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psalms83:18

hydro eaton 1100

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Anybody know how I can push or pull oil through the system in order to "bleed" the lines??

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I think if you filled the system best you could before reassembly, all you have to do is run it. (according to the manual)

 

Just keep a CLOSE eye on the oil level for the first few minutes. I would run it for 30 secs to a minute then top off to full. Then repeat until the level isnt dropping much anymore.

 

It should purge air from the system by running it and operating the lift up and down for a few minutes.

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I was just given a spec manual from a eaton tech, for the eaton 1100 models. Never realized there were sooooo many different 1100 models. It also recommends 20w oil. And gives the info on optional oil filters. I'm having difficulty putting it on the manuals page with my iPad.

post-14261-0-02900600-1418077739_thumb.jpost-14261-0-35667900-1418077765_thumb.jpost-14261-0-09844400-1418077789_thumb.j

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i got this oil pump that i am going to try to hook up to the filter in and out,... and hopefully will be able to draw oil from the case, up through the hydro, through the lines and hydraulic lever box thingy. And if i can: flip it and pump back the other way! Then there should be no question of the charge pump not priming the hydro. :confusion-seeingstars:   :pray:

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Why are you making things so complicated. Just follow the instruction in the manual. they write them for a reason.

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This photo of the manual...post-14261-0-73256300-1418161139_thumb.j

Very informative !

But worthless

Excuse me For bein in a pissy mood, but bleeding the lines was rather annoying and of coarse didn't help...

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Only reason anything gets complicated or tasks performed outside of the "norm", is when the norm didn't work!

I have tried everything someone has mentioned.....including and especially the EATON techs who build the stupid things. All the professionals say, refurbish rarely works buy anew one or refurbish it! And the eaton tech sais EVERY EVERY EVERY bubble needs to be bled out!!!!! I thought that was a bit excessive but I tried it.

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I think that 'every, every bubble' is excessive too - in fact if every thing is OK you shouldnt need to bleed. The common method is to work all controls back and forth - up/down fwd/rev. etc several times (if that) and should be good.

 

I think I described my recent adventure with my 1100, I got the tractor after sitting in field for some 20 odd years with no oil showing on dip stick, wanting to check engine first I got it running and determined it was OK, so tried the tranny next and it would do nothing, started adding fluid and after about 2-3 pints it started driving the wheels, ended up adding about 5-6 pints to top it off and the tranny works great - no bleeding. Then later the hoses were leaking and I disassembled everything involved with that losing maybe 2-3 pints, on reassembly all I did was actuate the cylinder a few times - which really didnt need it as it worked from the first action.

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I like that.

I have pushed and pulled on every lever. I wish mine would just getup and go like that.

But since it didn't I can only presume and ponder!.?

Recap

First hydro when filled with oil and filter would bubble the oil, make the hydraulic move barely every now and then, wouldn't lock up when rolled, made no noises, had oil in it and lines when I disconnected it. hydro wouldn't come up to necessary psi?

Second hydro, supposedly worked year and half ago, filled with oil then installed, filled with more oil into hydro and lines, with no movement of wheels or hydraulics, no noise, and doesn't lock up when rolled?

When I had the first hydro on(original), I had it lifted off the ground and I turned one wheel and other spun freely, I ran machine and in operation the tires moved back forth barely, but couldn't move itself on the ground.

Original oil looked good, no burnt no shavings no pudding. And no noises when moved. I think I remember seeing the gears spin when I had the hydro out. So it can't be the transfer case right? New belt definitely not slipping.

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I think that 'every, every bubble' is excessive too - in fact if every thing is OK you shouldnt need to bleed...

Every time I read this it makes me think maybe something isn't ok. And from my constant reading from the manuals, I think it's the charge pump? Anyone else kinda whiffing that? With my last post of summary, I think I didn't leave anything out?

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Have you followed the trouble shooting chart?

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Yeah, when I was first learning bout this stuff just last month that's what everyone started with saying, saying what the manuals said in the trouble shooting guide, and other parts of the manuals.

I tried for what I could... It always seems to end with repair or replace? What kind of answer is that! Not one I was hoping for.

But really though I did try to follow the trees and repair or replace,,,

I even tried to bypass and omit the hydraulic lift parts all together, when that didn't work I tried cracking the fitting on the hydro that goes to the filter and nothing was coming out. Sounds suspicious don't it.

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Then follow then follow the chart. When you get to a point that's says repair then that's what you do. The steps are lined out in a sequence that will take you to a working unit. If you get to a step you don't understand then ask questions. if you go out in left field its hard for anyone to help you. Step by step will he the unit repaired. When you stray from the chart you could create other problems that will have to be addressed later on.

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Whats the part number on the filter you put on the trans.?  I remember seeing on here a lot that only a hydraulic type filter should be used because a lot of the engine oil filters will fit but internally are setup wrong.   When you first had it moving on jack stands was it with the old filter or the stp filter that's on it now?  

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Just to check in where you are at (forgive me if these have been asked before):

 

Does the implement lift work?

