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buckrancher

RS83 SENIOR RESURRECTION or help I'm having a senior moment

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stevebo

I am so happy I do not have to do this with mine. :banana-tux:  Keep up the good work!!

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cstempert

Ok Brian and Dan.

I've slept on it and regarding the welded on gear. I'm guessing now, but the gear wouldn't be welded on from the get go because you can't change the bearing.

In a pass car or light truck with torque tube drive ( this trans) the o/p shaft is -6 splined and mates with a u-joint The joint slips on the spline, and a bolt and heavy washer and screw into the female thread in the end of the main shaft. This preloads the bearing inner race against the shoulder on the shaft and prevents fore and aft movement

On our app the u joint is removed and a gear is installed in the secondary reduction box. This gear is pretty small and to mount to the main shaft directly from ford would have to have the -6 spline This I'm sure made it week as the root of the gear tooth and top corner of the spline would be a very thin area with two close corners.

I bet MANY cracked from shock loads and the farmer fix was to get a replacement standard plain bore gear with a round bore.

I sell gears and to get a splined gear like that is not cheap nor available as standard

Easiest way to install that is to bore to spline OD and weld it on.

Yes WH could have done this too but to make something that unserviceable at that time ...

I'm contemplating rebuilding mine still because it's clean and the bearings feel fine.

I may though so we should all come up with a plan to rectify this issue

Maybe turning down the main shaft spline to round the gear thickness and milling a keyway. Then using a standard gear with key and re-using the bolt/ washer? Need to check depth in under drive box first

This would weaken the main shaft, but the gear will be stronger

Getting a splined gear is doable but expensive. We could buy 5 to make them cheaper.

how many Sr. We got out there?

Edited by cstempert
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dovetail53

Cst,  this is the gear welded to my tranny.  I believe it was done by the Ponds during original assembly. IMO, it looks like Brians may have been disassembled at some time to replace the bearing ??? then re-welded.

 again, only my opinion.

post-6671-0-15822400-1418415504_thumb.jp

Edited by dovetail53
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buckrancher

here's all the parts

post-591-0-03249300-1418423877_thumb.jpg post-591-0-70639300-1418423986_thumb.jpg

 

post-591-0-29666000-1418424056_thumb.jpgpost-591-0-67195700-1418424120_thumb.jpg

 

post-591-0-91116300-1418424187_thumb.jpgpost-591-0-13542300-1418424251_thumb.jpg

 

post-591-0-17692000-1418424336_thumb.jpg

 

here's what is left of the balls and springs

post-591-0-16622800-1418424435_thumb.jpg

 

I need to find out what the bore ID is stock on the input shaft and the OD of the output shaft for the caged roller bearing these are very loose fit together

 

Brian

 

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cstempert

Cst, this is the gear welded to my tranny. I believe it was done by the Ponds during original assembly. IMO, it looks like Brians may have been disassembled at some time to replace the bearing ??? then re-welded.

again, only my opinion.

Dan

Quite possible it was done that way for WH / Pond. Unusual but possible

post-13583-141842459921_thumb.jpg

here's my pinion.

What bothers me more is what's controlling fore and aft movement of the mainshaft. The bearing looks to be held between the 2 gear cases by the retaining ring on it, but the splined shaft is a slip fit in the bearing bore.

It can go back until the helical cut spline shoulder contacts the bearing and can slide forward toward the synchro rings like brian showed

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buckrancher

Cst,  this is the gear welded to my tranny.  I believe it was done by the Ponds during original assembly. IMO, it looks like Brians may have been disassembled at some time to replace the bearing ??? then re-welded.

 again, only my opinion.

I can believe this. I just can'nt get my head around the fact that they did not put a spacer between the gear and bearing to pull the output shaft all the way against the bearing on the inside of the transmission

that is just wrong there's around .150 back and forth movement in the output shaft on mine

 

dovetail53 is there in and out movement of the output shaft on your transmission?

 

Brian

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cstempert

Brian

Looks like the earlier style synchros with 2 balls 1 spring and thicker slide gear. Later ones used 1 ball

Don't lose the round space on the mainshaft it sets endplay

There should be very little end play between counter gear and case

I just finished the 3-speed side loader today after discovering wrong parts and defective counter gear thrust washer( too thick )

Got those parts and reassembled it On those the u joint holds everything together

Re: spacer. I don't recall having much end play or a spacer. I just assembled everything but need to disassemble to re gasket. Ill be checking then

Edited by cstempert

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buckrancher

I'll go with my gear being rewelded back on I said someone had mine apart before and maybe they changed the bearing

sure looks like a bird pooped on it

post-591-0-96820300-1418425503_thumb.jpg

 

Brian

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cstempert

I'll go with my gear being rewelded back on I said someone had mine apart before and maybe they changed the bearing

sure looks like a bird pooped on it

attachicon.gif100_0496.JPG

Brian

Good news is you can grind it all off. Just a lil work is all

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buckrancher

I'll put in the bridgeport mill at work and use a carbide endmill :tools-hammerdrill:

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dovetail53

I can believe this. I just can'nt get my head around the fact that they did not put a spacer between the gear and bearing to pull the output shaft all the way against the bearing on the inside of the transmission

that is just wrong there's around .150 back and forth movement in the output shaft on mine

 

dovetail53 is there in and out movement of the output shaft on your transmission?

