Hodge71 663 #26 Posted November 20, 2014 Hydro refers to the transmission. There were 2 types in Wheel Horses 4 speed/ 8 speed manuals and hydraulic driven, also known as "Hydro" or "Automatic" depending on the year of the tractor. Now for the bad news..... If it moves when in the air but not on the ground, I regret to inform you that your hydro is very possibly dead. It is also probably the most expensive thing to repair/ replace on a horse. They don't make them any longer, they don't make parts for them and it may take a few tries until you find a good used one unless somebody on here has one. We pride ourselves on this site about not "screwing" our Horse family. I ended up buying 4 complete "good" "working" pumps on ebay before I was able to get enough parts together and make 1 solid unit for my 1973 18 Automatic. And that only came after buying a 5th unit from Kelly Hollister on here. Hope your luck is better than mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #27 Posted November 20, 2014 You could have two different types of hydro on that tractor. Some units came with a Sundstrand (the hydro filter will be facing the right side of the tractor when viewed from behind) and some came with an Eaton 1100 (filter facing the rear of the tractor on the left side when viewed from behind). The eaton 1100 is still made today and can be serviced by a hydraulic shop (though its probably cheaper to find a decent working unit). But before you go looking for a new unit I think you should just check and adjust all linkages and make sure they are tight. We have manuals on both in the manual section. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,928 #28 Posted November 20, 2014 First and foremost check to make sure the fluid is not low. Fixed a couple of mine by just adding fluid. Also if it looks or smells bad change the fluid and filter before doing anything else besides checking the linkage to make sure it moves like Brandon said above. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #29 Posted November 20, 2014 Welcome! I am just going to throw this out there since your new to this. For a hydro you need to be running at full throttle to build enough pressure for the hydro motor. On jackstands it might spin just fine but with the weight of the tractor, it will dog it down and seem under power at idle. So try it next time at wide open throttle. I had some that where just a little stiff from sitting. New oil , filter and getting it good and hot got me up and going again! So remember, wide open throttle when driving/using the hydro trans. Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #30 Posted November 20, 2014 And to add to what Kyle said, let her run at full throttle for a minute or two (making sure you have plenty of oil like Geno said! 10W-30 standard motor oil in the transmission) before driving it around. Sometimes these units take a minute to build pressure especially if its been sitting for years! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #31 Posted November 21, 2014 Thanks hodge71 but I think at the moment I'm gonna have to go with bmsgaffer and geno!! Gotta stay positive at the moment!...today I got a small car battery hooked up in it...reassembled the hydraulics linkage that was bent....cleaned up shop a little and looked for a new belt....think I'm gonna have to buy new belt and oil filter tomorrow. Tires seem to be holding....ooh and I been doin a lot of reading through the eaton 1100 hydrostatic manual. Hmmmmm one of the tests it recommended was to roll the tractor and the wheels should lock up on their own if u had a good condition rear end?!?!? Anybody can callobarate this?? Does it need to reach a certain speed then lock up? Or does it need to be in gear (in forward position) while rolling forward then it locks up?? Cause I had it in neutral while movin it around and it rolled good with no noise or much any bad friction.....granted I moved about 10' and then back again....but it didn't lock up?? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorsekid 141 #32 Posted November 21, 2014 Does anyone know if the eaton and substrand can be interchanged? What happens when your hydro is gone and no more parts to replace? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #33 Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) I think you can change a sundstrand over to an eaton on the C series but not without a lot of fuss. All of the linkages, valves, hoses and whole rear end have to be changed. The "push to lock up" test has been debated. If it has not been running for a long time (like yours) the consensus is that the lock up test will NOT work. However, you should not push it or let it roll faster than a slow walking pace as it will damage the transmission. I think this has been mentioned before but change engine oil and tranny oil before a long run and hopefully she will run good! Edited November 21, 2014 by bmsgaffer 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #34 Posted November 22, 2014 i can tell you from experience that the eaton 1100 will roll easy if it has not been run for awhile the shorter the time since run last the harder to push. run 1 out of gas and you can't push it at all with out the wheels locking up. good luck eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #35 Posted November 24, 2014 (edited) Hmmmm check out this original wheel horse belt for the blower and original oil filter!!!??! Here's with the hood straightened out and back on Edited November 24, 2014 by psalms83:18 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #36 Posted December 9, 2014 (edited) latest info is in a thread titled eaton hydro 1100 .... thats been my constant issues so far I will be back to this soon! Edited December 9, 2014 by psalms83:18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 7,811 #37 Posted December 9, 2014 Is the tow/push valve closed? It's located under the fender you need a 5/16 wrench to close it. Did someone mention this earlier? