Indicator Board no longer a "Major" pain

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Thanks to M_Bailey for furthering the cause of investigating repair of the 300 - 400 series WH indicator boards.

 

The question was asked "can you save this"

 

 

 

 

 

the answer is ..........  yes!

 

clean up the burned area

 

 

 

 

and fill with an epoxy gel

 

 

 

 

a little trimming and smoothing and Viola

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and we have a decent base to apply copper foil to restore the additional two contacts lost to this burnout.

 

 

Major, I installed a blinking LOW OIL circuit and all the protective upgrades to keep you happy for years to come.

 

Let me know if you would like LED's installed onto the circuit board. I am currently investigating 2 options. The first option is to install smaller LED's which will fit directly into the red lenses mounted on the tractor hoodstand, and the 2nd option is to install larger LED's which will be able to protrude directly out the holes in the hoodstand and allow the owner to remove all the lenses on the hoodstand. So if you have all your lenses and prefer that look, smaller LED's are the choice. If you are missing some of the red lenses and would like a larger red LED mounted directly in the hoodstand hole, I am looking into 10mm sized LEDs to fit directly in the hole w/o need for lenses.

[Molon_Labe 731]

Chuck you never cease amaze me!! I believe the LED would be the way to go to eliminate the lens and rubber grommets (less is better). I currently have 4 of the 5 lenses that came with the tractor and really don't want to go that route if possible. The original design was poor to begin with and the replacement LED is superior in all ways. Another factor is that this tractor will never spend another day outside for as long as it is under my care so moisture ingress would not be a consideration in it's longevity. If it helps here is what the dash panel cutout opening is for the factory lens, .34 inches.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

good deal

 

0.40 inch = 10+ mm, so a standard 10mm red LED should fit perfectly into the lense holes in the hoodstand. I do have a bag of 10mm's on order, slow boat across the pacific, so they will probably be here in early January.

[Molon_Labe 731]

Chuck I think a 10mm would be too large for the hole which measures .34 not .4 inches. or about 8.6mm. The dial caliper in the above pic is in 1/1000 increments added to whatever is shown on the vernier scale.

[jackhammer 544]

Well if anyone could have salvaged this board ,  back in my mind I knew it was you SOI .. Keep up your great experiments, beneficial in a way to all of us

[wrightorchid 261]

This is fantastic.  One of the weak links really improved.  

[km3h 543]

AS usual Chuck, you did it again. My hat is off to you and the continued service you provide to our members.  

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Chuck If it helps here is what the dash panel cutout opening is for the factory lens, .34 inches.

SAM_0522.JPG

 

Doooh!

 

Sorry about the confusion of 10mm vs 8mm. All the direct readout digital calipers I use make you expect the "final answer" is displayed on the dial.

 

I have both sizes on order and scheduled to arrive any day now.

[Molon_Labe 731]

Doooh!

 

Sorry about the confusion of 10mm vs 8mm. All the direct readout digital calipers I use make you expect the "final answer" is displayed on the dial.

 

I have both sizes on order and scheduled to arrive any day now.

 

I'm just an old analog kind of guy. Still prefer to use my Simpson 260 over my Fluke 77

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

Nice going so far, enjoying the "save". Real clean work.

Glenn

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

I'm just an old analog kind of guy. Still prefer to use my Simpson 260 over my Fluke 77

 

OKey dokey. All future repair to this board will be done with my first meter ... a Simpson 260 and a period appropriate Power Designs TP343A power supply cranking out vintage electrons to power the circuit board. I'll even break out my vintage 1980's roll of Kester 44 solder especially for you!

Edited December 24, 2014 by Save Old Iron

[Molon_Labe 731]

OKey dokey. All future repair to this board will be done with my first meter ... a Simpson 260 and a period appropriate Power Designs TP343A power supply cranking out vintage electrons to power the circuit board. I'll even break out my vintage 1980's roll of Kester 44 solder especially for you!

 

Chuck it just doesn't get any better than that!! I still refer to Shrader's Electronic Communications Second Edition and Forrest Mims Engineers Notebooks from time to time. Does that date me?

Edited December 24, 2014 by M_Bailey

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

yeah, it does.

 

I still have my Mims RadioShack notebooks.

 

You might be interested in this

 

http://www.theamphour.com/171-an-interview-with-forrest-mims-snell-solisequious-scientist/

[JC 1965 1,528]

Wow Chuck,  What you can do with electronics amazes me.  

[Crown Vic P71 20]

I just got a 312-8 and two of the lights always stay on. Both of my safety switches work as they are supposed to leaving me to think its a problem with the board... do you think you could save mine?

Edited January 22, 2015 by TractorfanC125

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

We can certainly give the 300 series indicator a look / see.

 

I have not confirmed a 300 series indicator is the exact same as the 400's I have been working with to date. I have not yet confirmed it will function in my test jig but we are about to find out.

 

Yes. I will give it a shot.

 

PM sent.

[Crown Vic P71 20]

Thank you! I sent a PM in reply!

[Coadster32 793]

Amazing is the right word.. Great work Chuck!!

[Crown Vic P71 20]

Here are some pictures of the board.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Looks like a well preserved 1st generation board. Should be no problem to repair.

[can whlvr 991]

nice repair,are you going to repair others boards,of coarse for a fee ?

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

nice repair,are you going to repair others boards,of coarse for a fee ?

PM sent