psalms83:18 174 #1 Posted November 20, 2014 Yeah I'm kinda crazy.... But first off how come nobody really talks about the alternator?.. Many discussions about RR and the rectifier things.. I went back a little ways down the list. Does the alternators rarely get issues?? I got a c175 and I'm not getting any electricity after I disconnect the jumper cables. It will run forever with them connected! So I was thinking alternator but everyone else seems to talk more about rectifiers and other things?? How many of you out there have fixed this problem with a new or just reconditioned your rectifier or RR??? Secondly since I'm not getting any electricity being produced,,,, and I already wanted to make a "" rig ""for a secondary electrical system"" can I hook up a car sized alternator to the system and what kind of amp/volt issues can I easily solve with the addition of other easily obtainable parts??? My project was to get a car alternator a second or large truck battery ...run the alternator off the pto to charge the battery and run about 4 headlights,,forward and facing backward....with possibly a winch and or a ac converter for standard wall outlet style tools power tools and lights!,,,!! Can this setup be "rigged up" and should I keep it separate from the existing system or can I connect it all as one electrical setup??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #2 Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) The ignition system relies on a battery to keep the coil energized. It will not continue to run if you do not have a good battery in the system. If it were a magneto ignition, you could run without a battery. It has to be a GOOD battery, a marginal battery will not last long and will likely take a large toll on your electrical components. Troubleshooting: If you put a KNOWN GOOD battery in there and it does not keep running, it is not the fault of your charging system. A tractor can generally run for many hours (and sometimes days) on a freshly charged battery. The "alternators" rarely go bad. There are coils under the flywheel and magnets embedded in the flywheel, cant get much simpler. It generates about 40vac. The rectifier regulator turns that into a DC voltage to run accessories and charge the battery. Accessories: If you wanted to rig up an alternator you can, but the challenge to find a place to put it, run a belt to it (it would have to be the drive belt) and keep the PTO functional is quite a task. People rarely run enough electrical stuff to exceed the tractors 15 or 20amp charging system... There are LED lights that are better than their halogen counterparts and take a much lower toll on the electrical system. People do run small winches but generally -if you use a decent battery- the tractors electrical system will be able to catch up in between actual uses. It will take a toll on it though. If you put an actual alternator on, DEFINITELY keep it as its own separate system. You dont want to be chasing down electrical gremlins with that mess. People have rigged up 110V generators off of the PTO (there was even a rare factory option for this) to run equipment in the field. I would recommend going this way because it is much less efficient to use an inverter unless you are just running small things. Oh and I would also not recommend hammering on things to make them work... much to the contrary horses generally DONT like that unless you are bending something BACK into shape. Edited November 20, 2014 by bmsgaffer 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #3 Posted November 20, 2014 Hammering was a poke at the recent work I had been doing on it!,! Reshaping the hood the blower chute and a bar underneath!! And the old way of fixing things "just kick it!!" With the alternator separate is the ground ok to be grounded with the rest of the machine and just leave positive separate?? That didn't make cense even as I was saying it sorry!! LoL it's quite early at this moment! Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #4 Posted November 20, 2014 but it does make cense as the coil on the altenator would need the electricity to begin with to create the poles for the magnets??? Wait it seems right when i think it but doesnt sound right when i say it?? The altenator needs electricity to run itself to produce more electricity?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #5 Posted November 20, 2014 sorry for being so ... last electrical class i took was in high school... so now im just trying to keep up! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,928 #6 Posted November 20, 2014 The charging system is AC not DC. That is why you need a good battery, to run the DC needed to power the regulator so it works, then you will have DC being produced to run everything else including the coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,116 #7 Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) If you want a huge electrical system think about the old Starter generators. Mount an alternator on the flywheel side of the motor. Many Kohlers used by other companies (Bolens.Deere etc) had PTO bolted on the flywheel. You could probably rig a pulley on that and then run a belt to your alternator. Get a 10si internally regulated one and you could have a 55 amp or bigger system. I think I would just bypass your original system and not try to mix them. (You will have to maintain your existing starter motor) Edited November 21, 2014 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #8 Posted November 21, 2014 Pfrederi. Any name of product I could search for...or any pics?? I can search myself ...I probably gonna dig a little. But if you knew of something in perticular I do like the sounds of that! Why do you think I should put a pulley on the flywheel and run it off that side and not on the other side with all the belts?..?? Could you explain this part with a little more info:: """Get a 10si internally regulated one and you could have a 55 amp or bigger system."" .......thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #9 Posted November 21, 2014 Get your tractor running and moving first then we will talk alternators. If you look at the setup on the older models (early 60's) they have a "starter generator" which both started the engine and created the power instead of having two separate systems like we do now. You will have a hard time finding a pulley an alternator that will fit our 5/8" drive belts and you dont want to run it off the PTO bell or you will have to have the PTO on constantly (which will not allow the tractor to start or continue to run if you leave the seat assuming all your safety switches work) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,116 #10 Posted November 23, 2014 Pfrederi. Any name of product I could search for...or any pics?? I can search myself ...I probably gonna dig a little. But if you knew of something in perticular I do like the sounds of that! Why do you think I should put a pulley on the flywheel and run it off that side and not on the other side with all the belts?..?? Could you explain this part with a little more info:: """Get a 10si internally regulated one and you could have a 55 amp or bigger system."" .......thanks Gaffers answer about the PTO explains why that is a bad idea to use that side. Picture of a Starter generator set up. ..10si is a model of a Delco internally regulated alternator that was used on every GM product from the 60s to the 80s (at least) and are cheap. They came in various amperages 35 and up, I think 100 was available but am not sure. They are bigger in diameter than a generator and that may require some tweaking. Nippondenso makes a skinnier alternator series but they are more pricey. Get your tractor running and moving first then we will talk alternators. If you look at the setup on the older models (early 60's) they have a "starter generator" which both started the engine and created the power instead of having two separate systems like we do now. You will have a hard time finding a pulley an alternator that will fit our 5/8" drive belts and you dont want to run it off the PTO bell or you will have to have the PTO on constantly (which will not allow the tractor to start or continue to run if you leave the seat assuming all your safety switches work) Actually any starter generator shop can fix you up with a 5/8" pulley. I had an alternator on my Case DC for several years and she had 5/8" fan pulleys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #11 Posted November 24, 2014 Sorry the tractors running...sounds like a hummingbird!!! On jet fuel She hummmms nicely. Got the belt 1/2" by the way...I see u guys mentioning 5/8. But what was on it was a worn less than 1/2 and that's gonna have to do for now....sorry. I'll keep an eye out for the proper size next time I go out. And new oil filter and oil and tomorrow is the big day! I do think I have only sat on it once so far! I did a crash coarse in generator starters.....sounds do'able But I also seen some tractor generators!! I think I'm gonna rig up a portable generator of sorts. With a battery bank. Comin off the pto so I only need to spin it when it needs the recharge.!.,.?!? Sounds plausible! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #12 Posted November 24, 2014 Got the belt 1/2" by the way...I see u guys mentioning 5/8. But what was on it was a worn less than 1/2 and that's gonna have to do for now....sorry. I'll keep an eye out for the proper size next time I go out. I saw your wanted ad, but just wanted to note that using a 1/2" drive belt could MOST DEFINITELY cause slipping especially under load... May attribute to the movement problems you noted in your other thread... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #13 Posted November 24, 2014 its not moving when not under load also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