 

if Yes:

Have you checked to make sure that the axles are not spinning in the hubs (i cant remember if this has been addressed before)? Have seen lots of issues where the keys were broken and the axle was just spinning on one side...

 

if no:

have you removed the scavenging tube from the transmission sump to make sure that it is clear and the pump can pull up the oil it needs?

 

Have to hooked a gauge to it like the manual recommends to test oil pressure?

Does the unit make any noise when you are pushing the motion lever forward?

Have you checked hoses and tubes for dents or collapse?

 

My gut feeling is that if you have two completely unrelated pump/motor units that have the same problem when installed, the problem is somewhere else. :eusa-think:

 

I really want you to get this thing knocked out! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Looking back at things, at this point, i am putting my money on one of the hoses or hard tubes being damaged or clogged... *fingers crossed*

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Assuming you have checked everything above:

Definitely check the hydro filter.  DO NOT use an engine oil filter.  Heat the trans/pump for a long time (several hours) with a good electric disc heater (no flame) or magnetic block heater.  20 or 30 weight oil at 24 degrees F does not like to move in a hurry. Your pump/hydro assembly has cavities and journals that are much smaller than your typical engine- And one of the reasons it makes tremendous pressure. You need to get that stuff good and warm before it will really flow everywhere it needs to be.  Keep the rear wheels just off the ground like before.  Work your pump back and forth and work the lift up and down.  Any time you bleed air from a hydro system you want to keep those tires off the ground to prevent any additional/premature wear.  You won't hurt the system by moving the components (with air still in the lines) as long as you are free-wheeling and there is no load on the machine/tires. Again, assuming you have checked all else from previous posts (clogged suction line, etc) I would say the filter and cold fluid could be the culprit.  Not trying to insult you but once you get it figured out and back up to speed make sure you always let that machine warm up, especially so on those frigid days.  You would be amazed at how many people and "professionals" take off at full speed before their starter seems to even wind down.  If it's hydro it needs to be warm if you want it to last a lifetime. If you bought your new pump from a known member of this site I am fairly certain it is a good working model as they said. The majority of this group are here to help and only want to see you get moving again. Best of luck and please keep posting updates.

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all really good suggestions i will work at everything mentioned. just give me a couple days.

To answer a few questions: originally when the tires moved it was the old filter//// point taken will try to get proper filter....

i have not disassembled anything other than the hydro and accompanining lines.... i was concerned lately about the sump line draw tube... i will strip it and try to annalyize

I have not tried warming anything,.... i like that idea it coincides with other info i been reading... so i will try that next time

and analyzing the tubes, i dont see any bubbles wear crimp scratch or dent, they all look really healthy.

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Huh?? What's those tire tracks from??

post-14261-0-98368200-1418346226_thumb.jpost-14261-0-06908100-1418346299_thumb.j

And what's that!! staring out of the shed in the distance?

Edited by psalms83:18
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Could it be you got that horse to gallop again?

 

post-2221-0-93480500-1418347976.jpg

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We'll guys I gotta say, I might be difficult to deal with sometimes, but I appreciate all your advise and help!

I went out today after doing my research on selling the WH piece by piece, and I had about had it!

So again I prayed ; is this red beast going to be a blessing or a curse!!

I heated up the oil checked the lines again heated it up some more, checked the wheel key holes, checked oil levels, heated it up some more, and all the time remembering a line from a manual I think I can find it...... Ok can't find it right now but someone or a manual stated... Reinstall pump, run the engine then "shut off" ...THEN transmission is ready. Made me think after it had settled overnight it might be ready. Sure enough when I got her running I grabbed the hydraulic lever and it moved!! I felt the control arm on the hydro and for the first time felt like there was something there!!

It did move about a foot then lost it! But after letting it sit Again, actuating the hydraulics and the hydro, turning it back on, it moved a couple feet!! So back and forth on off actuating on off (low rpm by the way cause someone mentioned it was better to get it primed low rpm than full out) off and actuating on and actuating. After about the fifth cycle I could get it to move forward what seemed with out it bugging out on me. Then I tried reverse, and it crapped out. So another 4-5 cycles later reverse works a little.

Things are a little finicky buggy but I'm sure ...it "might" smooth out! So here comes another oil change and filter also.

Thanks so much for everyone's opinions and advise!! Thank everyone for all your help.

In the spring I'm gonna try reinstalling the old hydro and cycling it...to see if it works or not. Coarse then I'm gonna strip the whole thing down and give it a new custom look!! My bro has a motorcycle fabricating shop, makes Jesse James look like a kid with a cub cadet!!

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So when I run it for a few minutes then shut it off and check the oil. I'm still getting some super tiny bubbles that aren't noticeable by the naked eye, but it's turning the oil a lighter color, then when it settles they all come together and dissipate..... Yeah I mean super tiny bubbles. Like the size or smaller than this period. . "

Is that natural?? Is it gonna be detrimental to the viscosity of the oil?? And or the hydro??

Or am I still drawing in air somewhere??

Edited by psalms83:18

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If it aint broke dont fix it if there is no leaks from the lines then they arnt cracked id say just run it and give it time.

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