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psalms83:18

hydro eaton 1100

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Anyone have any success at rebuilding a eaton 1100??

 

i looked and couldnt find a thread on here anywhere?

 

Maybe you got a good story and hoppefully some pics :popcorn:

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Its hard to find any info on eaton rebuilding. Companies do it though, so its definitely possible. I don't know what kind of specialized equipment you might need though.

 

In reference to your classified post: I think you should try other hydro shops.

 

This company lists the eaton 11 (thats the model of eaton our tractors use, i think the 1100 is denoted for wheel horses) as something the specialize in: http://www.woosterhydrostatics.com/eaton-hydraulic-pump-repair.aspx

So i think if they were really "disposable" as your last guy said then they would dedicate a company to it...

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i have been reading the manual online that we got here on redsquare, its great and informative, and i think i could take it apart and put back together. But if anyone has any history with doing it i would appreciate it also. Cause i know reading a manual and performing the task is two different battles. (sometimes the reading is the tougher battle). :teasing-signhere:    

While reading the manual it seems like some pain in the :angry-cussingblack:  moments, with the acceleration bearings and some of the weird throwout style pins. Im hoping that just moving everything inside will free anything that may be stuck. one guy on here said he even ran alittle oil and diesel fuel through his to clean it up. Though my oil looks great i replaced it and ran it somemore and still no discoloration. Im hoping that like everything else on this tractor,  disasssembly with some :angry-steamingears:  will fix it. :tools-hammerdrill:  So anyones input is helpful , especially those who might have torn through their hydro allready :handgestures-fingerscrossed:

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from a thread sometime ago,, many people mentioned a screw for possible burping purposes???

I seem to be getting some fluid flow since i changed the oil and filter the lifter hydraulics would move very rarely about 1/2 inch very rarely mind you.. I was hopeing moving the lift would help flow the oil but it didnt seem much an improvement. When i did change the oil only 3 qts went in and it still went above the full line??

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No help on your OP - repairing the 1100, but I can comment on the "burp" post.

 

I just finished replacing the 4 hyd hoses on my C-175 (what a pain!!) I had problems with routing the hoses and leaks and had to remove and replace them 3-4 times, each time starting the tractor to see if I had the leak or routing corrected. I also replaced the filter at some point, never adding fluid and not once was there a hint of air - which surprised me. I couldnt drive it but would run the cylinder in and out several times. On finally getting everything done I started adding fluid and ended up with almost a quart to re-top it off. When I pulled out of the shop the tranny performed great showing no sign of ever having lost that much fluid. This is my first Eaton after 2-3 Sundstrands and -- I like it!!

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Hmmmm where to start

Here comes my little helper

post-14261-0-21624500-1416958906_thumb.j

First she sais to remove this! So I said go aheadpost-14261-0-27181500-1416958998_thumb.j

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Once she got that off I found out the hard way not to remove this hose by this bolt!! Use a crows foot for the lower bolt on the bend.

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Then on the brake side just disassemble the whole side it helps to get that lower bolt off.

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How about about this when your fighting to get the hydro off!! Trust me the 5lb didn't work!

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And a few more random picspost-14261-0-99695600-1416959589_thumb.j

When your all done fighting with it just remove the whole rear end especially if you didn't have a crows foot and needed to remove the oil filter line with the hydro!! Probably better off removing this rear end anyway it's just four bolts ( it will drop on you quick watch out) and gives much more room for a quicker disassembly

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And now I'm done with throw it away and get anew one cause you will probably just break the hex bolts right their anyway!!!post-14261-0-15600000-1416959777_thumb.j

Edited by psalms83:18
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What a pain!!! But fun!! When I spin the gear side of the hydro it sounds like there is a ball loose rolling around...

And the fan side when it was attached I ran the engine to get speed on the pulley and there was little to no suction on the top suction line from the tank....

Plus busted Allen bolts and snow tomorrow I'm done with that trash.... Maybe worth taking it apart throughout the winter...maybe.

But it supposedly ran great before she stopped moving,,, I find it hard to believe the hydro fell apart from sitting,, it's such an enclosed part and with good oil still in it I can believe its so crapped up.

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What a pain!!! But fun!! When I spin the gear side of the hydro it sounds like there is a ball loose rolling around...

And the fan side when it was attached I ran the engine to get speed on the pulley and there was little to no suction on the top suction line from the tank....

Plus busted Allen bolts and snow tomorrow I'm done with that trash.... Maybe worth taking it apart throughout the winter...maybe.

But it supposedly ran great before she stopped moving,,, I find it hard to believe the hydro fell apart from sitting,, it's such an enclosed part and with good oil still in it I can believe its so crapped up.

 

I have only dealt with Sundstrands, but i have picked up several used ones..all came from "Good Working" Tractors.  Every single one had issues, some pretty serious. 

