reverse current sufficiently.

If I had to do it again I'd probably go with the 60 degree flood beams, or put a light bar above the mule drive for general area lighting. After aiming the 30 degree spots, I've got a wider beam spread but the 60s would mean a little less work to do.

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bamaboyz71

I would like to find some old lights for my 1960 suburban and one maybe on the back fender. just don't want to put any holes anywhere

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Al C.

I did an LED headlight upgrade on a T1067 last summer.  They flickered initially.   I tighten the sockets and connections and it fixed it.   LED's seem much more sensitive to vibration than the old incandescent. 

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Austin860

Put some halogens on my snow cab and they light up the whole block haha! I can see probably 100 yards down the street.

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wrightorchid

I prefer halogen lights for brightness, and distance throw.  LED's tend to degrade/diminish greatly over distance.  

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bmsgaffer

I prefer halogen lights for brightness, and distance throw.  LED's tend to degrade/diminish greatly over distance.  

 

That's a common problem with the earlier LED's or the cheap models. With proper power and optics ($$$ but the prices are getting better every day) they can outperform halogen especially when you are looking at the power they consume from our tractors' small charging systems.

 

Some auto manufacturers are already using LED's for their main headlights. (But dont expect to find them on ebay for $100)

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wrightorchid

The power consumption is very low on the LED's so this is certainly a need for some of the smaller tractors.

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bmsgaffer

Its lower, but the ones that are VERY low are the ones to stay away from. The equivalent LED upgrades should still be drawing upwards of 20W each vs the halogen's 50. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Edited by bmsgaffer

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clip

The ones on the Work Horse, above, are 27w each. IIRC the 4411 lights are rated at 35w.

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