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #39 Posted December 10, 2014 This is an Eaton 1100. I am not aware of a tow valve on an Eaton. Sunstrand, yes. Did they have tow valves on older model eatons? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #40 Posted December 10, 2014 (edited) I don't remember seeing anything of the sorts in the manuals but I will do some digging and find out! Yup seems that's only on sunstrands.... I did see some diagrams for sunstrands, man they seem much more complicated with more internals! Edited December 10, 2014 by psalms83:18 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #41 Posted December 14, 2014 (edited) Whooo hoooo this tractors is a blast!! i made it to the for the winter. In the spring i plan to strip down and make everything shine! And from my research a good oill filter turned out to be a "pure one" cause it has no bypass valve and some of the best filter media, though not many filters have the 10 micron rating suggested by the manual mobil 1 and ams are better micron but have bypass valves. Edited December 14, 2014 by psalms83:18 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #42 Posted December 16, 2014 Oil filter...check Hydro oil....mobile 1.....check Engine oil...wow that was black!....check Grease gun to fittings....check Tire pressures...check Tire chains....check Belts...check I think I'm ready for the snow?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmsgaffer 2,043 #43 Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) Plow? Awesome! Glad to hear you got it going! Edit: i see you have a snow blower. Check all the bearings are smooth, oil the chain up, check chain tension. You will be good to go! Edited December 16, 2014 by bmsgaffer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #44 Posted December 16, 2014 I greased the one fitting I found on the snowblower chain side!.? .? While it was spinning I threw grease on the chain and coated all that faily well. As for the bearings I didn't take anything apart but I don't think any of them are loose by hand ?? How do I tighten the chain? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #45 Posted December 16, 2014 Here's some extra pics of my messy workplace,,, time to clean it all up! I bet some of you are wondering how I even work in there !! And the nail hole in my draw line to the hydro! That's about it for leftover pics... Boy it felt so good to sit in it for the "first" time! Wish I had a pic of it. ....ehhhh no one would know it wasn't the first time pic!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487 #46 Posted December 16, 2014 On the side of the snowblower where the chain is. There is a small sproket that bolts right through the side of the auger box. Loosen the bolt and it will slide, get it tight with some play in the chain. So the chain is not real droopy. The manufacturer does not want the chain tight like a guitar string. Remember, leave s o m e play in it. I just adjusted mine. Its easy. If you make it to tight you put to much stress on the bearings and will burn them out. Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #47 Posted December 17, 2014 I'm looking for ideas on storage "rack" on the back of the tractor similar to a four wheeler. Anyone have any pics for or against? Was thinking maybe some larger implements might not fit on afterward?? But the "pan" or the "rack" would be kinda high from the hitch point!? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
posifour11 723 #48 Posted December 17, 2014 http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/132-rupprechts-welding-and-fab-the-hitch-guys/ These hitches are great. I've been thinking of one of the racks from harbor freight that would slide right in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #49 Posted December 17, 2014 Those look good...I could do with one of those,, and it seems my four wheeler style rack would have plenty of room above it also!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
psalms83:18 174 #50 Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) A couple of recent improvements I had to move the original exhaust cause the new led light housing is plastic, and an inch away!! And a new wire for the chute means I don't have to get off the machine and turn it by hand every minute and get sprayed In The face when the wind turns! She definitely drives and runs extremely well. I love it and currently searching for cheap attachments and any D models. But I do still need to fix the auger engagement lever, it pops back up when I hit a bump! And the hydro lever isn't tight enough or adjusted, it drifts back to neutral. Edited January 11, 2015 by psalms83:18 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