 

Brian

   Brian,   I have about 3/16" movement in and out, from the bearing to the final gear on the output shaft. doesn't matter if i'm in neutral or any of the gears.

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dovetail53

here's something interesting.... Brians gear cluster has all beveled gears. mine has beveled and straight.  

 

 post-6671-0-28302800-1418428992_thumb.jp

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cstempert

here's something interesting.... Brians gear cluster has all beveled gears. mine has beveled and straight.

attachicon.gifsenior trans 001.JPG

The earlier three speeds (32-35) had spur cut low and reverse gear. Your mainshaft should have straight splined, later are helical cut

Yours is obviously an early one and Brian and I have later 36-39

Edited by cstempert

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cstempert
post-13583-141843157171_thumb.jpg

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WheelHorse79

I read in "Straight from the Horses mouth" that the seniors had Ford model V-8 transmissions.  Since they are synchromesh as your pictures show, does that mean they can be shifted "on the fly" like a car?  :)  I've never driven a geared tractor with a synchro transmission, must be fun!  Just curious...

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cstempert

I read in "Straight from the Horses mouth" that the seniors had Ford model V-8 transmissions. Since they are synchromesh as your pictures show, does that mean they can be shifted "on the fly" like a car? :) I've never driven a geared tractor with a synchro transmission, must be fun! Just curious...

Theoretically yes. But the steep shifter and fragile under drive make that a risky prospect

I have double clutched my 416-8 tho!

Edited by cstempert

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stevebo

I will not try to shift on the fly with my SR. I can and do however shift on the fly with my D250.

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buckrancher

front bearing cover you can see the seal is damaged

post-591-0-86507100-1418493184_thumb.jpg

 

brian

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Zeek

MY STEERING WHEEL IS GARBAGE :banghead:

 

attachicon.gif100_0417.JPG

 

First thing I did was use a tapered 3/4" pipe tap reamer to remove the splines then I made a small fixture and tapered broach guide for a 3/16" broach to cut a new key way

attachicon.gif100_0299.JPGattachicon.gif100_0298.JPG

 

 

Brian

 

You lucky dog . . . I can't believe you found an exact match for that wheel  :eek:   Can't wait to see the progress of the project!

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cstempert

Brian and Dan

Looking again we each have a different trans

Dan your is earliest - straight cut rev/low and straight spline for it ...1932 (B-7061 )

Brian, your has heli cut rev/low gear and 6 spline Heli cut spline for the rev/low which looks to be 1936 only (68-7061A)

Mine has a Heli cut 16 spline for rev/low.. 36-39 (68-7061B )

Goes to show beggers can't be choosers when they were building them

I'd love to know if the secondary reduction box was a standard item or custom cast for them.

I have a 10:1 reduction in my Toro Bullet that bolts to the rear of the T-9 crash-box. That was custom for Toro

Edited by cstempert

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buckrancher

Chis you would happen to know what the pitch and degree angle is on the welded on gear? I want to change mine

 

Brian

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cstempert

Chis you would happen to know what the pitch and degree angle is on the welded on gear? I want to change mine

Brian

Brian

I don't off the top of my head I have a pitch gauge I can mail you

I guess it's probably 8 or 10 DP but pressure angle is important it could be 14 1/2 ° or 20°

Actually if you give me the tooth count face width and as accurate OD as possible I can figure it out from the catalog

Edited by cstempert

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cstempert

Or do the math

Search out determining pitch diameter

Good news is it looks like a standard gear set

From what I remember it was around 2-3"dia and I can see its 16 tooth

14 1/2° pa. 20° pa

16t 6DP = 3.00" od. F= 1.5". 2.0"

16 t 8D.P = 2.25"od. F= 1.25". 1.5"

16t 10DP = 1.8" od. F=. 1.0". 1.25"

The above are standard AGMA industrial gear sizes Bores are typically plain bore for machining PA must match mating gear.

Edited by cstempert

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buckrancher

just showing a picture of the gear removed from the shaft. Work has been slow as I am purchasing transmission parts

post-591-0-99667300-1425132368_thumb.jpg

 

post-591-0-21115800-1425132405_thumb.jpg

 

 

Brian

Edited by buckrancher
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buckrancher

I mentioned in a earlier post that I had bought the pipe I needed to build a new front axle well here she is

post-591-0-95790100-1425522382_thumb.jpg

 

post-591-0-88442300-1425522332_thumb.jpg

 

also got my e-tank ready to go

post-591-0-36568700-1425522442_thumb.jpg

all I need now is water and washing soda

post-591-0-00463800-1425522476_thumb.jpg

 

 

Brian

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