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what u mean everyone of them had issues??? That kinda scares me... im in process of buying a used one now off someone here :eusa-think::crying-green:

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The only issues I have seen is not taking proper care of the trans with proper oil changes, tightening the hubs, and keeping the cooling fins clean. I have a few sunstrand and Eaton 1100's and with proper care, they will last a long time. All of my hydro's are filled with Mobil 1 and it does make a Big Difference in performance and smoothness of operation. For me personally i would buy any WH hydro over a manual trans any day.

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what u mean everyone of them had issues??? That kinda scares me... im in process of buying a used one now off someone here :eusa-think::crying-green:

You need to re-read....HIS EXPERIENCE has been poor with the Sunstrand, which is totally different then Eaton 1100, which is what you are talking about. Yes there is going to be some abused 1100's, that will no longer function properly as with anything. I have had a fair share of them over time and never a bad one.

I suggest reading more then one opinion before worrying about fixing or not fixing your tractor.

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The Eaton 1100 is a very good transmission and still suported by Eaten and you can still get parts for it. If taken care of properly they are darn near industructable. Sitting outside and not changing the oil and filter will do it. The oil turns to buttermilk and the water cloggs up everything and this is mostly due to limited use. Mine looked like that when I got it, but still worked properly. Changed the oil three times and the filter twice (washed old filter the first change) to get all the crud out. It works fine and has for a bunch of years. I know it is a pain in the rear, but stick with it and you will be rewarded with a transmission that will keep right on working for the rest of your life with no problems.  :)

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Thanks guys...I am purchasing a new one and when I rip into this older one I will continue this post...give me about 2 weeks ish

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My guess as to why these two eaton1100 are different and with different stamps (can anyone help me realize what these stamps are?) would be because they were made in different foundry or factorys? Because the new eaton I got (on the right) is not fittin in....

Seems maybe microns difference, but I can't see easily if it's hitting in which spot.

Is the drain hole recess on the bottom of the older model, a necessary modification? Will the newer model without it come up with problems?

Will sanding the male and female sides to this issue maybe fix it or will lathing or something more severe be required?? Has anyone experienced such an issue???

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Edited by psalms83:18

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Did you count the teeth on the gear?

 

Apparently there were three different eaton transmissions that had 3 different top speeds and I believe the only difference between them was the gear on the motor (what you have in the pictures) and the mating gear in the transmission.

 

You could just pop the gear off your old one and try that on the new one...

 

(this is all assuming you did not already do this, and I cant seem to count gear teeth on a laptop screen at midnight)

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Nevermind, I was able to count them finally and they were both 22 tooth. Still might be worth a try to put on your old gear, but they should be the same.

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So I switched the gears before I gave it a second attempt..

With a little wiggle and some elbow grease ..she slipped right in!! Maybe it was the gear?!

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Wow it's cold...first thing I recommend when working on an eaton 1100 is heat! In the winter!

But sad to say the new hydro still has same issue. I filled the new hydro from every direction and fitting and when running it wasn't moving oil. So I tried bleeding from one of the out lines to the filter, being careful incase when it did start pressure not to have any flesh in path of high pressure escaping oil! That did nothing, I tried rocking and rolling back and forth, nothing!! Tried wiggling the lift hydraulics, nothing! No belts slipping engine is revn at some serious rpm!! Hmmmm gonna go back to the diagnosis from the manual see what that sais? Usually sais get a "replace unit"

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What's the chance that the charging pump is no good on both units??

Maybe I didn't fill the charging pump enough to start the suction??

The oil originally looked good and things moved freely, what's the chance of one of the incoming lines being clogged??

I seen on some peoples post they had a filter inside the case, but I never seen one on the diagrams for this model??

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I think the chance of both of them being bad is pretty slim. (which is great news, it means you probably have two good units there)

Ill jave to get to my computer to check out the manuals, but off the top of my head: make sure you have the right filter and also look into your lift valve. All the fluid goes through the charge pump, through the valve and then back to the filter.

Also check if any of the hoses feeding that are pinched or collapsed (they may be collapsed internally). You might want to get new hoses anyway since you have it torn down this far...

Edited by bmsgaffer

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I have a alternative oil filter high flow rate performance "stp". It was my best option. I was thinking, once I got it running and filtered the first or two of oil "flushing out" the system I would throw it away and get the recommended size. It matches thread, size, and just with a faster flow rate. I'm running a budget build on this though I got it free I didn't want to sink hundreds of dollars to use it the first time...a hundred or so over time is different. I do want to go all out on it but my family supporters, are not supporting! Ha

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 I do want to go all out on it but my family supporters, are not supporting! Ha

 

They will come to terms with it over time (or at least just figure out how to ignore it better) :laughing-rolling:

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I contemplated trying to pour more oil into the hydro now that it's all connected and bypassing the hydraulic implements. But man it is way too cold!! 24f with not even a light for heat! Way to cold, so I stoked the fire place and cracked open a bottle of home brew hmmm 2yr port!!!

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